Nuclearbreath

So a few weeks back I lost oil pressure at a red light when my rpm dropped. Drove it 500 ft, parked it, and ordered a high pressure oil pump. Had it installed, now I have great oil pressure and a rod knock. Ugh.

So since I'm tearing into the bottom end, I wanna beef it some. I'm thinking a 383. TSP's 383 rotating assembly is looking pretty enticing, with a pretty good price. The LS1 already has TSP Stg 2.5 LS6 heads, Torquer V3 cam, hardened pushrods, LS7 lifters, high pressure oil pump, SLP intake, Hookers, ORY, and SLP catback.
My questions are:
1. I'm sure I'll need bigger injectors, but how much bigger? I have the stockers still.
2. I've heard you need to go bigger with your cam on a stroker. Since I already have a fairly large one, can I use the V3 I have? (231/234, .643/.598 111LSA)
3. Will the block need to be notched?
4. Is there anything I'm forgetting? Also any opinions/knowledge you might have, please share. I'm rather noobish at this, but I'm anxious to learn.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

1) Yes, 42lbs would be good. Make sure you get injectors your tuner is familiar with and has files for or else you may end up getting charged extra dyno time to dial those in.

2) The Cam would be pretty mild in a 383. You need a later closing IVC for the 4" stroke to make optimum power. The MS3 would actually be a pretty good cam for the car. Or basically any of the bigger mid 230s duration cams on a 113 or 114 LSA would work well.

3) You'll need to get your block magnafluxed/cleaned, honed, mains aligned, etc. Full machine work-up which will cost probably $800 or so (or more).

Luckily, you can get the TSP kit already balanced (225ish). Sometimes, machine shops can charge outrageously for balancing.

HKE also offers a 383 kit and Erik charges a lot less for the balancing (120ish), unless heavy metals are needed. So that's another option.

RezinTexas

pick your cam to optimize your DCR, as Jake suggested. I'm running right at 8.5 with my 383.
I'm running the FAST 36-lb injectors (off-white color) and they are plenty for a max effort N/A 383.
Besides spacing the windage tray and grinding the oil pan to clear the rod bolts, there is not much out of the normal to build a 383. You'll spend TONS more than you budget for on things like tools, gaskets, bolts, etc...
Have fun and take pictures.

Nuclearbreath

Thanks guys. After much deliberation, I think im just gonna go with stock cubes, and just build a better bottom end to go with my current setup.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

383 doesn't cost much more. I'd do it. The cost of polishing a stock crank vs a new Eagle 4" crank or K1 crank is like $500 more. The machine work is pretty much the same, but some of the longblock assembly labor is a bit more involved as Rezin stated.

garygnu

correct ^^^^^,do the 383 short block .

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

+1. If this isn't a daily driver, you'll regret not upgrading while you're in there. Ask me how I know...

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Here is a link to the HKE kit I was talking about:

http://store.hkracingengines.com/pro...products_id=31

Balanced with ACL bearings, K1 Rods, Crank, and Wiseco pistons, it's just 2150. Not a bad price for a balanced 383 rotating assembly with quality components + main/rod bearings.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Pick up the book, "How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines" by Joseph Potak. It's a good book where he builds a 383 and goes over the things needed to modified.