chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

OK rebuilding my 346 ls1 into 383 trying to make sure I have all everything I need or am I missing anything

Crank
Rods
Pistons
Cam bearings rod bearing
Head gasket
Oil pan gasket rear and front main seal
Miling oil pump
Walbro 255 (need to order hot wire kit)
sending in my trans for a stage 2 rebuild to tick next month
36 lb injectors (now I'm thinking I should have went bigger)
the rest of mods in sig if I forgot something...
Is there anything else I should get? Or am I pretty much set

td1168

iTrader: (2)

main bearings and be prepared to clearance the bottom of your cylinders for the connecting rods.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

OK I got the main bearings im going to take it to a shop for the rebuild i was going to do it myself but im runing nitrous and the ring have to be gapped different or something So I'm just going to let them rebuild it.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Looks good so far, yes your ring gaps need to be opened a bit for the shot you want..

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

OK cool I forgot to mention ls2 timing chain going to add the trick flow guides for the chain as well

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Yes I added the TFS damper with a ls2 chain, best setup you can get right now IMHO..

Double rollers are crap and aren't any stronger, they bind like the single chains do..

What really helps is a good harmonic balancer like a full size steel ATI super damper, that keeps your chain in check..

Here I am rambling lol, just my 2 cents

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

I have the slp.. but hey I do not mind the .02 cents at all

cookba

iTrader: (10)

what is this about rings being gapped differently for nitrous? is this for cars that will see a lot of shots? I have a 383 being built and may do nitrous 150-200 shot down the road for when i go to the track every once in a while.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Nitrous is more oxygen, which will burn more fuel, which makes more power,
hence a bunch more heat....in order to prevent the ring gaps from butting
together and breaking off piston peices you typically will need to open the primary gap to about .028"-.030" and the secondary ring at .032"...this is
a generalization for a four inch bore piston.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

ahhh thank you. and does this have any negative repercussions if i end up not doing nitrous?

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

I'm also doing a 200 should but I'm only playing every now and then as Well so this is what I also would like to know

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

It will only blead off a few psi of cranking compression but at high piston
speeds it's usually not noticeable at the track. Another NOS tip is never use
anti-seize on your spark plug threads. EVER

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the heads up

WS6ICK2k

Can you actually do this cheaper than buying a short block?

cookba

iTrader: (10)

found a chart on Wiseco's site. using it with a 3.905 bore comes out to a .019 1st ring and .021 2nd ring.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

Using your own short block buying rotating assembly and assembling yourself I'm just taking mine to shop don't want t t III mess anything up

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

is my bloack already predrilled for the timing chain dampner ?? if so which dampner should I get?

halfhilloa

I have a 383 being built and may do nitrous 150-200 shot down the road for when i go to the track every once in a while.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the two threaded holes right above the oil pump (your timing chain is covering the one on the right) are for the dampener.

Katech has a stash of GM factory dampeners they are selling, but for $90 or so. I bought one last year for a project, but ended up not using it as my block wasn't drilled & tapped for it. Send a PM if you're interested, I got raped but no sense letting it sit on the shelf.

conan

iTrader: (5)

My machine shop gapped my total seal rings at .021 on the top and .023 for the 2nd ring. This is for a blower application but the NO2 guys aren't much differant.

Also, what are you doing for head gaskets, head studs ? Are you going to line hone the main caps and stud them or go bolts ?


You don't have to clearance the bottom of the cylinders on a LS engine with a 4" stroke.

Can you elaborate on this please.