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LS1 to LS6.. or just drop an LS6 in?

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Old 12-13-2013, 09:34 PM
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Default LS1 to LS6.. or just drop an LS6 in?

My 01 Z wouldn't start up the other day so after hours of working in 19 degree weather, I decided to send it to the shop. I figured while I was having the internals replaced, I might as well upgrade. I would love to get the compression a C5 z06 has, honestly because of the "tighter" more tame sound. What would you guys recommend? If the bottom end of my ls1 is gone or by any means I need a new engine, I would just have an ls6 crate put straight into my Camaro. I would however like to save a little money and just mod the LS1, with 65k that is in there now, to get it as close as I can to the LS6 that comes in the corvettes.

I am willing to spend some money to get this done, but I honestly don't want to spend over half of the money on heads that will give me +10 more horses than a much cheaper set. Porting the stock 241s is also an option.

Thanks guys!
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:00 PM
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What is wrong with your engine?

I built a LS1 bottom end and put a 2003 Z06 heads/cam/intake on it.

Makes 385RWHP and drives like stock.

You can't find crate LS6 new engines anymore, they are all gone.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:08 PM
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Crate ls6's are awesome......check the sig
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
What is wrong with your engine?

I built a LS1 bottom end and put a 2003 Z06 heads/cam/intake on it.

Makes 385RWHP and drives like stock.

You can't find crate LS6 new engines anymore, they are all gone.
Not intending to argue but the shop I go to CAN find a new LS6 crate engine lol I just spoke with the owner today about possibly getting one put in.

Basically the car is throwing a p0336 code (crank angle sensor circuit blah blah) and after replacing that, checking the spark plugs, pulling off the valve covers, and finally finding a few metal shaving in my oil I figured it was time to send it in to the performance shop I've always gone to and they've never let me down or told me they can't figure it out.

But anyway, you really like the setup you have now? What would a pair of stock 243's bump my compression up to with a 224/228 comp cam?
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:43 AM
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Get a Thompson Motorsport forged 347 shortblock and a nice head/ custom cam combo and reuse your accessories..

A ls6 crate motor is going to come with a lot of stuff you already have that you can reuse.. (Ls6 intake, oil pan, coil packs, etc..)

Not to mention it will make less power than the first option I gave you..
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
Not intending to argue but the shop I go to CAN find a new LS6 crate engine lol I just spoke with the owner today about possibly getting one put in.

Basically the car is throwing a p0336 code (crank angle sensor circuit blah blah) and after replacing that, checking the spark plugs, pulling off the valve covers, and finally finding a few metal shaving in my oil I figured it was time to send it in to the performance shop I've always gone to and they've never let me down or told me they can't figure it out.

But anyway, you really like the setup you have now? What would a pair of stock 243's bump my compression up to with a 224/228 comp cam?
The guy may be able to get you a remanufactured LS6 engine, not a new GM crate engine. Not that I have found anyway, for a good while. You need to make him specify if it is a NEW GM crate engine from GM or a reman from who knows where. New GM crate engines have a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty if I remember right.

I do like the combo in my car now. Makes good power, gets 30mpg on the interstate at the speed limit, traps 115mph at the track. I built it to road race and street drive, it does doth very well.

You will need to "CC" the head chambers on the 243's. Because GM says it's a "X" cc chamber is not always right. I had mine milled 10 or 15 thousanths and I CC'd them and they were 64 CC volume, which is what they were supposed to be from GM. My machinist also CC'd them to confirm....he was shocked. This is why some cars run better than others. A few factors determine CC, like how far the valve is in or out of the chamber after a valve job.

I ALWAYS double check my machinist.

On the compression bump, depends on the piston you use. Stock piston will bump a little higher a forged 4 valve relief piston less of a bump. With a 4 valve relief forged piston like a Mahle, 64cc head and a Fel Pro gasket I was around 10.7 to 1 if memory serves me.

EDIT**

I built a LS1 bottom end with ARP rod bolts, Mahle forged pistons, Katech timing chain, stock Melling oil pump, balanced it. Bought the entire top end off a Zo6 vette and put it on the engine with PAC 1518 springs on the heads. Used fel Pro head gaskets.

To the untrained eye it "looks and sounds" like a stock LS1, but runs like a mild head cam car.

I have surprised a few new 5.0 Mustangs, new SS Camaro's and Grand Sport Vettes with it.

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-14-2013 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:37 AM
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You talk about these like they are two different engines. Slight compression bump from 243 heads, very small cam, and yellow beehive springs are all that really separates these two engines and I bet that "LS6" is a pretty penny. I'd look into a forged 346 something and then you will actually have something better then a stock engine for probably the same money. If I was you I would do a forged 346/7, port your stock 241s and mill for compression, then select a cam that suits your needs. Done!
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
You talk about these like they are two different engines. Slight compression bump from 243 heads, very small cam, and yellow beehive springs are all that really separates these two engines and I bet that "LS6" is a pretty penny. I'd look into a forged 346 something and then you will actually have something better then a stock engine for probably the same money. If I was you I would do a forged 346/7, port your stock 241s and mill for compression, then select a cam that suits your needs. Done!
The "real" LS6 had a slightly different block which a few Fbodies in the later years actually got, lightweight valves in the heads. The LS6 intake which some Fbodies didn't come with, only 01-02 cars did. The difference was about 50-60 hp in stock form.


