twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

I have read a bunch of threads on this but most people have had it on the final torque. I was on the first pass to 22 ftlbs and I heard a loud pop. I am pretty sure I had everything out of the threads but even if there was some coolant or something in there I wouldn't think on the first pass it could have cracked the block on that little of torque or am I wrong. Everything torqued down to the final sequence without any other issues. Am I wrong to think on the first pass it could not have damaged the block.

WS.SIX

iTrader: (3)

22ftlbs translates into a lot of psi at the bottom of a blind hole filled with liquid

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Yikes....that was my biggest fear doing my H/C swap. That's why I spent 3hrs cleaning out all the bolt holes.

twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

Like I said I spent time cleaning but things happen. Would it still torque all the way to the last 90 degree pass if the block did crack

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Could just be the bolt torqueing a bit. Remove and inspect.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

The popping is considered normal. It is more likely, and more pronounced with ARP bolts.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Popping yes. But if aloud snap and crack. Report back lol

twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

I am gonna pull the bolt out later today and see what it looks like and stick the boroscope down the hole and hope for the best. Now if it did crack on the first pass would it still be hard to torque to both 90 degree passes. I would think it either wouldn't or be very easy

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I used a blower nozzle stuck down in the bolt holes as far as I could reach to blow out most of the coolant. An old bolt turned into a thread chaser to clean out the old gunk in the threads works well. Then I stuck a mcdonalds straw into the bolt holes and used a shop vac with a crack/crevis tool attacked to suck out all the remaining crap through the straw. After initially breaking the stock bolts loose I never heard another crack or noise on the removal or install. I used ARP bolts with thier lube applied to the threads and washers/bolt heads like the instructions suggested. I hope you didnt ruin your block. G.L. and let us know how it works out.

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

Man I hope it is all okay, hopefully it was just a little debris in the threads...I cleaned and chased mine for what seemed like an eternity. My wrench skipped a tooth on a headbolt when taking off the old heads, nearly **** my pants!

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

the bolts will feel spongy if there is fluid in the hole and you should know well before the bolt is bottomed out if there is fluid in there.

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

the bolts will torque down fine as well... you are cracking the block into a water jacket if i remember correctly.

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

Pull the bolt out and look at the thread. if theres moisture on it then you still have some in the bolt hole.

Take blue shop towels and rip a strand about the width of your thumb. Fold that in half and twist is up tight like you are trying to ring it out. then put that in the holes and see if it pulls out more moisture. If its clean and dry you are good. If theres moisture repeat until its dry.

I pulled one of my heads back off because there was still moisture in there even after using compressed air and a shop vac. Took hours to do, but at least its done right.

twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

I didn't feel anything out of the ordinary bolting it down then the noise. I will yank the head off when I get home and see. If it is I guess a 6.0 is going in sooner then later. I got a line on a lq9 for 850 complete so I could sell the heads off of that and get a little cash back

BATSHANNON

Hi Guys. the last place I worked, we had 2 things we did to all bolt holes in a block. 1. made an extension that screwed into the end of your air nozzle to reach the bottom of the bolt holes and blew til all was clean. We also had an adapt tha fit the shop vac to go down the hole and suck it dry. 2. Machined a small plug with a wide head .the plug fit snuggly down into the bolt hole and the wide head had an "o"ring put under it. Drill and tap and install barb fitting and use Mytyvac to vac test holes. It never failed to show a problem with a bad hole. The alternate was to get a bolt that fits, drill/tap . install fitting FOR SHOP AIR, install an "O" ring under bolt head, install in bolt hole and pressurize suspect hole with shop air. You may have to get something fabbed up at a machine shop, but way cheaper than putting busted parts together. CHEERS TERRY

twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

Well I got the head off and it blew out the bottom of the hole in the crank case I can put the rubber tipped blow gun on it and I hear it in the motor. I am gonna drop the pan and see what I find next and go from there. If that's all it is I may just run it and see what happens

twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

Here is a pic of the hole best I could get with my phone

twinnedfox

iTrader: (12)

Oil pan is off and hole looks to be just in the crank case so I think I am just gonna clean it all again and run it and see what happens

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

The moly lube you put on ARP bolts made the bolt sequence very smooth with no popping for me. I think you'll get some popping as bolts slip into place. Fluid would cause a big pop ahs then it would free spin... Worth pulling it to see tho.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

I'm qiute certain that most on this forum would call that block JUNK !!!
I simply would not run that. Sorry for your loss.......