Rear Main Seal Installation Questions
10-14-2013, 10:23 AM
#1
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Rear Main Seal Installation Questions I am replacing my clutch and noticed there is oil sprayed in the bell housing and some oil seepage from the bottom of the rear main seal.
I am going to pull the rear cover off, as I want to clean the inside of the bell housing.
I don't have the Kent Moore Alignment or install tool.
I noticed the rear main covers can be purchased from GM new with the rear main seal installed for under $60.
My question is do I need the Kent Moore install and alignment tool to put the cover back over the end of the crank, or do I just buy the new cover with the rear main seal and guide it onto the crank?
Also does the white disc inside then new seal, actually help with the install or is it just there to keep the seal formed prior to installation?
I did a search but it wasn't as conclusive as I wanted. Such as some say to grease the ID of the seal that slides over the end of the crank but the service manual states install dry? Which is it?
I am going to pull the rear cover off, as I want to clean the inside of the bell housing.
I don't have the Kent Moore Alignment or install tool.
I noticed the rear main covers can be purchased from GM new with the rear main seal installed for under $60.
My question is do I need the Kent Moore install and alignment tool to put the cover back over the end of the crank, or do I just buy the new cover with the rear main seal and guide it onto the crank?
Also does the white disc inside then new seal, actually help with the install or is it just there to keep the seal formed prior to installation?
I did a search but it wasn't as conclusive as I wanted. Such as some say to grease the ID of the seal that slides over the end of the crank but the service manual states install dry? Which is it?
10-14-2013, 09:00 PM
#2
All good questions. I replaced the rear seal in my LS-1 even though that was not the problem. I later found out the valve covers need to be vented if not using a PCV. All that aside, I used no special tools for my "Advance Auto" replacement seal, and did indeed put it in dry, cringing in horror while I did so. That was 5 years ago and it hasn't leaked since. Well, since I fixed the valve cover breather situation...
10-15-2013, 07:13 AM
#5
I personally like the let it float and center itself method....it doesnt work on all motors, but it does seem to work on LS motors most of the time with a new seal...
basically, if you already have the cover off, you can put the seal into it, set it on the back of the motor, give the motor a spin over by hand a couple of times, and it will center itself..
tighten the bolts down by hand first to just barely touching, then spin it over again, and then go and tighten them up with your socket/wrench alternating positions as you go
no...its not ideal....but it works, and I havent had a seal on any of my LS engines leak yet because of it
basically, if you already have the cover off, you can put the seal into it, set it on the back of the motor, give the motor a spin over by hand a couple of times, and it will center itself..
tighten the bolts down by hand first to just barely touching, then spin it over again, and then go and tighten them up with your socket/wrench alternating positions as you go
no...its not ideal....but it works, and I havent had a seal on any of my LS engines leak yet because of it