I have about $4000 in my complete LS1/LS6 with forged pistons, ARP rod bolts, Katech timing chain, balanced all new bearings, water pump, oil pump etc....the way you "should' rebuild one.

I see no need for a "forged" bottom end, stock bottom ends make 550 hp all the time and live. I have stock rods in mine and it gets the crap beaten out of it on road courses on a regular basis. On the flip side a decent set of rods are $400 ish. A forged crank is not needed and most LS engines advertised as "forged" have stock cranks in them.

IMO the LS1/LS6 hybrid is an awesome combination if you want stock driveability and great gas mileage along with pretty good power. Later on if you REALLY want some power, pull the LS6 heads have them ported add a cam and make another 100-125 hp like falling out of a tree.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:33 AM
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Fix bottom end with replacement parts. Port heads. Thinner head gaskets new intake and new cam and call it a day
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:40 AM
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Buy a Texas Speed short block. Your choice of cam and heads and drop it in. Or just have them build you a whole long block. Probably cheaper than a stock new GM LS6 crate engine and better overall. Build it for what you want.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:53 AM
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BTDT Crate LS6 cost me $3500 shipped from Scoggin Dickey in 2010..+ $1400 for the the stuff below etc. = 390 rwhp/386 rwtq .. 1/4 = 12.4 @ 108.. I love it!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...598-resize.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...604-resize.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...635-resize.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...0646resize.jpg

Last edited by Anthony Williams; 12-14-2013 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthony Williams
BTDT Crate LS6 cost me $3500 shipped from Scoggin Dickey in 2010..+ $1400 for the the stuff below etc. = 380 rwhp 366 rwtq.. 1/4 = 12.4 @ 108.. I love it!
Mine was $5200 back in early 02. BTW.......what's wrong with yours? Not to be a smartass but it runs like a mild bolt-on ls1. You should be well into the 11's at 120~
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:42 AM
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Rebuild your stock bottom end or just get a Thompson or TSP 347.

Get ported heads and cam and it'll walk the **** out of a stock LS6 Z06 Vette. If you go radical enough, you can walk stock C6Z06s and ZR1s as well. For a lot less money. And people won't be trying to egg and key your car all the time.
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Rebuild your stock bottom end or just get a Thompson or TSP 347.

Get ported heads and cam and it'll walk the **** out of a stock LS6 Z06 Vette. If you go radical enough, you can walk stock C6Z06s and ZR1s as well. For a lot less money. And people won't be trying to egg and key your car all the time.
Really now? Walk the **** out of Z06's and Zr1's?

The z06 must not have a worth a **** driver in it. A C6 Z06 in stock form makes 450 to the wheels and weighs about 3200lbs, they run really low 11's stock with a good driver.

And a ZR1? Put the pipe down. Stock they run 10's with a good driver. They trap 130+ MPH stock, to get an Fbody to do that takes about 550 rwhp, head/cam aint gonna get you there.

Even a C5 Z06 with just headers and a tune make 390 to the wheels and run in the mid 11's with a good driver.

So you aren't going "walk" or run off from any of the cars you listed with a head/cam 3700lb Fbody unless maw maw is behind the wheel of the Vettes. You may catch one off guard here and there.....but......


Jus sayin.
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:53 PM
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A well set up fbody may not trap as high but it'll ET better. Generally I see fbodies ET better with lower trap speeds. Means the vette has better power to weight and better aero but the gearing,IRS doesn't help it.
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
A well set up fbody may not trap as high but it'll ET better. Generally I see fbodies ET better with lower trap speeds. Means the vette has better power to weight and better aero but the gearing,IRS doesn't help it.
Cosigned. My buddy has a 2007 Z06 with full bolt ons and I walked the HELL out of him multiple times in my H/C/I SS.
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
Cosigned. My buddy has a 2007 Z06 with full bolt ons and I walked the HELL out of him multiple times in my H/C/I SS.
Roll on or dig?
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
A well set up fbody may not trap as high but it'll ET better. Generally I see fbodies ET better with lower trap speeds. Means the vette has better power to weight and better aero but the gearing,IRS doesn't help it.
Ok so better power to weight and aero.

The driver needs to be half assed to get it moving. With better power to weight AND aero the Vette is already ahead of the game, Wouldn't you say?
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Old 12-14-2013, 04:03 PM
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fbodies don't weigh 3700 generally speaking, 3500 is more accurate I'd say.
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Old 12-14-2013, 04:08 PM
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maybe it is a nice Jasper LS6?
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