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Generation III Internal Engine
1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:10 PM   #1
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Default Tips and Tricks during a rebuild - LS1


I am rebuilding my stock LS1 for a swap into a Buick Regal.

Plan in process:

Hot tank block,
re-hone cylinders,
replace cam bearings,
machine heads,
replace valve springs with LS6,
Replace oil pan with CTS-V,
Replace all Bearings (rods, mains)
Replace all Piston Rings,
Replace Lifters with stock,
Replace cam with Howards (0.551 int./0.551 exh.)



Looking for the tips and tricks during rebuilds....like the joining the holes in the cam plate.

Please, if you have a link let me know. I know that there isnt a "searchable" word to get all the tips and tricks. You, know the little things that might not do anything.
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:38 PM   #2
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I'm in the same process. I ordered a new barbell plug and removed the other plugs before the hot tank clean. Be sure to mark all rods/pistons well for the cylinder they come from. I had the machine shop put my cam bearings in and it was $60 including the bearings. Those are tricky to get in and out without damaging or getting misaligned so I let them. Might wanna let them hot tank your rotating assembly as well because I spent hours cleaning mine and they will hot tank them for cheap. I purchased new rod bolts. Despite the mixed opinions the main bolts are angle torqued not torque to yield and can be reused a few times if your on a budget. I also went with stock replacement head bolts instead of arp and saved about $150. (stock replacements were $50). That's about as far as I am for now so I'm still looking for tips as well.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:06 PM   #3
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Tip #1: post in correct section.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:11 PM   #4
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Tip #1: post in correct section.
Dick lol
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:34 PM   #5
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Wonder how many of that guys 6700 posts call for a swift kick in the nuts?
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:38 PM   #6
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Ls1 is a gen3 engine. Belongs in gen3 section.

More answers to this particular question in there.
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:59 PM   #7
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All you need is a Good LS1 rebuild manual and take your time. Rebuilding an engine cost too much money to go into it blind or take short cuts
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:45 AM   #8
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Dont forget to put the oil gallery plugs back in or you will have.little or no oil pressure and a 5hr job to put them back in.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:15 PM   #9
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Dont forget to put the oil gallery plugs back in or you will have.little or no oil pressure and a 5hr job to put them back in.
..and pump oil out all over your alternator. Don't ask me how I know.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:25 PM   #10
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Is this not the right area?

Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6


I thought that is where I posted? I hate being that guy that posts in the wrong area.

I am sorry everyone.....I thought I did it right?
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:57 AM   #11
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You're in the correct forum ,,,,,,see what's his names glasses ,,,,,,,,that explains it all ,,,,,,,,,sorry ,,,,,I'm horrible with names ,,,,,,,,surprised I remember My own name sometimes ,,,,,,,,,,,,Lol kidding ,,,,,,,,but this is gen3 internal engine so You're good to go
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In the life of the average auto engine , the crank revolutes roughly 450,000,000 times before the engine shows significant wear .
At 6000 rpm's the pistons of an LS based engine with the stock stroke of 3.622" are only moving at 37.5 mph !
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:07 AM   #12
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If You really want piece of mind ,,,,,,,invest in a Melling 10295 oil pump unless really high hp like above 600 rwhp ,,,,then 10296 ,,,,and an 05 corvette LS2 timing set ,,,,,,,just make sure You do everything like the book You're going to buy says to like bearing clearances and make sure the machine shop bores the block to the correct specs if You're going with oversized pistons ,,,,,,,,have block vatted or be very meticulous if You clean it Yourself . Not sure if it's the rear or the front cover or maybe both ,,,,,but You can bore out the oil cross over galley we'll call it ,,,,,,just don't make it too much larger . Either buy head gaskets like .041" cometics so You end up with .035 - .040" quench ,,,,,,,,will help with pre-ignition ,,,,,,,,,if You're where it's hot ,,,,,,,buy a larger radiator ,,,,even if You have to do a little material removal/ fabrication so it will fit .
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In the life of the average auto engine , the crank revolutes roughly 450,000,000 times before the engine shows significant wear .
At 6000 rpm's the pistons of an LS based engine with the stock stroke of 3.622" are only moving at 37.5 mph !
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:29 AM   #13
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It's in the correct place now after being moved...
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:43 AM   #14
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The LS6 springs will be on the marginal side with that cam. I would use Comp 918 springs or their equivilant. Also what does "machine heads" mean? Port and polish and a valve job or just having the heads cleaned and assembled and the valves springs checked for proper hight and pressure? I reccomend a good valve job at the very minimum as the increased flow at low lift and better sealing will gain you probably 15 HP.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickDenali View Post
Wonder how many of that guys 6700 posts call for a swift kick in the nuts?
He's actually a valued member who has assisted many. May want to post more than 45 times before attacking people who have spent years contributing to the success of this site.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GP4U2NV View Post

I am rebuilding my stock LS1 for a swap into a Buick Regal.

