CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

So ive started on the car again after getting the last of the major parts for the motor, I started removing the heads lastnight and had a few questions.

When I removed the covers and exposed the rockers and springs, everything was a burnt color, not something that would wipe off, is that a sign of bad things else where? or just normal wear?

If normal and nothing to worry about, what is the best way to clean it all up, I am replacing the springs and retainers and seats, so the heads are going to be taken all apart.

The gaskets, should I look into certain type or thickness to replace once I reinstall everything?

And the bolts, ive read that the bolts should all be replaced, will new stock replacements work just fine with some mods to the motor? or should those be stepped up as well?

thanks
Ill try to post a pic of the coloring of the heads if that helps anyone understand what im referring to.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

garygnu

the oil was not changed at regular intervals ,oil cheap oil was used .you can clean it with degreaser or carb cleaner .get a head swap kit from Texas Speed .the stock Gm head bolts are a throw away bolts ,you will need new ones for the head installs .but you will need a torque angle gauge or a snap-on digital torque wrench ,if you use NEW GM TTY head bolts .or get ARP head bolts and use a good torque wrench .REMEMBER to clean out the bolt holes for the head bolts !or you could crack the block .try some MLS .040 head gaskets .

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

what comes in the head swap kit?
Ive ordered a lot from TS already, maybe I already got some of the parts in the kit??

As for the torque angle gauge, I have a few torque wrenches, what additional benefits will I get from the gauge? is it to get more accurate torque? or the torque specs not whole numbers?

Rvn2svn

GM TTY(torque to yield) head bolts require you to use an angle torque wrench. Basically you pre-torque the bolts and then rotate them a specific amount to to ensure they are to spec. The bolt is designed to be "stretched" to its final clamping value. It gets one stretch and that's it. This last rotation is something you do not want to "estimate" or "guess" on. An angle wrench is the only way to get it right.

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

ok, looks like some shopping is in order..

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Do you have that notch in the heads? You'll need to be choosy about your head gasket if you do. Felpro has a mls .041" gasket that will work with the notched heads

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

what notch? If its not raining when I get home tonight, im going to remove the last 2 head bolts and take the passenger side head off the car, so I will know more then..

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

It's about an inch long and 3/8" wide and about 1/8" deep. Check the thumbnail. Early ls1 heads had them. Some 862's were included

If you do, you need to verify your head gaskets will work with this notch. The only MLS ones I can personally vouch for are felpro 1161. Also, due to the notch, the head gaskets are side-specific, so if you put the left gasket in the passenger head, she'll leak.

No idea why that notch is there. Seems kind of dumb to me

CubanGT

iTrader: (3)

Well this project may have just come to a complete stop for a while, UNLESS there is a solution to this issue. After removing the last few bolts, I popped off the head and placed it on the cardboard laid out for it. When I turned back around to look at the pistons and inspect this is what I found..



After soaking up all the water, I wiped it all down dry, came back with a mist of WD-40 and noticed that the upper wall was rough from surface rust..

You can kinda make it out in this pic


Ill post this issue in a separate post, but any suggestions and feedback would be great.. (short of removing the block to rebuild)