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Old 10-07-2014, 03:52 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing View Post
We'll post up with pics as soon as they're ready!

The new scraper will be designed for:
- 4.000" stroke with aftermarket rods
- ARP main studs
- ARP rod bolts


We will continue to make a scraper for the 3.622" stroke factory bottom end. Does anyone see a need for a scraper for the factory 3.622" stroke with ARP studs and rod bolts?
I see the need for factory stroke and ARP studs and Rod Bolt's.
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Old 10-10-2014, 09:36 AM   #42
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Ordered mine! Will file down for ARP rod bolts Came in yesterday, everything looks top notch! Crank scraper and baffle
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:58 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing View Post
We'll post up with pics as soon as they're ready!

The new scraper will be designed for:
- 4.000" stroke with aftermarket rods
- ARP main studs
- ARP rod bolts


We will continue to make a scraper for the 3.622" stroke factory bottom end. Does anyone see a need for a scraper for the factory 3.622" stroke with ARP studs and rod bolts?
Ill pick one of those up
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:36 PM   #44
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So you say you need to file away material on aftermarket cranks, what is the ideal clearance on these?
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:20 AM   #45
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Is the 4.0 inch stroke scraper ready yet?

I went to the web site and didn't see it.
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Old 10-11-2014, 01:48 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by maroonls1z View Post
So you say you need to file away material on aftermarket cranks, what is the ideal clearance on these?
0.040" +/- 0.020" is what we shoot for. You can use feeler gauges to check the clearances.
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Old 10-11-2014, 01:48 PM   #47
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Is the 4.0 inch stroke scraper ready yet?

I went to the web site and didn't see it.
Not yet, we are still waiting on a few parts for test fitment. We will get it out as soon as we can.
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Old 10-11-2014, 11:19 PM   #48
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I'd want to see stock stroke with forged rods and ARP bolts. For a lot of FI builds, guys run either the 5.3 or 6L iron block with the stock crank and h-beam rods and it's a good combo. I don't know if the ARP main studs are a requirement.
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Old 10-12-2014, 06:21 PM   #49
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I bought a crank scraper from Improved Racing that is being installed in 4.0" stroke application. I will start another thread to show what is required to fit for those who can't wait.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:59 AM   #50
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In for results on one of these... I don't have the pan on my 370 yet, debating on whether or not one of these would be worth throwing on.

Any downsides to running one of these? My setup is more street-oriented.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:01 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeFusion View Post
I'd want to see stock stroke with forged rods and ARP bolts. For a lot of FI builds, guys run either the 5.3 or 6L iron block with the stock crank and h-beam rods and it's a good combo. I don't know if the ARP main studs are a requirement.
I have stock LS1 rods with ARP bolts. I had to add VERY minor clearance, I probably could have gotten away with it if I had pushed the scraper over to the passenger side as I torqued it down, but it was just too close for comfort. Here is a picture of mine.






Last edited by Inflame; 10-13-2014 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:38 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeFusion View Post
I'd want to see stock stroke with forged rods and ARP bolts. For a lot of FI builds, guys run either the 5.3 or 6L iron block with the stock crank and h-beam rods and it's a good combo. I don't know if the ARP main studs are a requirement.
Are those guys also running forged crank shafts, or are they running the factory crank shaft? Forged or aftermarket crank shafts, even if they are the same stroke, will likely require a different scraper (which is why our scrapers don't fit the LSA).

ARP main studs also require a completely different scraper because the studs are bigger than factory, so all of the holes have to be larger. They are also slightly taller, which will affect the geometry of the scraper a little if we want to maintain the same clearances for maximum performance.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:40 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inflame View Post
I have stock LS1 rods with ARP bolts. I had to add VERY minor clearance, I probably could have gotten away with it if I had pushed the scraper over to the passenger side as I torqued it down, but it was just too close for comfort. Here is a picture of mine.
Awesome, thanks for posting the pics! We got a set of ARP rod bolts and we will be updating our scraper to add that little bit of extra clearance. That amount shouldn't hinder performance significantly if using factory bolts, either.

Last edited by ImprovedRacing; 10-13-2014 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:04 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing View Post
Awesome, thanks for posting the pics! We got a set of ARP rod bolts and we will be updating our scraper to add that little bit of extra clearance. That amount shouldn't hinder performance significantly if using factory bolts, either.
Thanks so much!!!!!
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:26 AM   #55
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I see the need for factory stroke and ARP studs and Rod Bolt's.
+1
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:01 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing View Post
We will continue to make a scraper for the 3.622" stroke factory bottom end. Does anyone see a need for a scraper for the factory 3.622" stroke with ARP studs and rod bolts?
Yes please. Forged bottom end on factory stroke with arp studs / bolts here.

I'm not afraid of drilling a couple holes if you don't plan on releasing one though. Let us know.
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:13 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by ckpitt55 View Post
Yes please. Forged bottom end on factory stroke with arp studs / bolts here.

I'm not afraid of drilling a couple holes if you don't plan on releasing one though. Let us know.
To clarify, are you using the factory crankshaft or aftermarket? Even if it's the same stroke, a forged crank will require a different scraper than the factory crank.
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:53 AM   #58
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Factory crank at stock stroke. Anyone who spends the additional money on a forged crank is getting more cubes. But the stock crank is plenty strong for most sub 1k HP builds when used with quality rods.
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:56 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing View Post
To clarify, are you using the factory crankshaft or aftermarket? Even if it's the same stroke, a forged crank will require a different scraper than the factory crank.
Factory crank, aftermarket rods

Last edited by ckpitt55; 10-14-2014 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 10-14-2014, 02:17 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeFusion View Post
Factory crank at stock stroke. Anyone who spends the additional money on a forged crank is getting more cubes. But the stock crank is plenty strong for most sub 1k HP builds when used with quality rods.
Okay cool, thanks guys.
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