LeonbergerG

iTrader: (2)

I have been searching reading and talking all over the internet and still cannot decide on a cam.
Goal: 11.xx daily driver
Mods: mid tube headers
LS6 intake
3.73 gear mosier 12 bolt
Tubular control arms, panhard
air lid
no cat hooker muffler
Unknown tune by previous owner

Car has already gone 12.85 w/1.79 60'

Few questions I have,
How much ptv is there , how big of cam can you go with 241 heads
Would 317 heads benefit at all by being able to run a bigger cam?
243 heads a better choice?

Not really wanting to change heads, but I can get a set of 317's cheap or 5.3 but would that limit my ptv clearance?

Might be looking into this to much and running alot of scenarios through my mind. Probably just a simple mild cam would do what I want?

Shiftslow

iTrader: (9)

Your going to get 1000000 different responses from people on here that should be taken with a grain of salt best thing to do is keep researching and looking at different dyno graphs and seeing which kind of cams maker power and where in your powerband. You have to ask yourself a couple of questions some of which you've answered is this going to be your DD or a track car? Are you willing to sacrifice drivability for power? Seems like your car is a4 if your running a 12 bolt research what cams work well with automatics and what kind of stall would compliment that cam.

Shiftslow

iTrader: (9)

Also if you are trying to get every pony out of your car with a cam get some quality long tubes. For the 01 to 02 T/A and SS the stock manifolds out flow aftermarket shorties and come close to some mid length headers from what I've read on this forum.

LeonbergerG

iTrader: (2)

Will be a dd. Will sacrifice drivability. long tubes will be in the future. Also M6 car

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Are you willing to sacrifice valve spring life, and how much lift are you willing to go with?

98WS6Hville

iTrader: (7)

You need to ask yourself two things: how much am i willing to spend and what exactly do I want to do with the car? Put the two-in-two together and you're getting somewhere.

MODS:
Mid-tube headers are a waste of money. My initial thought was that you were going this route due to emissions, but then I saw no cats. Get as much flow as you can and go long tube headers. If you're on a budget then the Texas Speed 1-7/8" long tube headers are argueably the best dollar-per-power for long tube headers. If you want just a tad (maybe a few more ponies), but better ground clearance then go with the Kooks. Also American Racing makes great headers as well. The Kooks headers have a great scavenging effect.

LS6 intake is nice. I personally like the FAST more, but that's just me. They're also pricier. Depends on how far out you want to go with horsepower-to-dollar ratio.

3.73 gear mosier 12 bolt (nice)
Tubular control arms, panhard (nice)
air lid (nice)
no cat hooker muffler (go true duals more flow if you currently have a catback exhaust)
Unknown tune by previous owner (is the car running good?)

One thing that I didn't notice in your post of mods. What shocks do you have? Aftermarket shocks will help you hook up better at the track. From what I've been reading, the Blisteins are nice if you are on a budget and the Konis are that much better only if you have the money. Shocks will definitely help your time out.

The Chrs1313 ram-air will also help increase your time. The whole jist of this, no it does not increase power, but it does increase air flow into the engine which in return has a 2-4 mph increase on the quarter mile (depends on whether you have the a/c version or not). You will still be able to use your lid with the chrs1313 ram-air.

Of the heads that you listed, I personally prefer the 243's. The 243's are the largest GM casting that you can run on a stock ls1 block. The 317's are basically the 243's (actually the ls6 heads) with a larger chamber (I think somewhere around 71cc). I paid around 500 for my 243's (used). Advanced Induction and TEA Heads do great port work and you could pick up some serious power by sending it to one of these guys. They have been proven from time and time again.

When picking out a cam, you seriously need to ask how much daily drivability do you want to sacrafice? With the 3.73's and built rear-end, you have the stuff to go with a big cam, but is it really worth it with the car stalling out all the time? I'd probably go with an in the higher 220's cam. List of people that I know of off the top of my head that have proven cams: tick performance, texas speed and performance, thunder racing, and a tons more that I have not mentioned. Also make sure that you match up your head and cam to each other. They need to compensate for each other.

