bhobbs

My father and I are currently restoring a 70 Chevelle that is my car. It was supposed to be done a long time ago but we are both learning as we go and never knew what we got ourselves into. Since my Chevelle was a pile of parts, my dad lent me his 98 Z28 that I will return to him when my Chevelle is done. We should be hopefully turning it over soon but who knows what we will run into. Always seems like something comes up.

So, after my Chevelle is done, we decided to work on the Camaro, too. It is all stock with a 6 speed that really needs some work as well. Here's the plan we have so far.

Stock cube LS1
NA
SMOG legal (legitimately pass, not *wink wink* find the right guy pass)
Budget around $6k but I might be able to squeeze a little more out of him if I need to.
Making a little more power over stock. I know the LS6 is around 400 HP and if we can beat that, it's more than enough for us.

The car will be a DD and I have never tracked it but would like to try 1/4 and some auto x in the future. I would appreciate someone pointing us in the right direction since we know even less about LS motors than we do about gen 2 small blocks. Plus, dealing with SMOG makes it harder.

2000PewterT/A

I am not 100% sure about the laws for California but I would start with bolt-ons and easy stuff. Headers, catted y pipe, a good cat back. Definitely a intake lid and if you want a chris1313 style ram air system are nice. You can do a underdrive pulley also to free up some power. A LS6 intake would also be a good budget friendly choice. Now as far as what cams would pass smog I am not sure, you can contact Martin at Tick Performance or Texas Speed and both will be able to help you out in that category, you could also get some heads that would complement the cam you get. As far a suspension mods go, it’s really what you want the car to do carve corners or quarter mile or both. I would get some subframe connectors to start. For more information about Ls motors in general take a look at this sticky https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html. That should cover most of the general questions. The best advice I could give you is just spend some time reading through this website, it is a wealth on information.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Have the factory heads ported an milled, or get a set of AFR 210s which have a CARB EO#.
Get at least a 212/218 with a lsa range from 112-114lsa(-9* to -15*OL). The largest I'd go would be a 218/230 115lsa +4(-6* OL). With the AFR 210 heads and LS6 intake I'd go with a custom 218(.598")/226 .570")115lsa +4 with a -8* overlap. Quite a few companies make a 212/218. Another option is the Crane 216/224 114 or 115lsa cam(-8*to-10* OL) or the Tick performance 218/230 117lsa+2 cam(10* OL).

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

LS1 is a nice engine, but for a 1970 Chevelle? Which currently doesn't require a smog test....with the LS1 you would..

I would build the biggest nasty BBC I could. You could gave a 1,000hp BBC and not have a single smog issue, but your 350hp LS1 will be a tough. California sucks! You will be limited for sure.

Maybe look into the LS3 E-rod package.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Doubtful long tube headers and high flow cats far away from the engine will legitimately pass CA smog testing.

Shorties with a good set of high flow cats (like a magnaflow) should be able to pass. A small cam designed for shorties and with no overlap along with a nice set of AFR205 heads will get you to your power goals and beyond.

bhobbs

I was thinking of using the 210s but not sure how they will fit in the budget. How do the PRC 2.5 243s compare?

Edit: I just looked for a 218/230 cam and found a Tick Performance 218/230 with .59x"/.60x" LSA 117+2. They said it should pass smog.

bhobbs

No, I already built a 355 for my Chevelle. The LS1 is for the 98 Z28 that I'm driving.

bhobbs

Would a stock GM crank work or should I look into after market cranks?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Stock crank will be fine. FYI, you can still fail smog if you use other gm heads than what you 98 ls1 came with that's why I suggest ported stockers or the AFRs. Also if you go with higher flowing/compression heads you can go with less int./exh. split like the 218/226 115lsa which will have higher DCR and a more stock like powerband then the 218/230 117lsa cam, an still pass smog. Now if you do stick with the unmodified stock heads I'd stick with the wider split 218/230 117lsa cam. Furthermore I'd also get some PaceSetter or JBA shorty headers (CA legal) whichever you can get for less.

bhobbs

I didn't know other GM heads could cause you to fail.

Well, I guess I can try to get the AFRs.

bhobbs

Is there any downside to using the 98 LS1 short block? I would take it apart and have the block and crank checked at a shop but I have read that early LS1 blocks aren't the best for making power. Would it be better to pick up a GMPP LS6 blocks?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Unless you decide to going for a High HP build I just don't see an issue with it. Id say have it checked and replace the fasteners with ARP hardware.

bhobbs

Sounds good. I can use the money I would have spent on the block and crank for the AFR 210s.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

my friend and I both have 2000 t/a's .We live near Los Angeles,Ca. My experience is that if you go with a cam that's over 230 it will be hard to pass the tail pipe part of the smog.My buddy has a slightly hotter cam,afr heads,ls6 intake,kooks long tubes,and a good tune and he passes the tail pipe of the smog.If you pass the tail pipe part of the smog and they are not looking under your car,you will be ok.
My car has a 224/224 cam and some similar mods. I am running 317 heads with a lot of work + 2.08 intakes and the car won't pass. AFR heads, a good cam (228),long tubes, etc,etc,with a good tune should pass.A good tune is really important.
My buddie had a 98 that got stolen with similar mods as his 2000 and that car passed smog.

RezinTexas

Just curious why AFR heads will pass smog, while modified 317's wont?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

AFR basically spent the money to get them CARB certified which got them a EO #. any GM heads that were not used in your year Camaro/firebird LS1 are considered the same as any other aftermarket heads that don't have a CARB EO#, so they're not legal.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The unwritten rule is a 224/224 114lsa cam since it has -4* overlap , but you still need a good tune that's geared towards passing smog and cats working at optimum efficiency along with all the other emission related equipment. Going with a cam that has -4* overlap doesn't guaranty you'll pass SMOG, it's just the largest recommended, I've heard of people actually passing with larger cams, but it usually entails special additives to the fuel and or tune adjustments just for smog sniffer test, which of course you'll need to change soon after. I can't say why yours didn't pass, but with your 224/224/115lsa cam with -6* overlap it really should not have been an issue.

bhobbs

I got my car smog checked a few months ago and it passed but the guy still looked under the hood. He looked pretty closely from what I can tell. I doubt I can sneak LTs by unless I find a new place to go.

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

Normally I would say go boost but your budget is 6K and that might be a little tight. Well for starters your intake setup. The only legal option is a K&N FIPK II kit, you could run an air lid and switch back to stock for smog, but the K&N is legal all the time. For an intake manifold you have 2 options. An SLP LS6 intake is CARB approved because it has an EGR provision. Also the FAST 102 is CARB approved. As far as heads go stay stock or get the AFRs, honestly I would just get 243s and grind the casting #s off. For a cam there are a number of CA grinds or you can have one specd out. For exhaust, get some short tube headers, I believe edelbrocks are the only ones approved. For a catback thats up to you, all are legal with a proper muffler

2000PewterT/A

I was referring to shorties or mid lengths that still keep the cats within a reasonable distance from the headers.