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Pulling a 5.3L out of an 04' Yukon, doesn't look good!

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Old 08-24-2013, 12:44 AM
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Default Pulling a 5.3L out of an 04' Yukon, doesn't look good!

OK, the Yukon has a Junk title and is pretty much worthless. We were told it only had 43K-48K miles. The wiring in the truck was in bad shape and hooking a battery up wouldn't do squat. So I started pulling it apart with the hopes I can get someone to run the VIN # for me so I know what kind of miles the thing has. Unbolting the exhaust logs was depressing, 2 of the header bolts broke off.
Then I pulled the truck intake. The intake runners are straight nasty. So are the heads where the intake feeds them. There's no way this truck has less than 50K miles. I'm guessing well over 100K. Any thoughts? or is this normal oil ingestion and the reason oil catch cans are needed?
Any other ways of finding out the miles?
Also, what is the best way to remove the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rails?
And do I need a lift plate to lift this engine out. I might just make one.
Old 08-24-2013, 12:49 AM
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Sorry, forgot the pics.









Old 08-24-2013, 03:35 AM
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OK, found a video on taking a Sharpie cap and making a disconnect tool for the fuel line.
As far as the miles go, guess I will have to just do a car fax to get an estimate. The DMV told me it was smogged last year but it doesn't show them the mileage. Hate to pay $40 for a carfax just to find out mileage.
In my searching, seems the valley bolts are where it's at. I will just fab up a lift plate that will bolt up in the valley.
Old 08-24-2013, 03:49 AM
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Everything there looks like more than 50k IMO. Best of luck!
Old 08-24-2013, 06:09 AM
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Fuel line tools. $3 each at any car parts store.

Old 08-24-2013, 09:39 AM
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Def looks like a 100k mile motor, but miles don't worry me as much as bad maintainence does
Old 08-24-2013, 12:20 PM
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Mileage don't matter at this point. It is what it is (probably way more than 50k).
Old 08-24-2013, 12:27 PM
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Definitely 50+. My intake did not look that bad when I pulled it off and it had 117k on it. Good luck!
Old 08-24-2013, 12:35 PM
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My intake looked far worse at 145k miles.
Old 08-24-2013, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
Fuel line tools. $3 each at any car parts store.

Don't get the plastic kind. They suck. Spend $2 more and get the metal ones.
Old 08-24-2013, 12:54 PM
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Yea the aluminum disconnect tools are worth the extra $10
Old 08-25-2013, 12:06 AM
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I bought the plastic ones like above, the full kit for $20. Worked perfect.

Well, a buddy is loaning me his engine stand so I will split the motor and trans and get the engine on the stand. Pull the heads as I had 3 header bolts break off in the heads : (
I will run them up to the shop up the street from me and have them fix em. Maybe see what they will charge to have the bigger valve upgrade done to them.
What should I look for on the botom end when I pull the heads? I will pull the pan as well for inspection and to do some upgrades.

And curious. The 4L60E. When I pulled the driveline out of the back of the trans, all the fluid dumped. Is that normal? Blown seal/bearing? Or is that a normal thing? My brother was here and said it is, I was saying no. Who is right?





Old 08-25-2013, 12:21 AM
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It's normal for the tranny fluid to dump out the back when the driveshaft is pulled. It's one of the reasons why they make plug caps for them.
Old 08-25-2013, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh18Fan
It's normal for the tranny fluid to dump out the back when the driveshaft is pulled. It's one of the reasons why they make plug caps for them.
Thanks for letting me know that I was the one who was wrong and now I have to let my older brother know he was right!
Old 08-25-2013, 01:15 PM
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Are you going to take the engine apart? I suggest that you do.
Get the valve covers off and ges some photos for us. That will be the first clue on maintenance.

An engine could have 50K miles on it and only 3 oil changes....you just don't know the history.
These engines stay nice and clean on the outside, so no clues there.

I bought an L33 with 136K miles, it was ok inside, but wasn't maintained real well and certainly not with synthetic oil. However, the bearings were excellent. The only issue was a little scuffing on the pistons.

Ron
Old 08-25-2013, 02:04 PM
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x2

Even a peek inside the oil fill hole can tell a lot.
Old 08-25-2013, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for the advice gents. I will post up photo this evening. I did pull a valve cover and it looked fine but then again..... I'm clueless on what I should be looking for. Plugs for sure have been in there a long time. The gaps were monstrous!
What photos should I post? Here is what I will post so far...
Plugs
inside of valve covers
heads with covers removed
Head pulled( shot of combustion chambers)
I will have an engine stand tomorrow and will drain the oil and pull the pan off to look at the rotating assembly.
Any other shots you guys want to see?
Bottom of the oil filter says Feb 13' so there's at least 1 oil change!!! lol
Old 08-25-2013, 03:14 PM
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:20 PM
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Other than broken parts, chunks of metal, sludge.... which I see nothing like that so far. What should I be looking for? Or is it the bottom end I should be worried about? I will drain the oil later today. Have a Bday party to go to in a bit so have to wait until I get back home. I will pull on of the heads and take some shots. Tomorrow I will get it on the stand and get pics with the pan off.
Trans is my other concern. Hoping the trans is in good shape. As clean as it is, makes me think maybe it's a rebuild or replacement. Maybe not.
What should I look for when inspecting the trans???
Old 08-25-2013, 04:57 PM
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the heads look good to me. drain the oil and look for a metallic shimmer. if the oil looks shimmery there might be some worn bearings.


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