Plan in process:

Hot tank block,
re-hone cylinders,
replace cam bearings,
machine heads,
replace valve springs with LS6,
Replace oil pan with CTS-V,
Replace all Bearings (rods, mains)
Replace all Piston Rings,
Replace Lifters with stock,
Replace cam with Howards (0.551 int./0.551 exh.)



Looking for the tips and tricks during rebuilds....like the joining the holes in the cam plate.

Please, if you have a link let me know. I know that there isnt a "searchable" word to get all the tips and tricks. You, know the little things that might not do anything.

-No need to upgrade the oil pump. Just put a new spring in the stock pump & smooth any rough edges in flow area. They're gear pumps. Only part that I've heard of failing are the springs & that's only 'cuz they're hardened. High volume oil pumps can un-necessarily empty the oil pan early.

-Use coated cam bearings. Cam bearings are more subject to dry start wear & using coated bearings helps. No need to use coated bearings anywhere else.

-Saw LS2 timing chain mentioned & is a great upgrade. Add the LS2 dampener, as well. May have to drill & tap front of block to accommodate & will have to modify the dampener for the bolt pattern if it is already there. Some blocks have the holes & most LS1 blocks don't.

-Mamo actually puts a groove in the oil gallery barbell plug on the half of the plug that is without one. May or may not want to do it. You'd have to machine your own "o"-ring groove in it in order to hold this additional "o"-ring in place.

-Hardened pushrods if not done already.

-Add holes to lifter cups, bottom side. Allows oil in cup to drain to pan sooner than when having to completely fill cup before it can overflow to pan. 50/50 on this one. Definitely helps on road course. Kinda pointless for street/strip.

-Would say adjustable timing set, but, is optional. That's a tiny cam & using the adjustable timing set to degree it would certainly dial it in, but, not worth the cost, IMO. If it were a larger more aggressive cam, I'd say for sure use an adjustable timing set.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
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The LS6 springs will be on the marginal side with that cam. I would use Comp 918 springs or their equivilant. Also what does "machine heads" mean? Port and polish and a valve job or just having the heads cleaned and assembled and the valves springs checked for proper hight and pressure? I reccomend a good valve job at the very minimum as the increased flow at low lift and better sealing will gain you probably 15 HP.
I had the heads milled, and valve job with a cleaning. No port and polish, I did some port work before they went.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
All you need is a Good LS1 rebuild manual and take your time. Rebuilding an engine cost too much money to go into it blind or take short cuts
I know there are a couple different books on rebuilding ls1 engines out there. Is one recommended over the other? Any specific reason?
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:47 PM   #18
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no idea why people are posting up LS2 2005 timing chain?? LS1/2/3/6/7 chains are the same "made in France" chains that GM has 'updated' the PN to.........same chain(verify it with your GM parts person)

sprockets are different depending on cam sensor p/u location and year...and 3 bolt vs single cams


Same thing with the "LS7" lifters, 17122490 is the SAME part number used in 100,000's of cars/trucks built every year by GM(besides the DOD motors), LS1/2/3/4/6/7/9 all get the same lifter........just use the 12499225 pn (GMPP catalog) to get the $130 price


I can tell you it's simple to pull the rods/crank out of the block and install them.........the machining/balancing/measuring is NOT simple.....and rarely posted here.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:48 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GP4U2NV View Post
Is this not the right area?

Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6


I thought that is where I posted? I hate being that guy that posts in the wrong area.

I am sorry everyone.....I thought I did it right?
I wouldnt worry about it. The world is not over even no people act like it is. Im pretty sure no one was hurt. Theirs more important things in life then worrying if someone posted in the wrong section.. well to some people.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:05 AM   #20
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The only people who will be hurt are the people looking for information in the wrong section, or the people looking in the right section and have to sift thru the irrelevant **** to find what they are looking for. Kinda like looking for clothes in your closet after your wife "cleans" it out and "organizes" it.

It's sad that our moderators have to act like mothers and pick up after children.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:05 AM
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