Cam install HELP!
08-20-2012, 10:42 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boston
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cam install HELP! Hey guys I need some help if anyone wants to throw me some experienced knowledge / tips.
Im following the LS1HowTo for heads and cam and ran into a snag....
I installed the cam Dot to Dot and continued on step by step, untill I got the heads on it was going great. I installed one intake and one exhaust rocker with the pushrods and torqued it down. Then I attemped to spin the motor via the crank bolt with a ratchet.
Problem: The motor will only spin so far then it seems locked once i see the two valve springs start to compress.
Does this mean the timing is off? (Valve hitting the piston?)
I even took the chain off and re aligned dot to dot and its still doing the same thing. I dont want to force the motor over by hand if the valve is hitting the piston..
Mods:
tsp 224 symmetrical cam, 7.400 push rods, ls6 ported oil pump, stock 241 heads with PAC single behive springs, Comp Trunion upgrade, SLP under drive pulley
PLEASE HELP
_matt
Im following the LS1HowTo for heads and cam and ran into a snag....
I installed the cam Dot to Dot and continued on step by step, untill I got the heads on it was going great. I installed one intake and one exhaust rocker with the pushrods and torqued it down. Then I attemped to spin the motor via the crank bolt with a ratchet.
Problem: The motor will only spin so far then it seems locked once i see the two valve springs start to compress.
Does this mean the timing is off? (Valve hitting the piston?)
I even took the chain off and re aligned dot to dot and its still doing the same thing. I dont want to force the motor over by hand if the valve is hitting the piston..
Mods:
tsp 224 symmetrical cam, 7.400 push rods, ls6 ported oil pump, stock 241 heads with PAC single behive springs, Comp Trunion upgrade, SLP under drive pulley
PLEASE HELP
_matt
08-20-2012, 11:44 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tampa-ish
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't installed a cam in a LS1, but I've read quite a few times on here that some cams don't always line up properly dot to dot and you need to degree them.
Maybe you can find a degree wheel and do it like that.
Like I said though, I'm no pro, I just do a lot of reading.
Maybe you can find a degree wheel and do it like that.
Like I said though, I'm no pro, I just do a lot of reading.
08-21-2012, 12:56 AM
#4
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Texas and Qatar
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You should not have PtoV issues with that setup. It is always good to check, but on a proven "fitting" setup, you should not have any issues.
Couple of ideas. The cam thrust plate, did you use the existing bolts, are you sure the correct bolts are in place? The lowest cam thrust plate bolt MUST be the same length as stock (20mm length), or the bolt will hit the crankshaft and lock down the crank as it spin over. It is common to see people incorrectly install the wrong bolt, usually an old timing gear bolt (which is 24mm length) instead of the correct one.
When both valves are open on cylinder #1, you are close to overlap, which is when both timing alignment marks are together. Is it making one full revolution and stopping near that spot, or is it another area?
You are using the rocker pedestals correct? I've seen some ppl forget to reinstall them. (do this long enough and you see everything!)
Lastly... and this wouldn't make much of a difference in your current situation, but did you check pushrod length? Some 224 and 228 grinds I've had to use a 7.350" pushrod as the 7.400" was just a bit too long for preload. It varies per cam/engine/heads/etc, so it is best to check the setup on YOUR engine and not some forum math calculation.
If I come up with anything else I will post again. It might help to see the timing chain marks at the interference point. I can compare to other engines and see where that issue is happening and maybe isolate it better.
Couple of ideas. The cam thrust plate, did you use the existing bolts, are you sure the correct bolts are in place? The lowest cam thrust plate bolt MUST be the same length as stock (20mm length), or the bolt will hit the crankshaft and lock down the crank as it spin over. It is common to see people incorrectly install the wrong bolt, usually an old timing gear bolt (which is 24mm length) instead of the correct one.
When both valves are open on cylinder #1, you are close to overlap, which is when both timing alignment marks are together. Is it making one full revolution and stopping near that spot, or is it another area?
You are using the rocker pedestals correct? I've seen some ppl forget to reinstall them. (do this long enough and you see everything!)
Lastly... and this wouldn't make much of a difference in your current situation, but did you check pushrod length? Some 224 and 228 grinds I've had to use a 7.350" pushrod as the 7.400" was just a bit too long for preload. It varies per cam/engine/heads/etc, so it is best to check the setup on YOUR engine and not some forum math calculation.
If I come up with anything else I will post again. It might help to see the timing chain marks at the interference point. I can compare to other engines and see where that issue is happening and maybe isolate it better.
08-21-2012, 01:59 PM
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boston
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You should not have PtoV issues with that setup. It is always good to check, but on a proven "fitting" setup, you should not have any issues.
Couple of ideas. The cam thrust plate, did you use the existing bolts, are you sure the correct bolts are in place? The lowest cam thrust plate bolt MUST be the same length as stock (20mm length), or the bolt will hit the crankshaft and lock down the crank as it spin over. It is common to see people incorrectly install the wrong bolt, usually an old timing gear bolt (which is 24mm length) instead of the correct one.
When both valves are open on cylinder #1, you are close to overlap, which is when both timing alignment marks are together. Is it making one full revolution and stopping near that spot, or is it another area?
You are using the rocker pedestals correct? I've seen some ppl forget to reinstall them. (do this long enough and you see everything!)
Lastly... and this wouldn't make much of a difference in your current situation, but did you check pushrod length? Some 224 and 228 grinds I've had to use a 7.350" pushrod as the 7.400" was just a bit too long for preload. It varies per cam/engine/heads/etc, so it is best to check the setup on YOUR engine and not some forum math calculation.
If I come up with anything else I will post again. It might help to see the timing chain marks at the interference point. I can compare to other engines and see where that issue is happening and maybe isolate it better.
Couple of ideas. The cam thrust plate, did you use the existing bolts, are you sure the correct bolts are in place? The lowest cam thrust plate bolt MUST be the same length as stock (20mm length), or the bolt will hit the crankshaft and lock down the crank as it spin over. It is common to see people incorrectly install the wrong bolt, usually an old timing gear bolt (which is 24mm length) instead of the correct one.
When both valves are open on cylinder #1, you are close to overlap, which is when both timing alignment marks are together. Is it making one full revolution and stopping near that spot, or is it another area?
You are using the rocker pedestals correct? I've seen some ppl forget to reinstall them. (do this long enough and you see everything!)
Lastly... and this wouldn't make much of a difference in your current situation, but did you check pushrod length? Some 224 and 228 grinds I've had to use a 7.350" pushrod as the 7.400" was just a bit too long for preload. It varies per cam/engine/heads/etc, so it is best to check the setup on YOUR engine and not some forum math calculation.
If I come up with anything else I will post again. It might help to see the timing chain marks at the interference point. I can compare to other engines and see where that issue is happening and maybe isolate it better.
I woke up last night / this morning at 3am and thought, ROCKET PEDESTALS! Completely forgot to put em in...spent too long in the garage haha.
Thanks for the info, ill report back if the problem is fixed or persists!
Trending Topics
08-21-2012, 10:35 PM
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boston
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Everything is all set, spins over by hand without any issues.
...guess I should lay off the brake cleaner
The mouting surface where the rocker pedestal sits is fine, rookie move on my part.
...guess I should lay off the brake cleaner
The mouting surface where the rocker pedestal sits is fine, rookie move on my part.
