LPE GT2-3 cam
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LPE GT2-3 cam
Hey guys just picked up a bone stock 02 T/A two weeks ago and am starting to mod it so far I have a Volant CAI, SLP LM2, TSP LT's, 3inch ORY, and a Tuned by Frost mail order tune. I'm starting to look at some budget cam packages for it and came across the GT2-3 with stock Ls6 springs for a decent price. How well these springs work with this cam? I've read that the stock springs are only good for roughly .500 of lift and the cam specs are .571/.578 of lift. Anybody running this set up on their DD that can chime in is this cam pushing the limits of these Ls6 springs? Thanks!
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The LS6 springs from what I understand are good up to .580 lift. A buddy of mine runs this cam in his setup and he has beehive springs good up to .600 lift. Hope this helps...
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if no one has already mentioned, do not make a decision of a cam based on price. it will lead to remorse NO DOUBT. all the effort and money installing and then tuning again. its takes money and effort to get it done and the difference between a budget cam setup and an top of the line custom deal is only a couple hundred dollars. with LTs you have many options with much more midrange punch. i would go eps or tick 222/230
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I agree with you disco after finding some good threads the LPE cam and stock ls6 springs are a bad idea considering many ls6 owners have had problems with their STOCK cams. I also hit up TSP they advise not to go over .550 lift on the yellows. I really like the idea of a sleeper baby cam for my first build seems like the TSP 220/220+PAC 1218's+comp push rods will get me where I want to be 350 to 370 rwhp while still maintaining a good usable street power band and good drivability. Thanks for the input guys.
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ok just remember adding split on the duration side will smooth the cam out. i would look at something like 220/228 will give more stealth and stock-like manners than a 220/220. Good luck!
#6
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A 220/228 will lope harder than a 220/220, since it has more overlap if the LSA is the same between the two. Duration on the intake and exhaust, add to the total overalp of the cam as does the lobe separation angle (LSA). And overlap creates power, lope, and vacuum in the engine. Too much and you lose your stealth. It's all a trade off. Ever increasing overlap means worsening gas mileage, poorer street manners, and less emissions compliance, but it also means more power.
If you want a stealthy cam, talk to Martin@Tick or Geoff@EPS. You'll pay more for the EPS lobes, but they are proprietary and ground on Cam Motion cores as opposed to Comp cores.
You also need springs (PAC 1218 or 1518 beehives work great), hardened pushrods, and probably an oil pump and timing chain to complete the swap + a tune.
If you want a stealthy cam, talk to Martin@Tick or Geoff@EPS. You'll pay more for the EPS lobes, but they are proprietary and ground on Cam Motion cores as opposed to Comp cores.
You also need springs (PAC 1218 or 1518 beehives work great), hardened pushrods, and probably an oil pump and timing chain to complete the swap + a tune.
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i stand corrected, been a while since ive been dealing with this stuff. i just looked at the formula again and for some reason i was thinking the exhaust side reduced overlap.
maybe i have thoughts from another life of a y-pipe car needing a bit more exhaust duration to expel the old exhaust from the cylinder to run better...just rambling now.
edit: sorry our posts are out of order now :S
maybe i have thoughts from another life of a y-pipe car needing a bit more exhaust duration to expel the old exhaust from the cylinder to run better...just rambling now.
edit: sorry our posts are out of order now :S
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Wonder what kind of cam Lingenfelter would have designed for the LS1 with what we have now in terms of spring rates to handle more lifts and sophisticated tuning. GT2-3 made for stock manifolds. How different would it have been for an LS1 with LS6 intake, full length headers and tuning?