whats the min costs and need to knows of stroking your ls1 to 383 parts/labor/all?
10-08-2013, 08:41 PM
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Webb City,MO
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
whats the min costs and need to knows of stroking your ls1 to 383 parts/labor/all? I was wondering if anyone that has bought a 383 stroker kit could maybe give me a list of all parts i will need to find as sort of a reference list to check part by part and cost by cost to plan out my build. Going into a 98 z28 Camaro...I have a cam, timing chain, LS6 oil pump, Springs, lifters, intake, exhaust, 255fp, stall, gears, ect...
Id like to have the following.....
Cost of pulling the motor
Cost of typical 383 kit w everything included
Any unexpected costs that most forget about when doing this
Any work to the block itself I may have to to do
Fuel system upgrades ( only what is absolutely needed)
Anything else you can think of supporting mod wise or that ends up costing $
Putting the stuff back together and into the car.
Tune
Anything/Everything
Pushrods/size
Spring size min.
Basically a very close itemized list of parts and labor start to finish that can give me a true estimate and I can use as sort of a double check checklists. Also, if you have the knowledge of typical forum prices...what the parts and things I need could possibly be had for on here using the forums.
Thanks guys....trying to get an accurate checklist so please inquire only if you have done this before or have the proper prestige. Thanks again!
Id like to have the following.....
Cost of pulling the motor
Cost of typical 383 kit w everything included
Any unexpected costs that most forget about when doing this
Any work to the block itself I may have to to do
Fuel system upgrades ( only what is absolutely needed)
Anything else you can think of supporting mod wise or that ends up costing $
Putting the stuff back together and into the car.
Tune
Anything/Everything
Pushrods/size
Spring size min.
Basically a very close itemized list of parts and labor start to finish that can give me a true estimate and I can use as sort of a double check checklists. Also, if you have the knowledge of typical forum prices...what the parts and things I need could possibly be had for on here using the forums.
Thanks guys....trying to get an accurate checklist so please inquire only if you have done this before or have the proper prestige. Thanks again!
10-08-2013, 08:49 PM
#2
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Webb City,MO
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have also read that a 370 may be the way to go budget wise as there is money saved using my block and crank savings? Is this true? I am curious about the cost differences in the two builds and also the less amount of work that would need to be done doing the 370. I have basically been forced to pull the motor and dont want to just fix it and put it back in but yet take full advantage of having it out and readily available. So its all about budgeting and affordability. Please keep all these things in mind. Thanks again guys.
10-08-2013, 08:54 PM
#3
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Webb City,MO
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
crank, rods, rings, bearings and pistons are the obvious too.....im talking about everything else I will need besides just these parts...and the cost associated with it.
10-08-2013, 09:19 PM
#4
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I was getting quotes from several businesses for a built 408 without heads or intake was over 6k. That was only for the short block and did not include install as I was doing that myself.
Best suggestion would be call a couple of sponsors and tell them what you want and they will be able to give you an itemized bill.
Best suggestion would be call a couple of sponsors and tell them what you want and they will be able to give you an itemized bill.
10-10-2013, 03:50 AM
#5
Cost of pulling the motor
Cost of typical 383 kit w everything included
Any unexpected costs that most forget about when doing this
Any work to the block itself I may have to to do
Fuel system upgrades ( only what is absolutely needed)
Anything else you can think of supporting mod wise or that ends up costing $
Putting the stuff back together and into the car.
Tune
Anything/Everything
Pushrods/size
Spring size min.
10-10-2013, 03:26 PM
#7
Let me break it down for you:
Ported Heads assembled - $2k (or less or more depending on what heads you go with)
Valvetrain/cam/pushrods/lifters/trunion upgrade - $750 (or more depending if you opt for high dollar lifters)
383 Shortblock using your block and decent forged parts like Compstar/K1 - $3500
FAST LSX and TB and Fuel Rails/Injectors - $1600
Supporting Mods (spark plugs/wires, UDP, fuel pump, gaskets, oils, lid etc) - $1k (at least maybe closer to 2k depending on what you need - like LS6 Valley cover, Cometics etc)
Exhaust and headers - $2k for stainless headers/y/catback or Kooks true duals; maybe 1k for TSP headers and TDs
Transmission - $2400 (auto is going to hate a 383 making power)
Torque Converter - $800
Rearend and driveshaft - $3k
Labor - $3k (or more depending on how much they have to do with rearend and trans)
$20k. If you have any of that, it helps the price. But that number, 20k, is probably low. If you're just talking about the 383 and heads/cam and not the drivetrain. 15k is a good baseline number. If you have the exhuast already, that'll help, but I'd still plan on 15k.
