streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

I noticed they make 2 different ones. One has ARP 8740 fasteners and the other has ARP 2000 fasteners. $120 difference in price.

I'm building a 6.0 standard bore with some forged pistons that I want to spray about 200 of Nitrous on.

Which should I go with?

Thanks

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

The rod bolt will depend on the rpm level you plan to spin it at. When I spoke to Eagle and ARP this is what they told me. The bolt has more to do with rpm then hp. They give a HP number because most people that make 700 hp are turning their engines at a lower rpm then someone making 1000hp, that is naturaly aspirated. The 700hp bolt can handel more hp then advertised if it is a boosted or nitrous setup where the engine is still turning in the rpm range the bolt was designed for.

But if your like me you hear all this and go with the more expencive bolt just to be safe.

they also offer a third bolt that falls in between those two. They both told me I can (and I did) upgrade from the 8740 to this middle range bolt without resizing the rod but if you upgrade either to the 2000 bolt you have to resize the rod, the lower two use the same torque spec but the 2000 is much higher.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

So what I am saying is it really comes down to what rpm range you plan to run the engine at with your mods more so then the total hp the engine will make.

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the info, I turn the engine to 6800-7000 now with stock bottom end. I'm wanting to add nitrous onto the car, but I'm gonna have to put some forged pistons in for peace of mind, so I figure I'd better put better rods in too.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

I would get the ones with ARP2000 rod bolts in there. Rather cheap insurance compared to the overall cost of your build.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

That is the way I always think. I would have the 2000's in mine if, but the shop that I ordered the parts from did not give me the option.

I did upgrade at the end of the season when I checked the bearings and I will put the 2000's in when I pull the engine apart for rebuild.

One thing I can say, I went the entire first season shifting at 7500 on the lower grade bolts, the bearings have always looked in perfect shape both times I changed them out. So did the journals and rods themself.

mercccc

Im doing a forged 6.2 and went with the 8740 bolts. I wont be spraying as much but will be shifting a bit lower than you. 6800 max

Beave

Texas WS6 is right on the money. I went with the 8740 bolts as they were recommended by Eagle since my goals were no more than 800hp and staying under 7500rpm. A buddy of mine has ran them for years in an 800hp car revving to 7200 with no probs.

Sales4@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (4)

I agree with everything said in here about RPM. Most people don't relate to it in that way, but that is right way to look at rods/rod bolts. That being said, for the kind of money it is to upgrade, I would go ahead and get the 2000. It never hurts to over build but it hurts a lot when something fails.

Beave

I actually ordered the rods with the 2000 bolts first but the problem is they were on backorder at the time and i needed to get my car back on the road. I feel confident the 8740's will be fine as the most power this car would ever see would be enought for low 10s, high 9s and 7500+rpm and 800+hp isnt needed for that.