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LS 5.3 mechanical failure/tune failure

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Old 10-22-2015, 08:40 AM
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Default LS 5.3 mechanical failure/tune failure

Hey guys, i've been working on a 56 Ford F100 with a LS swap for a while now. Long story short, I got the truck running with a mail order tune from PCM4Less. Keith @ PCM4Less seems to be a great guy, very knowledgeable and helpful. The motor started out as a junkyard motor. Anyways, I got the motor running and I never put more than maybe 2 miles on the motor. I had it idling in the driveway for a few hours. I did have the truck revved up for about 10 mins to 2k rpm (checking the coolant temp) and noticed the headers started glowing red(too much fuel). The plugs got fouled (carbon), and for whatever reason the ECM is dumping so much fuel into the cylinders, its passing the rings and diluted the oil. Ruined the junkyard bottom end.

Run-down on motor
1st gen LS 5.3 (what i'm told, the head bolts did have 2 different lenghts, from research this seems to be right)
862 heads
58x tooth reluctor wheel (when it was tuned for 24x)
LS2 intake
Edlebrock 90mm drive by CABLE TB
TSP 228R cam
truck MAF
shorty headers
FAST LS2 stock injectors (37lb)
all new sensors, crank/cam/knock/o2
4L60E trans
circle D converter


Here's where I am today.

I pulled the motor and took it to my builder. First off, he told me motor had the older style 5.3 pistons in it, with a 58x reluctor ring.(is this is a Frankenstein motor? I thought the older style LS motors had the 24x ring, unless it was changed.) I was told that this motor was a 24x ring, and that's what it was tuned for. What's odd though, when the truck was running it seemed healthy. Started up the first try and sounded great. I may or may NOT have the right crank sensor in the motor. He said the rings were spun, and recommended a total rebuild. So i'm doing a basic rebuild on the bottom end, nothing fancy. But for the life of me, I can't figure out what happened. Keith @ PCM4less was looking into it, and how he tuned it. Does anyone have any suggestions of any steps I can take, so I don't ruin another bottom end? I'm located in Houston, TX (near the woodlands) and if anyone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated. I always have ice cold beer on hand!
Old 10-22-2015, 09:58 AM
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If you are near Houston there should be a number of local tuners who could get you a solid street and/or dyno tune.

A mail order tune is no substitute for a full true tune on a car with a cam and larger injectors IMO.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:04 AM
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Do you remember where the knock sensors were in the block? Up top in the valley would be a Gen III and on the sides near the oil pan would be a Gen IV. You are right, the Gen III engines should have a 24x reluctor.

What shop do you have the engine at?

I'm in Mexico for work, but when I get back in the week or so, I can lend a hand.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Do you remember where the knock sensors were in the block? Up top in the valley would be a Gen III and on the sides near the oil pan would be a Gen IV. You are right, the Gen III engines should have a 24x reluctor.

What shop do you have the engine at?

I'm in Mexico for work, but when I get back in the week or so, I can lend a hand.
My motor is at a local builder in spring texas. His name is Herb Glasemen. He rebuilt a few stroker motors for my father in law with great success. Any help would be great! I have no problem getting the motor in the truck. I just need help figuring out what is causing this, so I don't ruin another motor.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
If you are near Houston there should be a number of local tuners who could get you a solid street and/or dyno tune.

A mail order tune is no substitute for a full true tune on a car with a cam and larger injectors IMO.
I agree with you. However, I have spoke to a few of the "well known" tuners and they don't want to touch my build. I even had one tell me he didn't want to touch it because its "pieced together." Which I agree, it is a Frankenstein motor. If I could find a local place that could dyno tune the truck in a full day, I would be willing. I have alot of money invested in the truck, and I really don't want the truck sitting in someone elses shop overnight. I'm very **** about it, i've spent a crap ton of money, blood, and sweat on the damn thing.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Do you remember where the knock sensors were in the block? Up top in the valley would be a Gen III and on the sides near the oil pan would be a Gen IV. You are right, the Gen III engines should have a 24x reluctor.

What shop do you have the engine at?

I'm in Mexico for work, but when I get back in the week or so, I can lend a hand.
Knock sensors are up top, underneath the intake.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 91frppgt
I agree with you. However, I have spoke to a few of the "well known" tuners and they don't want to touch my build. I even had one tell me he didn't want to touch it because its "pieced together." Which I agree, it is a Frankenstein motor. If I could find a local place that could dyno tune the truck in a full day, I would be willing. I have alot of money invested in the truck, and I really don't want the truck sitting in someone elses shop overnight. I'm very **** about it, i've spent a crap ton of money, blood, and sweat on the damn thing.
Have you tried Patrick Guerra? He is in Victoria and is very good at what he does. He's tuned my car and numerous others that I know.

Originally Posted by 91frppgt
Knock sensors are up top, underneath the intake.
Then that should be a Gen III engine. I don't know how it could have a 58x wheel but the truck engines can be weird like that I guess. The 58x is easily distinguishable from the 24x because the 58x is a single piece and the 24x is two pieces.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Have you tried Patrick Guerra? He is in Victoria and is very good at what he does. He's tuned my car and numerous others that I know.
No I have not, do you mind passing his info along? You can PM me if you want too.

Thanks for the help!
Old 10-22-2015, 11:00 AM
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He's an Administrator on here.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=210

http://www.guerragroup.com/#!motorsports/c1y41
Old 10-22-2015, 11:39 AM
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/\

thanks for the help! I will contact him!
Old 10-26-2015, 04:58 AM
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It sound like your injectors weren't tuned for you application. The truck injectors have have smaller injectors than the ones you put it in. The new ones without the right injector data would dump to much fuel and cause your problem. What color is your crank sensor? Black would be 24x and gray could be 58x.
Old 10-27-2015, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gagliano7
It sound like your injectors weren't tuned for you application. The truck injectors have have smaller injectors than the ones you put it in. The new ones without the right injector data would dump to much fuel and cause your problem. What color is your crank sensor? Black would be 24x and gray could be 58x.
thats what I was thinking too. I will definitely be getting another tune before I fire up the motor. The crank sensor is black. Is there a way to test the coolant temp sensor to see if its still good? Thats the only sensor I haven't replaced, which came with the "junkyard" motor. I'm guessing i could OHM the sensor...



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