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I don't think I will use an ARP Harmonic Damper Bolt again.

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Old 09-17-2012, 08:59 PM
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Exclamation I don't think I will use an ARP Harmonic Damper Bolt again.

I used an ARP harmonic damper bolt when I installed my new ATI harmonic damper. Yesterday I had to remove it in order to advance my camshaft. It did not want to come off. I actually had to go buy the biggest baddest 1/2 impact that Ingersol Rand makes and crack my air pressure up to 130 PSI. Still it took well over a minute before it broke loose. I never had these kind of problems with the factory bolt. So, I am going to go buy a GM bolt when I put it back together tomorrow.

Anyone else experience this?

Last edited by speedtigger; 09-18-2012 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Schpelling
Old 09-17-2012, 09:10 PM
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I've never had any issues with it not wanting to loosen, and I don't use a impact gun.
You didn't use Locktite did you?
Old 09-17-2012, 09:29 PM
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I wanna say on my old ls1 arp bolt it said to use their lubricant on the bolt threads. or at least im pretty sure it did anyway
Old 09-17-2012, 09:31 PM
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Used the ARP lube no problem.
Old 09-17-2012, 10:05 PM
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Same here no problems with arp...it's just as hard to loosen as the factory bolt lol...a little bit of heat helps (map gas not oxy/ac)
Old 09-18-2012, 03:50 AM
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Lube threads, head and washer during installation. Removal is no issue and no worse than the stock bolt.
Old 09-18-2012, 11:25 AM
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Did you use the bolt to install the balancer ???
Old 09-18-2012, 11:57 AM
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Lol..... What would you expect for a bolt that is torqued to 200+ftlbs
Old 09-18-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
I wanna say on my old ls1 arp bolt it said to use their lubricant on the bolt threads. or at least im pretty sure it did anyway
Originally Posted by cmac06
Used the ARP lube no problem.
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Lube threads, head and washer during installation. Removal is no issue and no worse than the stock bolt.
It was long enough ago that I could not remember if and what I put on the threads during installation, but when I inspected the bolt, it appeared to have a molly lube on the washer but not the threads. I am reluctant to re-install it, but I might (using the proper lube) and hope that solves the issue.
Old 09-18-2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
It was long enough ago that I could not remember if and what I put on the threads during installation, but when I inspected the bolt, it appeared to have a molly lube on the washer but not the threads. I am reluctant to re-install it, but I might (using the proper lube) and hope that solves the issue.
Issue? There are a lot more guys with the opposite problem who'd have been glad to have had your "problem"...
Old 09-18-2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Issue? There are a lot more guys with the opposite problem who'd have been glad to have had your "problem"...
Are people having them come loose or fall out?
Old 09-18-2012, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
Are people having them come loose or fall out?
I recall seeing 6 or 8 threads on it over the past few years. Most likely due to dirty threads, wrong lube, and/or incorrect torque. Even a few where peeps have broken an ARP bolt.
Old 09-18-2012, 10:18 PM
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Bet if u wouldve torched the bolt head for 3mins it wouldve zapped right out. Thats what i did when i removed the OEM bolt. That **** wouldnt budge!!
Old 09-20-2012, 10:43 PM
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I say put the ARP lube on it and reuse the bolt.

I don't understand how people have broken these crank bolts. I've had my balancer off like 4 times now and used an ARP style bolt on mine, and have been installing the SLP/Power Bond pulleys at work on new Camaro's and haven't had many issues. Even if you pull the pulley on with an installer tool just so the bolt has like 10 threads to catch you will be just fine. I always pull it on all the way but still.

/Rant lol
Old 09-22-2012, 10:35 PM
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I had new OEMs backout after proper proceedure install. Culprit radical cam with rough idle. The cam may have lead to engine mount failures and destroying an underdrive harmonic balancer. messed up the snout on the crank to cause a rebuild. ARP bolt waiting for its return from machine shop.
Old 09-23-2012, 01:17 PM
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I just torqued mine down yesterday. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, but with a 20" wratchet horizontally, and me standing inside the engine bay where the radiator was, I just acted like the wrench was a bar and did a dead-lift. I got at least 250ft lbs on it. No worries here.



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