Once you have your cam picked-out, you need to start thinking about a stable valvetrain. With a bigger cam, you will have to replace your springs more often. There's countless combination to go with when choosing from a valvetrain. Just do some research. I personally prefer the link bar lifters. The bigger cam you have, the more significant it is to have a sturdy valvetrain. This is not to say that you don't need a sturdy one in the first place.

After you figure out about how much you should be putting down by studying other builds, get the proper fuel injectors. This is often overlooked. Your stockers won't do it with this new build and they will be maxed out. They can barely handle stock power. Here is a helpful link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...ctor-size.html

Read up on these parts and how they work together. Also read up on some builds. This is all a system. You have to engineer it as a system. Don't just throw random parts in it.

I've talked about a lot. I know I've left a good bit out. Not sure if this will help, but this is the build that I'm working on right now. Look to get this going around December. Also take a look at JakeFusion's posts. He is EXTREMELY knowledgeable. List:

INTAKE:
*Fast 102 Intake Manifold Ported by Tony Mamo
*Fast 102 Big Mouth Throttle Body
*Fast Toys 104mm Lid
*TSP 100mm MAF (debating on Speed Density, need to do more research)
*SLP Air Lid Plug
*Chrs1313 Ram Air w/ AC
*Fast Intake Manifold Gaskets

HEADS AND VALVETRAIN AND CAM:
*AI 243 Stage 2 Ported Heads (64cc)
*Comp Trunion Upgrade Kit for Rocker Arms
*.040" Head Gasket
*LS3 Tuned-Down Valves
*Morel 5206 Link-Bar Hydraulic Roller Lifters
*Manton Length Hardened Pushrods
*Brian Tooley Dual Valve Springs
*SNS TorqueMax Stage 3 Cam

MISCELLANEOUS:
*Synergy High Flow Oil Pump
*Rollmaster Heat-Treated, Double-Roller Adjustable Timing Set
*GM LS2 Waterpump
*ATI Underdrive Pulley
*Racetronix Fuel Pump with Upgraded Wiring Harness
*Fast Fuel Rails
*FIC 525cc Fuel Injectors
*Yukon 4.10 Gears
*Koni Shocks (front and rear)
*MGW Short Throw Shifter
*MSD Plug Wires
*NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
*Poly Motor Mounts
*Monster Stage 2 Clutch
*93-96 LT1 Radiator
*160 Degree Thermostat
*CTS-V Brake Install

Exhaust:
*Kooks Long Tube Headers
*Flowmaster U-Fit H-Pipe Kit (either 2.5 or 3" depending on what my exhaust shop can work with because I will be going over the axle)
*BMR Driveshaft Safety Loop
*BMR Panhard Rod Relocation Kit
*Magnaflow 14419 Mufflers

Also read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html

Hope this helps.

SILVER2000WS6T/A

iTrader: (1)

You could have pat g or ed curtis spec a cam for what fits you best.i have seen quite a few cars with small camshafts go well into the 11s and not sacrifice to much driveability.although they were stalled autos

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

As stated, get your suspension dialed in. But as far as performance you want a mid range cam, something around the 22x/23x range. No use in running a huge cam that puts up good numbers on the dyno, but sucks to drive and doesn't to anything at the track. As far as heads the 243s are always a good idea, no sense in running 317s really, unless you mill them but that does limit your ptv. As far as your exhaust, the mids are ok, you will see some gains swapping them out. Assuming they are MAC mids you can port the primaries and cut off the flanges, weld on some new ones and have a full 3" transition into duals.

LeonbergerG

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input everyone. The mods that are on the car were done before I bought it. I'd say it runs good since it has gone 12.80's Hooks great at the track launching at 4500 with 315 Mickey et streets,and gets 29mpg.

I have been looking at cams in the low 230's. Also think im going to get a set of Lt's.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

4.10s would be a much better choice. You have a .50 OD. With 3.73s and a bigger cam you are going to not be using 6th much without lugging the engine.

LeonbergerG

iTrader: (2)

4.10's will be in the future

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Feel free to shoot me a PM or email with thoughts on your combination. I'm sure I've got a camshaft that will fit your needs.