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Melling 10295 failure

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Old 12-01-2013, 09:31 AM
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Default Melling 10295 failure

Relief valve was stuck open after only 4k miles. Piston was stuck in the bore as well. Has this happened to many others? I know it's common on stock pumps but I thought aftermarket would be better. Maybe a ported ls6 is better?
Old 12-01-2013, 09:39 AM
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The only time I had an experience with that was when the pump was not cleaned before installation.
Old 12-01-2013, 10:41 AM
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Damn I just bought that same pump for my cam swap... bump for the op... what do you clean those things with before installation?
Old 12-01-2013, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by igtabg1
Damn I just bought that same pump for my cam swap... bump for the op... what do you clean those things with before installation?
Brake cleaner, acetone, or even paint thinner will work just fine. I take the entire pump apart before installation and clean it all. I have a set of engine brushes for cleaning the oil gallies in a block that work well for cleaning the bore for the pressure relief. I install the housing first and use feeler gauges to center it. Then the gears go back in after everything is lubed up with assembly lube. Front cover goes on and torqued to spec. Then I lube up the plunger with oil and drop it in with whichever spring I decide to use. Lastly I install the plug with thread sealer on the threads and torque it to spec. If you just crank on it, it could distort the aluminum pump housing and stick the plunger that way too.
Old 12-01-2013, 10:37 PM
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There is a brand of oil pump that uses a check ball and spring for the over pressure relief that claims it never gets stuck but I can never remember the name of the supplier that sells it . I'm going to look for it and i'll post if i find it .
Old 12-02-2013, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Brake cleaner, acetone, or even paint thinner will work just fine. I take the entire pump apart before installation and clean it all. I have a set of engine brushes for cleaning the oil gallies in a block that work well for cleaning the bore for the pressure relief. I install the housing first and use feeler gauges to center it. Then the gears go back in after everything is lubed up with assembly lube. Front cover goes on and torqued to spec. Then I lube up the plunger with oil and drop it in with whichever spring I decide to use. Lastly I install the plug with thread sealer on the threads and torque it to spec. If you just crank on it, it could distort the aluminum pump housing and stick the plunger that way too.
What are the torque specs for the front cover? Do you think I would be good cleaning the relief valve area only and not removing the cover? Just wondering since I too bought one of these.
Old 12-02-2013, 01:27 PM
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Oh **** the sky is falling again!!
Old 12-02-2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
The only time I had an experience with that was when the pump was not cleaned before installation.
Yup, I have the 10296, took mine apart right out of the box and found all kinds of little goodies in there just waiting to go through my motor. Little pieces of cast flashing and what not. Just because its new in the box doesn't mean its ready to stick on the motor and run.
Old 12-02-2013, 01:55 PM
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Car shop inc sells a line of pumps with a ball bearing rather than a piston. Many other options on their pumps that melling dosnt offer.

Tim
Old 12-02-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by VerdeZ28
What are the torque specs for the front cover? Do you think I would be good cleaning the relief valve area only and not removing the cover? Just wondering since I too bought one of these.
I'm pretty sure it's 106in-lbs for the front cover bolts and 96in-lbs on the bypass valve plug, but you may want to double check GM's specs.
Old 12-02-2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
Yup, I have the 10296, took mine apart right out of the box and found all kinds of little goodies in there just waiting to go through my motor. Little pieces of cast flashing and what not. Just because its new in the box doesn't mean its ready to stick on the motor and run.
oh great
Old 12-02-2013, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSS
oh great
Good thing the oil filter is downstream of the oil pump
Old 12-02-2013, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SteelCityYaga
Good thing the oil filter is downstream of the oil pump
Not for the oil pump.
Old 12-02-2013, 09:37 PM
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I have seen a lot of people with complaints on the mellings failing early. We clean and lube all of our ported LS6 pumps before shipping so that you guys don't have to! An oil pump should be a bolt on, not something you have to take apart before installation in my opinion. Sorry to hear about your bad experience OP!
Old 12-03-2013, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Not for the oil pump.
True - but if any particulates are put into the oil stream, they'll get captured by the oil filter.

FWIW, When I installed my Melling 10296, I took it apart to put in the other spring, attach it to the block, lube up the gears and didn't notice any flashing goodies, etc.
Old 12-03-2013, 09:16 AM
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I recently took apart my Melling 10295 and the plunger was stuck as well. It only had roughly 1300 miles on it but the plunger had some scratches on it. I took some 1000 grit sandpaper and little sanded the outside to smooth it back out and cleaned the pump throughly. The plunger seemed to be much smoother after I sanded it lightly. You may try that.
Old 12-03-2013, 05:12 PM
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Hey guys, since there seem to be some problems with the melling pumps, we are going to try to help anyone out that needs to buy another pump and offer our ported LS6 pumps for $125 shipped. Feel free to check out the sale thread here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...l#post17863628
Old 12-04-2013, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Not for the oil pump.
From looking at the 2 diagrams I have in front of me, it goes from pick-up to the pump, down the driver's side of the block to the filter, up to lifters, to the cam, then to the mains, then back to the pan. Front hole near the filter is supply straight from the pump.
Attached Thumbnails Melling 10295 failure-ls1-oil-flow.jpg   Melling 10295 failure-lsx_oil_route.jpg  
Old 12-04-2013, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
From looking at the 2 diagrams I have in front of me, it goes from pick-up to the pump, down the driver's side of the block to the filter, up to lifters, to the cam, then to the mains, then back to the pan. Front hole near the filter is supply straight from the pump.
Correct. The problem is that any junk that wasn't cleaned out of the pump still goes through the pump and can damage the gears and even stick the relief plug.
Old 12-04-2013, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Correct. The problem is that any junk that wasn't cleaned out of the pump still goes through the pump and can damage the gears and even stick the relief plug.
I see what you're talking about, but after hosing it out with brake parts cleaner, shooting it with compressed air, and packing it with assembly lube for priming, the small amount of junk is going to get captured by the filter rather quickly after first start up.


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