1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I see the need for factory stroke and ARP studs and Rod Bolt's.

Inflame

iTrader: (2)

Ordered mine! Will file down for ARP rod bolts Came in yesterday, everything looks top notch! Crank scraper and baffle

1 Slow WS6

iTrader: (1)

Ill pick one of those up

maroonls1z

So you say you need to file away material on aftermarket cranks, what is the ideal clearance on these?

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

Is the 4.0 inch stroke scraper ready yet?

I went to the web site and didn't see it.

ImprovedRacing

0.040" +/- 0.020" is what we shoot for. You can use feeler gauges to check the clearances.

ImprovedRacing

Not yet, we are still waiting on a few parts for test fitment. We will get it out as soon as we can.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I'd want to see stock stroke with forged rods and ARP bolts. For a lot of FI builds, guys run either the 5.3 or 6L iron block with the stock crank and h-beam rods and it's a good combo. I don't know if the ARP main studs are a requirement.

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

I bought a crank scraper from Improved Racing that is being installed in 4.0" stroke application. I will start another thread to show what is required to fit for those who can't wait.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

In for results on one of these... I don't have the pan on my 370 yet, debating on whether or not one of these would be worth throwing on.

Any downsides to running one of these? My setup is more street-oriented.

Inflame

iTrader: (2)

I have stock LS1 rods with ARP bolts. I had to add VERY minor clearance, I probably could have gotten away with it if I had pushed the scraper over to the passenger side as I torqued it down, but it was just too close for comfort. Here is a picture of mine.

ImprovedRacing

Are those guys also running forged crank shafts, or are they running the factory crank shaft? Forged or aftermarket crank shafts, even if they are the same stroke, will likely require a different scraper (which is why our scrapers don't fit the LSA).

ARP main studs also require a completely different scraper because the studs are bigger than factory, so all of the holes have to be larger. They are also slightly taller, which will affect the geometry of the scraper a little if we want to maintain the same clearances for maximum performance.

ImprovedRacing

Awesome, thanks for posting the pics! We got a set of ARP rod bolts and we will be updating our scraper to add that little bit of extra clearance. That amount shouldn't hinder performance significantly if using factory bolts, either.

MMorgan9812

iTrader: (6)

Thanks so much!!!!!

FirstGen F-Body

iTrader: (3)

+1

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

Yes please. Forged bottom end on factory stroke with arp studs / bolts here.

I'm not afraid of drilling a couple holes if you don't plan on releasing one though. Let us know.

ImprovedRacing

To clarify, are you using the factory crankshaft or aftermarket? Even if it's the same stroke, a forged crank will require a different scraper than the factory crank.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Factory crank at stock stroke. Anyone who spends the additional money on a forged crank is getting more cubes. But the stock crank is plenty strong for most sub 1k HP builds when used with quality rods.

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

Factory crank, aftermarket rods

ImprovedRacing

Okay cool, thanks guys.