CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

So im going to (weather permitting) be removing the trans out of our TA to replace the flexplate. At the same time im going to swap out the torque converter with a CircleD stall unit, installing some LT headers.. so with things coming off I just want to make sure I torque everything back to spec and not miss anything critical.

I have already found the torque specs for the following:
Flexplate to Crank
Flexplate to TC
Motor to Bellhousing
Headers to heads
Axle to U joints(Rear only) since not planning on removing the yoke from the front.

I believe that is everything critical when reinstalling.. just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything else that is important to torque down??

I do plan on cleaning all bolts that im reusing, chasing the threads to clean them out.. and using Loctite on everything.

Is there anything im missing?

I am replacing the rear main seal, so I need to get those specs..

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

The flexplate and torque converter bolts are the most important, the rest you don't NEED to torque down unless you really want to. As long as the other listed things are tight then you'll be good. It might be a good idea to clean off the dowels on the block for the transmission if they are dirty and put some anti seize on them. It'll make it easier if you have to remove the transmission again.

IIRC the rear cover is 18ft lbs. Do you plan on replacing the gasket for that? You should put some rvt on the corners of the cover to prevent any oil leaks. If you have never done the motor mounts, now would be the best time to do them, especially since the transmission is out of the way.

Take your time and good luck.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

That is some excellent information. You will be glad you did.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys for the additional things to do and watch for..
The motor mounts have never been replaced, I was reading early on when I was thinking of doing all this and seems easy and hard at the same time..

Does anyone have a actually good source for replacing them while I have the trans out?
I wanted to do them, but I have 1 weekend or really 1 day to work on the car before the neighborhood association decides to send me a letter... so I cant leave the car undone if I don't finish..

I mean if worse comes to worse, I can remove the trans, move it into the garage and do everything else I can , then lower the car and it would look like it was never touched until I get back to it..

I don't plan on rushing, just trying to take advantage of the time and items I need and want to do..

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

So would these work? or do I have to replace the entire setup?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/en...w/make/pontiac

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Those will work. I got mine from ws6 store. Another thing I replaced when my trans was out was the torque arm bushing with a poly one.

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

I would spend a little more and get the UMI solids. I honestly did not experience that much more harshness/vibration and you don't have to mess with those clam shell mounts ever again..

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=556


ColoradoSpeed has them 10.00 bucks cheaper


here is passenger side on my car..I have tubular K, but these should work fine with factory pedestal.



very nice mounts, almost to pretty to put on the car...

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

ok, the torque arm bushing not familiar with.. is that fairly easy replacement?
Is there only one or two? sorry for the dumn questions, but just want to make sure I order or buy what I need and not be short on parts or supplys.

Is this the one? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/en...w/make/pontiac

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

That looks to the correct part.

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

Starter to block is 37ft-lbs and make sure to use some silver anti-seize on those when you reinstall. The little dust cover surrounding the Starter shouldn't be more than ~10ft-lbs. I stripped mine just trying to get it tight.

I think someone already posted a link to LS1HowTo.com, that's pretty much it. But look into getting some integrated swivel sockets. You know, they have the head already on the swivel. VERY helpful for an auto due to the clearances.

I also lower my K-member a little to get the 4l60e out. Not necessary, but if you do, K-member bolts are 92ft-lbs for the smaller ones and 108ft-lbs for the longer ones.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

everyone thank you very much for all the feedback, suggestions and information.. I hope the weather stays as nice as it is today this weekend so I can get it done or atleast almost done..

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

Something I forgot to ask else where.. everyone keeps mentioning to use the GM gasket for the header install.. is that GM header gaskets? or is it GM manifold gaskets?
Can I reuse the ones on the car now(manifold)?

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

I assume you are installing the bbk headers in your sig?? If so you will need to get a 3" id/od adapter to fit the exhaust to the y pipe since it will be the same diameter as the inlet to the I pipe.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

------------------
Actually no, we got the speed engineering race version headers with the ORY, should arrive tomorrow.. I didn't order the headers with the GM gaskets, as everything I read mentioned using the existing gaskets or getting GM gaskets, but I couldn't find if it was meant as GM header gaskets or GM manifold gaskets

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

GM exhaust manifold gaskets, p/n 12617944

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ets-set-of-2-/

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

I found these torque arm bushings. is this what is being referred to above?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1111r/overview/

If so, since ive never replaced them, and never really seen what it looks like under the car, do I need 1 or 2 since the link says they are sold individually

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Just one. You'll see when you take the transmission out, its on the driver side.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

thanks, got under there tonight to check on the trans mount make sure I had already changed that before ordering the rest of the parts...and checked out the bushing...looks worn, so will be ordering it also.