bp944

iTrader: (4)

I was looking at running a 4.0 or a 4.1 stroker crank in a ls1 but was wondering if those cranks have issues with the rod bolts hitting the bottom of the oil pan. The conversion oil pans are notched down on the sides. I'll include the link to a photo below.

http://www.texasperformanceconcepts.com/Oct_19_001.jpg

mark21742

"Most" of the time you just have to shim your windage tray a hair to get a 4" crank to clear everything....if your concerned about it hitting the pan, put some thick global of grease (I like to use wheelbearing grease) on the bottom of the rod ends and rod bolts, bolt the pan on without the gasket and spin the motor over by hand....pull the pan and see if any of the grease rubbed off the rods/bolts onto the pan and do a little grinding in the spots it touched.

Once you add the pan gasket you will have plenty of clearance.

64post

iTrader: (5)

I did an LS1 with 4.00 Eagle crank, Scat I beam rods, JE pistons and the only thing it touched was
the windage tray, shimmed it away slightly with some thin 8mm washers and the rotating assy. has enough clearance. No block/cylinder bottom grinding required.

bp944

iTrader: (4)

What about a 4.100 crank?

RezinTexas

with a 4.1 crank in a stock block you will likely have to notch the oil pan as well as the bottom edge of the cylinders to clear the rod bolts. Should not be any significant amount of material removal, but several areas will require attention.

bp944

iTrader: (4)

How reliable would a 392 stroker be? Would I be safer going with a 383 strokers? I will be road racing the engine.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

You may want to reconsider the whole combo for a road racing application.
The idea with a stroker combination is the added torque and low speed driv-
ability with a large cam to make a broad powerband. A stroker crank also
elevates the piston speed (feet per second) ALOT as the additional distance
it travels up and down the bore....this increases rod angularity and the piston
becomes very short (in height...pin to top) that it will rock in the bore at the
sustained rpms you intend to use this.
If I were in your shoes and money was no issue I'd use the LS7 4.125" bore
block and put a 4.8 (3.27") stroke which would make 349.6 cubic inches.
Unless you are hung up on more cubes in which case the 6.2 (376") is a hard
combo to beat @ 4.065" bore (can be taken to .070 or .080) X 3.62" stroke
And absolutely you will want a dry sump oiling system or those 1/2 hour track
sessions will elevate the oil temps BIG time and start to kill expensive parts.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

With the longer strokes (4.10, 4.125", etc) it is very common to have to clearance the pan! I would tend to agree with ^^ in the shorter stroke being more desirable in a road race application though!