Counting the cost:
06-03-2004, 01:24 AM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Counting the cost: Hey guys, if I were able to pick up a new cam for say $200, (just a little B1 or T1) how much moolah do you think I'd be looking at for the springs, and install? I'm hoping w/ a cam this small I can avoid the tune, but if you don't think I'll be able to, how much do you think that'll cost also? At this point, I'm so torn between the cam and a TC, that I think I'm just going to go w/ whichever one is cheapest. 
What I really need to do is stop being so careful I guess, and just go for one, but my scrooge side is stronger than my fun side it seems. LOL. Thanks as always for the good advice and patients.
Scott
What I really need to do is stop being so careful I guess, and just go for one, but my scrooge side is stronger than my fun side it seems. LOL. Thanks as always for the good advice and patients.Scott
06-03-2004, 12:01 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Springs and retainers, new will be $300 area. Install will be $300-$500 depending on the shop or person doing, maybe cheaper if you are lucky. Gaskets will be $10. New pushrods, looking at hardened ones, lets say $100. That will be all you need.
You can figure on roughly 6 hours for the cam install, so figure $70/hr for labor at most shops.
You can figure on roughly 6 hours for the cam install, so figure $70/hr for labor at most shops.
PS, your car looks awsome. 
06-03-2004, 12:49 PM
#6
It will be cheapest if you install it yourself.
I bought a new cam ($400)...new titanium retainer and spring package ($180)...double row timing chain ($65)...and all the extras (coolant, oil, crank bolt, magnets, etc...$50)...so I had about $700 in my cam swap.
The spring/retainer package and the timing chain was from Scoggin Dickey (SDPC2000.com)---->
Just shop around for good deals. Also, order the cam swap package from Scoggin Dickey. It comes with all new gaskets and a new balancer bolt. It is THE BEST mod I have done so far! Everything is bone dry...no leaks anywhere.
I bought a new cam ($400)...new titanium retainer and spring package ($180)...double row timing chain ($65)...and all the extras (coolant, oil, crank bolt, magnets, etc...$50)...so I had about $700 in my cam swap.
The spring/retainer package and the timing chain was from Scoggin Dickey (SDPC2000.com)---->
Just shop around for good deals. Also, order the cam swap package from Scoggin Dickey. It comes with all new gaskets and a new balancer bolt. It is THE BEST mod I have done so far! Everything is bone dry...no leaks anywhere.
06-03-2004, 12:54 PM
#7
PS. So far I have done 2 cam swaps, a TC, 3.73 gears, and I will be doing a set of JetHot headers this next week....I have done all these myself with the exception of the gears.
You will like the converter...you will also like a lopey cam...you will also like the SOTP feel of gears....LOL...do 'em all!!!
You will like the converter...you will also like a lopey cam...you will also like the SOTP feel of gears....LOL...do 'em all!!!
Trending Topics
06-03-2004, 01:54 PM
#8
tune....hello people....... 
Everyone today seems to be forgeting the fact that a cam is going require a tune on the car to make it run right. LS1Edit will cost you $550 and time on the dyno will run min of $150-$200. If you just take the car to a shop and have them tune it figure it will be at least $500-$600 and goes up from there.
As far as parts, the MIN cost is valve springs (Comp 918s = $160). After that is gets into thing you "should" do (lifters, pushrods, timing chain, etc....) but won't blow your motor up if you don't.
Most places that I have seen install cams cost between $600-$1000. At that cost you can get A LOT of friends over for LOTS of pizza/beer/hot dogs/etc. and do it yourself (its really not hard to do a cam swap). 
A cam is not a "cheap" mod and it should NEVER be tried to make it cheap because it will bite you in the A$$ as soon as you go to have fun.
Everyone today seems to be forgeting the fact that a cam is going require a tune on the car to make it run right. LS1Edit will cost you $550 and time on the dyno will run min of $150-$200. If you just take the car to a shop and have them tune it figure it will be at least $500-$600 and goes up from there.
As far as parts, the MIN cost is valve springs (Comp 918s = $160). After that is gets into thing you "should" do (lifters, pushrods, timing chain, etc....) but won't blow your motor up if you don't.
Most places that I have seen install cams cost between $600-$1000. At that cost you can get A LOT of friends over for LOTS of pizza/beer/hot dogs/etc. and do it yourself (its really not hard to do a cam swap).
A cam is not a "cheap" mod and it should NEVER be tried to make it cheap because it will bite you in the A$$ as soon as you go to have fun.
06-03-2004, 02:06 PM
#9
True...I do not yet have a tune.
