Spun rod bearing- bottom end ???'s
05-31-2004, 04:47 PM
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Spun rod bearing- bottom end ???'s As the title says. Looking for info on good bottom end components on the 346, with stock crank if possible. Currently running mid 6's on a 125 wet shot. What do you reccomend to be able to run a 200-250 shot on a NX dual stage MAF kit. Can this hold? I am trying to stay semi budget minded as possible. I know I can but the most expensive **** out there, but I am looking for advise on proven components. Thanks
05-31-2004, 04:56 PM
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Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I'm not educated enough to advise you on component selection, but if you don't mind my asking, what caused the bearing to spin, do you know yet?
Josh
Josh
05-31-2004, 05:00 PM
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I have a stock crank and 7 pistins/rods with less than 10K on them... all mint condition if you are interested. All parts from a 2002 LS1 engine. Bearings were all mint but the head dropped a valve seat and destroyed the piston and block... I salvaged the rest though. Make offer!
05-31-2004, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I'm not educated enough to advise you on component selection, but if you don't mind my asking, what caused the bearing to spin, do you know yet?
Josh
Josh
05-31-2004, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SSOnYourSix
I have a stock crank and 7 pistins/rods with less than 10K on them... all mint condition if you are interested. All parts from a 2002 LS1 engine. Bearings were all mint but the head dropped a valve seat and destroyed the piston and block... I salvaged the rest though. Make offer!
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06-01-2004, 01:49 PM
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Well, I t spun a rod bearing and went through much of this but without the foged parts. Yes, they do say that the stock crnmk is pretty good but I can tell you that ,ine endede up being bent over .100" 
So, the way that I see it is if you're gonna get forged pistons and rods than why not do the forged crank also, especially if you're going to hit it with the big juice. It's better to do it now than have to redo it later...
Troy
Just my "still learning" $.02
So, the way that I see it is if you're gonna get forged pistons and rods than why not do the forged crank also, especially if you're going to hit it with the big juice. It's better to do it now than have to redo it later...
Troy
Just my "still learning" $.02
06-01-2004, 02:47 PM
#10
Originally Posted by TK 14 SS
Well, I t spun a rod bearing and went through much of this but without the foged parts. Yes, they do say that the stock crnmk is pretty good but I can tell you that ,ine endede up being bent over .100"
So, the way that I see it is if you're gonna get forged pistons and rods than why not do the forged crank also, especially if you're going to hit it with the big juice. It's better to do it now than have to redo it later...
Troy
Just my "still learning" $.02
So, the way that I see it is if you're gonna get forged pistons and rods than why not do the forged crank also, especially if you're going to hit it with the big juice. It's better to do it now than have to redo it later...
Troy
Just my "still learning" $.02
" is valid 
, but the spun rod bearing had nothing to do with the crank (that was a rod bolt failure) and I have yet to see ANYTHING on broken cranks (even offset ground cranks) so I just think the extra $700 for the forged unit (I got a brand new crank for $350) is money that could go to something else. it all comes down to what helps you sleep at night (ex: I first ordered Comp Pro-mags and for a month worried "did I mess up...should I have baught shaft mount?" and it was driving me nuts
....finally I couldn't take it any longer and had to eat the extra $500 so I could sleep) 
06-01-2004, 02:51 PM
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06-01-2004, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I'd build a 10:1 or 11:1 flattop piston shortblock.
You are not per se looking to make more power n/a just to have stronger pistons.
I am running a stock crank.
You are not per se looking to make more power n/a just to have stronger pistons.
I am running a stock crank.
06-01-2004, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TK 14 SS
Well, I t spun a rod bearing and went through much of this but without the foged parts. Yes, they do say that the stock crnmk is pretty good but I can tell you that ,ine endede up being bent over .100"
But I see your points and John's too! Hey, I redid mine on a new stock crank and stuff so I must not distrust them that much huh?
Troy
06-01-2004, 05:12 PM
#15
Originally Posted by etperformance
As the title says. Looking for info on good bottom end components on the 346, with stock crank if possible. Currently running mid 6's on a 125 wet shot. What do you reccomend to be able to run a 200-250 shot on a NX dual stage MAF kit. Can this hold? I am trying to stay semi budget minded as possible. I know I can but the most expensive **** out there, but I am looking for advise on proven components. Thanks
The guy builds T2 motors for SCCA and is located in Ft. Worth ...
