tsp 5.3 heads and ms3
#1
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tsp 5.3 heads and ms3
if i do the stage 2.5 PRC 5.3 heads with the ms3 cam and a fast intake would i need to do the injectors as well?
also which intake would i want?
would the 92mm fast be good?
with the fast throttle body to match?
thanks for the help
also which intake would i want?
would the 92mm fast be good?
with the fast throttle body to match?
thanks for the help
#4
Super Hulk Smash
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102 is probably 5-7HP across the RPM range. The only difference in price is the fuel rails. If you're spending that much, might as well maximize.
And I'd get TSP to grind you a custom variant of the MS3 on LSL/LXL lobes - still 237/242, but with more modern lobes. I'd also do it with some advance built in. 112+2 if it'll clear the heads.
And I'd get TSP to grind you a custom variant of the MS3 on LSL/LXL lobes - still 237/242, but with more modern lobes. I'd also do it with some advance built in. 112+2 if it'll clear the heads.
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102 is probably 5-7HP across the RPM range. The only difference in price is the fuel rails. If you're spending that much, might as well maximize.
And I'd get TSP to grind you a custom variant of the MS3 on LSL/LXL lobes - still 237/242, but with more modern lobes. I'd also do it with some advance built in. 112+2 if it'll clear the heads.
And I'd get TSP to grind you a custom variant of the MS3 on LSL/LXL lobes - still 237/242, but with more modern lobes. I'd also do it with some advance built in. 112+2 if it'll clear the heads.
#7
Super Hulk Smash
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I agree. You could probably hold off on the MAF, but an upgraded fuel pump with a hotwire kit is good money to spend. And the 92mm TB works well with the FAST 102, especially the FAST TB. It doesn't leave a gap and is a little easier to tune without giving up any power. And is easier to install. The 102 TBs require grinding the water pump or replacing it with an LS2 pump in order to fit.
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I agree. You could probably hold off on the MAF, but an upgraded fuel pump with a hotwire kit is good money to spend. And the 92mm TB works well with the FAST 102, especially the FAST TB. It doesn't leave a gap and is a little easier to tune without giving up any power. And is easier to install. The 102 TBs require grinding the water pump or replacing it with an LS2 pump in order to fit.
https://texas-speed.com/p-2356-racet...ic-system.aspx
#10
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Yup that kit will work. Just make sure you get the 99-02 kit since the 98s have a different gas tank.
How many miles on the car? If you're over 75k miles, I'd do lifters. The problem is, I don't have a good recommendation. The LS7s, I believe, aren't adequate for heavy valves and high spring pressures. There isn't anything that looks like a suitable alternative until you get into the high dollar Morels.
I'd do ARP Head Bolts. If you don't plan to take your heads off a lot, the bolts are all you need. And getting away from GM TTY bolts is always a good thing.
How many miles on the car? If you're over 75k miles, I'd do lifters. The problem is, I don't have a good recommendation. The LS7s, I believe, aren't adequate for heavy valves and high spring pressures. There isn't anything that looks like a suitable alternative until you get into the high dollar Morels.
I'd do ARP Head Bolts. If you don't plan to take your heads off a lot, the bolts are all you need. And getting away from GM TTY bolts is always a good thing.
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Yup that kit will work. Just make sure you get the 99-02 kit since the 98s have a different gas tank.
How many miles on the car? If you're over 75k miles, I'd do lifters. The problem is, I don't have a good recommendation. The LS7s, I believe, aren't adequate for heavy valves and high spring pressures. There isn't anything that looks like a suitable alternative until you get into the high dollar Morels.
I'd do ARP Head Bolts. If you don't plan to take your heads off a lot, the bolts are all you need. And getting away from GM TTY bolts is always a good thing.
How many miles on the car? If you're over 75k miles, I'd do lifters. The problem is, I don't have a good recommendation. The LS7s, I believe, aren't adequate for heavy valves and high spring pressures. There isn't anything that looks like a suitable alternative until you get into the high dollar Morels.
I'd do ARP Head Bolts. If you don't plan to take your heads off a lot, the bolts are all you need. And getting away from GM TTY bolts is always a good thing.
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could i do the trunnion upgrade instead of new lifters or are those different?
#14
Super Hulk Smash
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Different. The trunion just adds some protection to the stock rockers. You don't want the trunion to fail and spill needle bearings everywhere. The Comp kit includes a better mechanism to hold the needle bearings. The alternative is the CHE bushing kit, but it's $450, but has a solid copper bushing. Probably overkill for you.
The lifter is what rides on the camshaft. The pushrods sit in the lifter cup and that presses up on the rocker, which then pivots on the trunion and depresses the spring, opening the valve. All of those upgrades are for reliability with the more aggressive camshaft and springs.
The lifter is what rides on the camshaft. The pushrods sit in the lifter cup and that presses up on the rocker, which then pivots on the trunion and depresses the spring, opening the valve. All of those upgrades are for reliability with the more aggressive camshaft and springs.
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Different. The trunion just adds some protection to the stock rockers. You don't want the trunion to fail and spill needle bearings everywhere. The Comp kit includes a better mechanism to hold the needle bearings. The alternative is the CHE bushing kit, but it's $450, but has a solid copper bushing. Probably overkill for you.
The lifter is what rides on the camshaft. The pushrods sit in the lifter cup and that presses up on the rocker, which then pivots on the trunion and depresses the spring, opening the valve. All of those upgrades are for reliability with the more aggressive camshaft and springs.
The lifter is what rides on the camshaft. The pushrods sit in the lifter cup and that presses up on the rocker, which then pivots on the trunion and depresses the spring, opening the valve. All of those upgrades are for reliability with the more aggressive camshaft and springs.
also would i want gears? my cars a weekend driver and i mess around town sometimes but i dont want it falling on its face every time i take off
#18
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With that cam I wouldn't go any longer than 4.30s. Should be revving that setup to at least 7000, even with stock tire size he won't run out of 4th in the 1/4. I have 4.10s on my 228/232 cam setup and they work well, but my peak power was below 6600 - with that cam it will probably peak closer to 68-6900 depending on the intake.
#20
I've got that H/C package on my '02 SS(on 112LSA). I didn't have a problem with the LS7 lifters at all. Granted, that was before the 4L60E burnt up lol. But, that's being swapped with a stage 2 TDP built T56. Definitely go with a dyno tune. My advice is to steer way clear of the TSP mail-order tune. I paid for one, and what they gave me, absolutely sucked. Car bogged like crazy and was hard as hell to keep running. There's a video of it idling up on youtube, just search for my username on there. Oh, and pay no mind to the barefoot man(me) and the broken exhaust hanger. You'll see that after I rev it, the car basically wants to die.
Oh, and ya, I also went with F.A.S.T. 55# injectors and an upgraded in tank pump. I think it was....255lph.
Oh, and ya, I also went with F.A.S.T. 55# injectors and an upgraded in tank pump. I think it was....255lph.