Ported Heads assembled - $2k (or less or more depending on what heads you go with)
Valvetrain/cam/pushrods/lifters/trunion upgrade - $750 (or more depending if you opt for high dollar lifters)
383 Shortblock using your block and decent forged parts like Compstar/K1 - $3500
FAST LSX and TB and Fuel Rails/Injectors - $1600
Supporting Mods (spark plugs/wires, UDP, fuel pump, gaskets, oils, lid etc) - $1k (at least maybe closer to 2k depending on what you need - like LS6 Valley cover, Cometics etc)
Exhaust and headers - $2k for stainless headers/y/catback or Kooks true duals; maybe 1k for TSP headers and TDs
Transmission - $2400 (auto is going to hate a 383 making power)
Torque Converter - $800
Rearend and driveshaft - $3k
Labor - $3k (or more depending on how much they have to do with rearend and trans)
$20k. If you have any of that, it helps the price. But that number, 20k, is probably low. If you're just talking about the 383 and heads/cam and not the drivetrain. 15k is a good baseline number. If you have the exhuast already, that'll help, but I'd still plan on 15k.
Trending Topics
10-10-2013, 05:18 PM
#8
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Webb City,MO
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL, ok their champ. So I take it the 383 stroker kits out there on the market for $2100-$2500 are complete Junk and a machine shop would be unable to do block work? 20k seems like the old "crabs in a bucket" comments....guy tries to do something diffrent and gets dragged back in by the leg and told your not going to make it happen by giving an unrealistic number like that. Even Texasmotor has a built ready to go for $11k thats everything needed. Seems that the 5 or 6 local kids with stroked LS1's in town must also be bank robers or have one kidney less than the rest of us hahaha....let me re phrase this......What CAN this be possibly had for given a guy is a little resourcful and has some mechanical abilties and uses the forums to buy parts that arnt still wrapped in boxes with the price tags still on them....
Christ...
Christ...
10-10-2013, 05:52 PM
#11
3500 is what I said for the 383. The rotating assembly might be 2200. You're going to need close to a 1000-1200 with a machine shop in labor costs. Even TSP isn't selling a 383 for less than that... plus you have to add shipping to their price. I'm not trying to discourage you or **** in your corn flakes, though I do take umbrage with your attitude. I'm just telling you what it is... I itemized all aspects of a build with the typical prices.
What I provided is based in reality. I've actually lived through buying all of the stuff in my build thread. I know exactly how much it takes. And it takes a lot more than you expect. Can you do it for less? Sure. Cheap out on parts. Do some things and wait on others. Do things twice because you didn't do it right the first time. Etc. We all have been there and learned. Spending a little more upfront is smarter than trying to save, realize you've made a mistake, and doing it again, thus costing a lot more than you ever anticipated.
Even doing all the work yourself if adds up. Best bet is buy everything used. Nickle and dime everything. Just buying gaskets for the engine rebuild is over $300 using GM stuff. Hell, if you don't have all the tools needed, that'll be a major expense too if you do it yourself.
Buying a longblock crate motor might be cheaper. But you still have to buy the supporting mods. You can't drop a longblock into a stock car with stock exhaust manifolds, stock injectors, stock stall, etc.
What I provided is based in reality. I've actually lived through buying all of the stuff in my build thread. I know exactly how much it takes. And it takes a lot more than you expect. Can you do it for less? Sure. Cheap out on parts. Do some things and wait on others. Do things twice because you didn't do it right the first time. Etc. We all have been there and learned. Spending a little more upfront is smarter than trying to save, realize you've made a mistake, and doing it again, thus costing a lot more than you ever anticipated.
Even doing all the work yourself if adds up. Best bet is buy everything used. Nickle and dime everything. Just buying gaskets for the engine rebuild is over $300 using GM stuff. Hell, if you don't have all the tools needed, that'll be a major expense too if you do it yourself.
Buying a longblock crate motor might be cheaper. But you still have to buy the supporting mods. You can't drop a longblock into a stock car with stock exhaust manifolds, stock injectors, stock stall, etc.
Last edited by JakeFusion; 10-10-2013 at 06:16 PM.
10-10-2013, 07:44 PM
#12
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3500 is what I said for the 383. The rotating assembly might be 2200. You're going to need close to a 1000-1200 with a machine shop in labor costs. Even TSP isn't selling a 383 for less than that... plus you have to add shipping to their price. I'm not trying to discourage you or **** in your corn flakes, though I do take umbrage with your attitude. I'm just telling you what it is... I itemized all aspects of a build with the typical prices.
