bbreault

Alrighty. So this is my official build thread. Since there arent any real specific forums for this topic Ive decided to post here sine many of my questions in the future will be involved with internals.

While I am not new to engines and cars, I am fairly new to the LS series engines. I have done extensive research and still have a lot to do but thanks to the community here I have faith Ill be able to find answers to my questions.

This is my second 240sx. My first was a 91 (s13) that I put a lot of work into and I had the intentions of putting an ls1 in it but then I joined the Air Force and I ended up selling it. Once I got to my first station I bought another 240sx. This one is a 96 (s14) 240sx and it came with an SR20DET. While I loved that engine and the boost, I ended up spinning a No. 2 rod bearing and I was going to rebuild it but it was going to cost about 6k and even then it still wasnt going to be imperviosus to spinning bearings again (of which they are noted for). So I made an executive decision to finally do what I really wanted, an ls1 swap. This would give me all the power and torque I wanted on tap, it would be super reliable and easy to get parts for (a lot easier than sr20s). So my mind was made.

The past year Ive torn down the old SR20 and sold a lot of the parts to fund this swap but due to PCSing and having my son, none of that money actually went to it. Lol. Finally in an ok position financially, I found an LQ4 out of a 2000 Silverado 2500. My friend and I pulled in a day but what we found after we pulled the pan off was dissappointing at first. We found a whole bunch of metal shavings. Great. The motor I just had spun a bearing, I didnt wanna deal with that again. But given that the heads looked great, the cylinder walls looked great and the main bearings didnt spin, I decided to take it. I ended up getting it for $261 bucks with the alternator.

After a little more research I found that the 2000 LQ4 crankshafts are longer at the rear, therefore would not mate with a t56 transmission. This actually made me a little happy because the crank was scored so bad that it was junk anyway so either way I would have to replace it with a 2001 or later lq4 crank which could be had pretty easily and cheap.

With a full rebuild in mind, my friend and I tore the whole engine apart. Ended up actually having 4 rods with spun bearings which kind of worries me but all of the main journals look amazing so Im pretty confident everything is gtg.

Now, here is when the fun begins. As I get everything cleaned up and ready for reassembly, I need to choose what I need to get so here is where Id like to get some help. My ultimate goal is to reach 500hp to make a mean street sweeper that will be daily driven. I want it to be comfortable driving and reliable (the main reason for going the ls route). So given the normal swap pieces I also intend on doing a cam, rockers, lifters, pushrods, crank, rods, pistons.

For the accesories there is a particular setup I am looking for and hopefully someone can help me out. It consists of the alternator being underneather the power steering and then the ac on the opposite side. I have looked and see a crap load of diferent mounts but what car did that configuration come in?

Also, being the 2000 year lq4, I have the 873 castings. Sooooo they are Iron and HEAVY. I have read that these heads actually flow very well. Do people recommend keeping those heads for a build? From my understandin I could swap out for the aluminum castings that are identical just off a later lq4 or go the the l92 heads but if the only disadvantage is weight then ill keep them.

Lastly, I know a lot of people will say to just go ahead and do a forged rotating assembly but would a oem rod and piston setup handle the goals I have in mind?

That's all Ive got for now. Hopefully Ill get some good insight an answers here and Ill post some pics of the motor and the car soon. Thanks.

Billdrift

iTrader: (1)

I'm also building a LQ4 in my 240SX but I'm going with a 350 Z transmission Thanks to my buddy Brett Collins @ Collins performance technologies who makes amazing adapter plates

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

Welcome bud...LM7 240sx build going on here.

Ok a few questions/comments:
-Staying NA or Forced Induction?
-Guessing you will be on a T56?
-If you do springs and retainers I would go with BTR they have proven themselves over and over for a great price: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/
-LS6 Timing chain
-The Accessory Drive you are talking about is off the CTS-V. The only problem is that the parts have been on back order from GM since Sept and no one mentions that on their website....just be aware.
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255429...6-engines.html

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Be sure to clean out every oil passage until you are 100% sure there are no shavings left. Take you time with it. That will be most critical in ensuring longevity. There are some here who can outline a good procedure to do so. Are any of the rods showing discoloration from overheating due to the spun bearings?

86Z28USAF

iTrader: (1)

what part of ny you in?

86Z28USAF

iTrader: (1)

keeping a streetable daily at 500hp with a 6.0 is a little difficult staying naturally aspirated. 243 (799) heads are a great flowing affordable head that i recommend. as for the rotating assembly id say do it right this time so down the road you wont have to rebuild. stock rods and pistons would be alright but like i said do it right the first time. In my personal opinion id recommend you building a mild motor set up so you can keep it a streetable daily but throw a nice plate kit on there to help you achieve your goal especially if the rotating assembly will be forged

laurentj23

iTrader: (27)

Are you gonna make your own crossmember mount?

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

@86....Bay Shore Long Island.

86Z28USAF

iTrader: (1)

ah damn you ever out on the streets or do you just do track? im in bellmore

DK

Did this build ever happen?