Chevyboi09

Hey guys, I've just recently had my engine rebuilt with ALL new internals and I am running the same bolt-ons as well. I was wondering what the average break-in time is for a rebuilt LS1. The only aftermarket parts that I have are an MS3 cam w/dual valve spring kit and TSP hardened pushrods, i believe everthing else is stock. These were the only parts that i had purchased myself so I am at least 100% certain of those. Any ways, i was told that I had to break in my cam for at least 500 miles but, I am unsure as to how many miles I should break in the engine its self. Any advice is appreciated. If you need any other information just ask and I'll do my best to asnwer as well as I can. Thanks again guys

Chevyboi09

!!bump!!

arock24

iTrader: (4)

a lot of useful information in the search

https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php

Chevyboi09

Thanks man but i think the link is broken or something tho I'm not sure. It's saying "no results found"

arock24

iTrader: (4)

fixed.

You're not really breaking in the cam as much as you are breaking in the springs. Run them through a few heat cycles (some people say 300-500mi) and you'll be set. As far as the engine break in goes, basically you could throw in some conventional oil (thicker grade), change it @ 500 and 1000mi, then switch back to synthetic and drive it like you stole it

edit: some may not agree with running the conventional oil or think it's necessary but I don't see why it could hurt with all brand new internals. I personally would sleep a little better running thicker oil in there for the first 500-1000mi

Segond56

I just got my motor rebuilt as well from Phoenix Performance, they recommended 5 to 6 heat cycles with Castrol 10w 30 and then change the oil. Put new Castrol 10w 30 in for the first event I do then switch it over to Mobil 1 15w 50 after that. But after the 5 to 6 heat cycles we ran it all out on the Dyno. As long as the build was solid and clearances were correct there should be no problems. This is a topic that there will be a lot of opinions on. Hope this helps. Also you could use your own personal oil combinations.

1nasty86

iTrader: (63)

Same here.... heat cycled the motor 4-5 times, changed the oil and some wot pulls

ls1 1990 VN

A few heat cycles on the dyno when tuning, this will add a few miles, by the time tune is done you will be safe as to go WOT on the street.
Use a mineral oil only for 5000mls + if you have new bores & rings. only change to Syn when you are passed this point. glaze your bores and you will be stripping it again.

Chevyboi09

Alright everyon, thanks for the info. As far as new bores and rings go, Everything inside the engine is brand new so ill be sure to use the mineral oil. Any more info from ya'll is more than welcomed. It's been almost a solid 8 months that ive driven my baby and i wanna make sure i do everything right so i dont run in to the same problems again lol. The machine shop is done with the engine and now i just gotta get put back in the car alond with my freshly rebuilt trany

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Far as breakin the kicker is while a few heat cycles is good for springs before they are pushed hard the bores can seal better if pushed hard right away so there are valid arguments for a slow and gentle breaking and a drive it like you stole it breakin.

Ideally I think you would worry about the bores first because springs are a whole lot cheaper and easier to replace than it is to tear it down deglaze the bores and start over.

Chevyboi09

Alright so HEAT CYCLES... I'm new to all of this. Do i have to park the car in-between the 300-500 mile break-in period? I assume this is a "heat cycle"? As in I shoiuldnt drive it for that many miles straight? Say the 2 hour drive from my house to where i get my car tuned? And over how long of a period of time should i drive 500 miles at the earliest? Should it take at least 5 day or something or what? I'm not that knoledgeable in this subject obviously lol. just wanna make sure i dont mess anything up

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

This is a good question... I to was wondering if I needed to idle it at like 3500 rpms for 10-15 minutes or something at initial start-up...New to LS engines myself

Chevyboi09

Well, I have the MS3 cam and as far as THAT cam goes, TSP said to break it in, on the initial start after install, sun it between 2-3K RPMs for 30 minutes. I'm sure this process applies to most cams.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

"cam breakin" is for flat tappets.
IMO the only reason it is still recommended with roller cams is because if something is wrong with the assembly 2-3000rpm at no load is a lot less likely to destroy things than if you were seating the rings at 6000rpm on the road.

1nasty86

iTrader: (63)

we cranked mine up and let it rev at first start till it got up to operating temp and let it cool back down.... did the same thing again and then drove it a few miles down the road and back to the house to let it cool, drove the car another time to get some food and back to the house to let it cool and then started making half throttle pulls.... changed the oil and everything looked good so we started making wot pulls

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

So to seat the rings in the new engine, just drive it?

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

Heat cycle with 2-3000 rpm cycles and look for leaks. Cool down Drive it like you stole it

TurboBuick6

iTrader: (2)

Load seats rings aka WOT.

Chevyboi09

ANYWAYS!...LoL. SO do a couple heat cycles being easy on the throttle, change the oil befor any WOT pulls (350-500mi), then its ok to run from cops... right?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

So you are only listening to half the discussion?
The springs know nothing about throttle, only rpm, the rings need load/throttle to seat how you balance this is up to you.