What I provided is based in reality. I've actually lived through buying all of the stuff in my build thread. I know exactly how much it takes. And it takes a lot more than you expect. Can you do it for less? Sure. Cheap out on parts. Do some things and wait on others. Do things twice because you didn't do it right the first time. Etc. We all have been there and learned. Spending a little more upfront is smarter than trying to save, realize you've made a mistake, and doing it again, thus costing a lot more than you ever anticipated.
Even doing all the work yourself if adds up. Best bet is buy everything used. Nickle and dime everything. Just buying gaskets for the engine rebuild is over $300 using GM stuff. Hell, if you don't have all the tools needed, that'll be a major expense too if you do it yourself.
Buying a longblock crate motor might be cheaper. But you still have to buy the supporting mods. You can't drop a longblock into a stock car with stock exhaust manifolds, stock injectors, stock stall, etc.
What I provided is based in reality. I've actually lived through buying all of the stuff in my build thread. I know exactly how much it takes. And it takes a lot more than you expect. Can you do it for less? Sure. Cheap out on parts. Do some things and wait on others. Do things twice because you didn't do it right the first time. Etc. We all have been there and learned. Spending a little more upfront is smarter than trying to save, realize you've made a mistake, and doing it again, thus costing a lot more than you ever anticipated.
Even doing all the work yourself if adds up. Best bet is buy everything used. Nickle and dime everything. Just buying gaskets for the engine rebuild is over $300 using GM stuff. Hell, if you don't have all the tools needed, that'll be a major expense too if you do it yourself.
Buying a longblock crate motor might be cheaper. But you still have to buy the supporting mods. You can't drop a longblock into a stock car with stock exhaust manifolds, stock injectors, stock stall, etc.
10-10-2013, 08:29 PM
#13
I feel the "north of $10K" is realistic and probably on the low side.
Labor on average is $99 an hour and I know building, pulling, installing an engine will take time. A solid tune will run you ~$500.
You are already $4-$5K for just for labor!!
Buy good parts for the engine, FAST Intake, new injectors, clutch/stall, all supporting parts...It will not be cheap!
I would also look for a complete engine from Summit, TSP, MAST etc...Sell your LS1 and you will already be ahead.
The labor will still kill you, its ridiculously expensive.
Labor on average is $99 an hour and I know building, pulling, installing an engine will take time. A solid tune will run you ~$500.
You are already $4-$5K for just for labor!!
Buy good parts for the engine, FAST Intake, new injectors, clutch/stall, all supporting parts...It will not be cheap!
I would also look for a complete engine from Summit, TSP, MAST etc...Sell your LS1 and you will already be ahead.
The labor will still kill you, its ridiculously expensive.
10-10-2013, 09:13 PM
#15
you can find ls383 rotating assemblies for around $1800 ,plus shipping . try to find a good hot rod shop in your area ,and ask them about labor cost .ask your friends for help ,and do the R&R your self.
10-10-2013, 09:16 PM
#16
I used to call my old boss the "dream crusher" because kids came in the shop all the time with a hot rod mag and on the cover was "X00 HP at the wheels for only $3,000" or something similar. Half hour later they were leaving all sad or a drastic change of plans after that "bolt on power" turned into damn near $1,500 in just labor never mind parts. And this is going back to 2003/4 hahah. I know because I was one of those kids, how I got the job there actually.
10-10-2013, 10:16 PM
#18
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey this is the Internet man, gotta say what people want to hear like "oh get that ebay motor for $4,000 that makes 500 HP. You'll be all set, the guys on here with 14k into their motors are idiots. I bet a local guy off CL could probably put it in on a weekend for $200 and a case of beer."
I used to call my old boss the "dream crusher" because kids came in the shop all the time with a hot rod mag and on the cover was "X00 HP at the wheels for only $3,000" or something similar. Half hour later they were leaving all sad or a drastic change of plans after that "bolt on power" turned into damn near $1,500 in just labor never mind parts. And this is going back to 2003/4 hahah. I know because I was one of those kids, how I got the job there actually.
I used to call my old boss the "dream crusher" because kids came in the shop all the time with a hot rod mag and on the cover was "X00 HP at the wheels for only $3,000" or something similar. Half hour later they were leaving all sad or a drastic change of plans after that "bolt on power" turned into damn near $1,500 in just labor never mind parts. And this is going back to 2003/4 hahah. I know because I was one of those kids, how I got the job there actually.
The dream crusher that's great. Sometimes its true tho. Without the dream crushers there is no reality and people get into projects they can never finish because the cost to complete was not thought of properly and they think they know it all. I use to be one of those guys when I started as well. The best advice is usually the advice you don't want to hear.
