Repairing a cracked cylinder
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Repairing a cracked cylinder
Whoever said you can't remove a LS1 sleeve at home with no special tools never met me lol.
I had this block laying around and really didn't want to scrap it so I decided to try repairing it. The block was cracked behind the crack in the original sleeve so my intent was to try and cut a section of the sleeve away so the block could be welded. I was surprised while cutting and grinding on it the sleeve moved a little and with very little effort I manage to get it completely out. I took it to my buddy and had him TIG up the crack in the block, now the next step it take it to the machine shop and have the sleeve installed.
Looking at the the new sleeve (Melling CSL332F) it appears to be thick enough to go at least 4.00" I am now thinking maybe going ahead and doing 8 of them so I can use a set of 4 inch pistons I have laying around. Anybody see a problem doing this??
I had this block laying around and really didn't want to scrap it so I decided to try repairing it. The block was cracked behind the crack in the original sleeve so my intent was to try and cut a section of the sleeve away so the block could be welded. I was surprised while cutting and grinding on it the sleeve moved a little and with very little effort I manage to get it completely out. I took it to my buddy and had him TIG up the crack in the block, now the next step it take it to the machine shop and have the sleeve installed.
Looking at the the new sleeve (Melling CSL332F) it appears to be thick enough to go at least 4.00" I am now thinking maybe going ahead and doing 8 of them so I can use a set of 4 inch pistons I have laying around. Anybody see a problem doing this??
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The replacement sleeve is not big enough to go 4.00 so I am just going to keep it 3.898.
I dropped it off at the machine shop today. The main concern at this point is the adjacent hole (#5) is egg-shaped due to a combination of the welding process and the fact that there is no sleeve in the hole to push against the wall and keep #5 round. The machinist says it will probably be fine but we wont know until he installs the new sleeve. Fingers crossed that it works.....
I dropped it off at the machine shop today. The main concern at this point is the adjacent hole (#5) is egg-shaped due to a combination of the welding process and the fact that there is no sleeve in the hole to push against the wall and keep #5 round. The machinist says it will probably be fine but we wont know until he installs the new sleeve. Fingers crossed that it works.....