Macgilliosa

Hey wha are somw of you people running out there for cams with your stoc stalls? Ive read lots of different opinions on what is the biggest you can run with stock stall but not many people actually running it, i was hopein to be able to run a 224/228 texas speed cam! I think tha would be the perfect cam for me! But ive read some places that i could run something that size and some places that i couldnt, and if you could throw in some details that would be great, like what you idle at, what you redline at and just how the car feels with the cam! Thanks and yes i know a stall would do my car wonders but i dont have the money for a good stall raight now so im gunna do the cam first then do a stall to nicely match the cam later on, but if someone could send me in the way of a good budget stall that will make a big difference and still be reliable then by all means go ahead it would be great to hear, but i would love if the first question could be answered by as many people as possible, also please list othwr mods and dyno results if you have them, thanks

00ssmg

iTrader: (4)

go with a stall first. what it will cost you for a cam, valve springs, timing chain, push rods, and tune (oil pump as well for good measure) you could pick up a new stall and trans cooler for less. You will also see better gains at the track with the stall rather than the cam with stock stall. You would be surprised what a good stall and a set of gears will take of your E.T. Just my 2 cents.

Hubbard Racing Inc

iTrader: (6)

I agree, you will see much faster times going with a stall on stock cam. Plus, if you go with a converter now, you options on cams later on will be much broader!

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

There's literally no reason to build your car in the wrong order. People do the stall first for a reason.

As for going with a budget stall, you have to be careful. People usually go with Yank, Circle D, etc, becuase they're the most popular. But they also usually end up buying a billet front cover when it's not neccesary unless you lock the converter at WOT, which you wont.

I personally went with a PTC converter, I've heard alot of good things about them. I like it, great quality and performance, and it was about 550 or so for the converter and cooler shipped to my door. Circle D also has a non billet converter.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

PTC all the way, I wasn't able to sell my Yank stall that needed a cut & clean and that's the only reason I didn't go PTC.

Listen to the others, don't do a cam first as your $$$ to HP ratio won't be as good as going with a Torque Converter

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Which ptc have you used before your yank?

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

None, going off of others that I know recommendations. They've had enough success that I wanted to go with them.

The Yank was cool but left a bit to be desired.

I like Yank, Circle-D, FTI, PTC....any of those options are good. Talk with each of them and go with who you feel best with.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

The problem with doing a cam first that is matched to your stock stall is that when you do get the stall eventually it will then be mismatched for the cam.

If you know for sure you'll be doing both mods, do the stall first and them the cam. Otherwise you're going to have to do the cam all over again when you do get the new stall since the one you had in there was obviously done for the stock stall.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

There is no cam worth doing in an ls1 that will work properly with a stock stall, and this is coming from someone who tried it. Not only will the car be faster stall only than cam only but if you do the cam the car will push through the brakes at stops and burn up brake pads (when it isn't dying coming to a stop from being lugged down)

I ran a cam almost exactly the same size as what you mention with a stock stall and it was miserable to drive and slow as ****...could barely even power brake it to burnout.

Either get the stall first or save your money and do it all at once

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

You can run that Texas speed cam with a stock converter there won't be any drive ability issues, you just won't get the max benefit from it track wise..

bpopham22

Save your money and buy a quality stall. I was extremely worried I wouldn't like it,but I was wrong. I payed a little over $800 bux for my ss3600 and to have it installed with a b&m cooler was around $900. Excellent investment and a pleasure to drive.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Stall. Stall. Stall.

You can't run much bigger of a cam. At least not one that will make any sort of noticeable improvement in how fast the car is.

A stall will do more than any cam in making the car faster.

And, that dead spot you hit going from first to second? That's cured with enough stall.

Macgilliosa

Ok well i guess that stall before ca really is the best way to go, what are some of the best stall and cam combos? Also where is a good place to buy budget stalls? What is everybody running? Anybody useing ebay stalls? If so which ones an how do you like it? Thanks guys

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Edge is as "budget" as I would go and I do use them very happily.

I would like to echo the stall first comments I did a mild cam first and while it drove fine the car wasn't any faster. LOTS of us have made these mistakes before, no need for anyone else to repeat them

ws6fitz

I had a Vig stall and it was ok. I am running a Yank ss4000 and made all the difference!
Yank FTW. IMO don't cheap out on the stall. The Yank is not cheep but I assure you wont be disappointed.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Put gassed rag in gas tank opening, light, run. Seriously, you're wasting your time. I'm not gonna repeat what everyone else is going to tell you, I'm just gonna say I agree.

Mike_hawk

I have an 82 silverado with a lq9/4l60e and a comp 224/224 114. When I had the trans rebuilt I put a stock V6 torque converter in it. I think it's around 1800-1900 stall. It's not the best combo by far but it works well. Brakes work, idles fine at 700. It would definitely be much faster off the line with a higher stall but I wanted good mileage with passing power. Cruising it seems tame, but if I punch it, it throws you back. I don't have a comparison to stock, but it doesn't feel mismatched to me.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

"Stall speed" is relative. Meaning a converter behind a v6 may be a 1500 but the same one behind a v8 would be a 2k. That helped in your favor.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

This sort of thinking has been popular with other vehicles in the past. I know the b-body guys at one point liked a "S-10" converter, till they realized that with all the extra power and weight they were slowly pushing the fins over and stall speed went up further and efficiency went down.

Far as mileage, long as you use a lockup converter and have appropriate gears so you aren't cruising at too low an rpm what does stall have to do with mileage in a LOCKUP application?

Best daily driver stall I ever used was a 2800stall Edge with 3.42s and a 27" tire. Buy a GOOD 9.5" converter like Edge, Yank, Vig and keep the stall in the 28-3200range and it will drive like stock again long as the gears are appropriate.

bpopham22

My mileage went down maybe 10-15 miles a tank with an ss3600. But that also could be caused by my heavy foot playing with my new converter.