wannabeturbo

I'm getting ready to install my new camshaft with Brian Tooley valve springs. They're 155lb@ 1.780 and 400lb@ 1.130. I'm stuck between spending the money for a SLP double roller timing chain set or taking the cheap way out and running a LS2 timing chain. Also, while doing the cam install I was going to replace the oil pump. Is GM part# 12586665 a good oil pump to run?

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Single chain is fine in my eyes, also I would look into the melling oil pumps, I run a high volume one myself and has served me well.

conan

iTrader: (5)

X2 ^^^

I used a LS2 chain and melling HP pump in my Yukon XL LM7 5.3L refresh 3 years ago. Almost at 100,000 miles no problems. Still makes 70+psi of hot oil pressure above idle, and 60 psi at hot idle.
The LS2 chain will fit your stock gear set as well.

wannabeturbo

thanks for replying guys. at what point is the double roller a better idea? I could be way off here but I thought some people did not like the high volume oil pumps do to sucking the pan "dry"

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

A good single is better than a cheap double IMHO. Get a CR5 chain if you want a stronger one. I have the "regular" Melling oil pump. The SLP oil pump though is a good option.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

There is high volume and high pressure I believe! I race mine quite often rev to 7k and slamming gears hadn't had a use with the timing chain yet. This is with a max effort cam in a 346.

wannabeturbo

thanks guys. running the melling pump and ls2 timing chain saved some money almost enough money to buy the valve spring tool over running a oem pump and a double roller cant be upset about that

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Good choice.

wannabeturbo

Do I need to align the oil pump, like checking the rotor to housing clearance with filler gauges, before tightening the bolts down?

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

I never have done that. Simply installed and torque to spec.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

My "How To" books specifically say to align the oil pump, and then torque the bolts to spec in a criss-cross patter. It's going to be spinning at 6,000+ rpm's, it seemed like a good idea to me. I also used some red lock-tite.

gagliano7

Make sure you align the oil pump or you could have problems later with the pump being misaligned. Feeler gauges are cheap.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I center the pump every time. You can use feeler gauges or even strips of paper in a pinch.

You should disassemble the pump and clean it anyways, so while you have it apart, slide the housing on and center it with three feeler gauges. Hold it in position, tighten the bolts, and the feeler gauges should all slide out without much effort. This is why I actually like to use paper because if it takes so much effort to pull out that any of the paper strips rip, its not centered. Once you have it centered and bolts are torqued, use a good assembly lube to grease up the lobes and assemble the pump on the engine.

I've done this on every single pump install, with the engine in and out of the car.

wannabeturbo

I couldn't align the pump because I couldn't get the cover bolts out. If I tried any harder it felt like I was gunna break one. I emailed Melling and they said their pumps don't need aligned..so I hope it's alright.