I waited because my first cam (LPE GT2-3) ran perfect w/o one...but now I have the TR224. I am putting headers on the car soon, so I figured I will wait until everything I want to do is done and then I can have it tuned only one time.
Depending on miles, all you should need is a new cam, crank bolt, gaskets, valvesprings, and retainers. New lifters arent really necessary, and since you have an automatic, neither are pushrods (but for $100, it wouldnt hurt).
I waited because my first cam (LPE GT2-3) ran perfect w/o one...but now I have the TR224. I am putting headers on the car soon, so I figured I will wait until everything I want to do is done and then I can have it tuned only one time.
Depending on miles, all you should need is a new cam, crank bolt, gaskets, valvesprings, and retainers. New lifters arent really necessary, and since you have an automatic, neither are pushrods (but for $100, it wouldnt hurt).
06-03-2004, 02:34 PM
#10
Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
Depending on miles, all you should need is a new cam, crank bolt, gaskets, valvesprings, and retainers. New lifters arent really necessary, and since you have an automatic, neither are pushrods (but for $100, it wouldnt hurt).
06-03-2004, 03:05 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Something may have gone wrong for you to blow your lifters at that low of mileage, I have 83k on my stock lifters and never had one problem. I put 10-15k on my last cam setup with stock lifters too, no problems. I didn't want to spend that money on lifters, and then have to remove the heads, not fun.
06-03-2004, 03:18 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Orange Peel
Something may have gone wrong for you to blow your lifters at that low of mileage
most people don't seem to ever have a problem with stock lifters but if I were doing my car again I would have used Comp Rs on the first go around.
06-03-2004, 03:37 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Orange Peel
Might as well put new heads on too since they will be off No sense in taking them off to put the same old crappy ones back on eh?
No sense in taking them off to put the same old crappy ones back on eh? hell...might as well put a big block in.....no point in putting a crappy small block back in eh?
06-03-2004, 04:11 PM
#16
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL 2001CamaroGuy, I love your sig. .... They all sound like that.... LMAO Classic. And on subject, I think I'm going to go w/ the TC. I only have about 1g to spend, and I don't want to go at something half ***. It seems like that's what I'd be doing if I did the cam swap on the cheep. Thanks for all your input. I'll be counting my pennies till next year so I can get that cam swap done right. ... Hell, I've got so many miles on my car now, I'll probably just do the cam come time to re-build my engine. Again, thanks. 
And on subject, I think I'm going to go w/ the TC. I only have about 1g to spend, and I don't want to go at something half ***. It seems like that's what I'd be doing if I did the cam swap on the cheep. Thanks for all your input. I'll be counting my pennies till next year so I can get that cam swap done right. ... Hell, I've got so many miles on my car now, I'll probably just do the cam come time to re-build my engine. Again, thanks.
06-03-2004, 04:37 PM
#17
i'll be glad to help you out for the cam install if you plan on doing it yourself to save money. a used cam 200-250, SDPC springs 178, i'd get the hardened PR's for 110 but thats just me. i have all the cam install tools need but you'll just need a new pulley puller as mine is becoming stripped. then i'd order the larry spring tool, 25 bucks to use on the back springs.
but like i said before, the TC is the best bet.
but like i said before, the TC is the best bet.
06-03-2004, 05:40 PM
#19
A TC, done properly, will cost about $800...if you do it yourself. Here is what I did:
Midwest 3500: $480
GM Deep Pan/ Filters: $120
B&M 24000gvw cooler: $50
Autometer trans temp guage: $45
Fluid: $20
New front and real seals: $25
So that's $740.....you'll also want a trans-go shift kit...those are about $115.
In the end, you'll have between $800-$900 doing a converter. If I had it to do all over again, I would start with headers. Then I would do a converter, then a cam. Then get a tune...
And this assumes that you will not buy a Yank or Vig converter. Those are $700 right there...
My $.02....
Midwest 3500: $480
GM Deep Pan/ Filters: $120
B&M 24000gvw cooler: $50
Autometer trans temp guage: $45
Fluid: $20
New front and real seals: $25
So that's $740.....you'll also want a trans-go shift kit...those are about $115.
In the end, you'll have between $800-$900 doing a converter. If I had it to do all over again, I would start with headers. Then I would do a converter, then a cam. Then get a tune...
And this assumes that you will not buy a Yank or Vig converter. Those are $700 right there...
My $.02....
06-03-2004, 05:43 PM
#20
Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
So that's $740.....you'll also want a trans-go shift kit...those are about $115.
I'm not an auto person so work with me here, but I thought the shift firmness and shift "speed" could be adjusted with LS1Edit. If so, whats the point of doing a shift kit in the 4L60?
