customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

New to the forum!

Im in the process of swapping a supercharged 5.3 truck motor into my 87 firebird.

I did a oil pan swap and went with a new OEM GM Fbody oil pan and GM oil pan gasket, windage tray and pickup. I did not know to put RTV in the corners. Am I going to leak? I'm pissed I didn't know this before... its my first LS!

I scraped the surfaces clean before install and didn't really see any sealant there. But I dont want this to get messy. I would have to drop the pan with it in the car to do this so i just want to know if its worth it or not.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

More than likely. You're supposed to put a dab in the four places where the gaskets "tee" together. You also need to be very careful on how you tighten the cover bolts and pan bolts. If you tighten the pan first you risk breaking the cover plate as it can't move to pull in.

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Yes you will. I leaked about 2 quarts in prob 30 seconds of first start up.

Just loosen the bolts and drop the pan a couple inches, apply silicone at the back of the pan primarily (at least that's where mine leaked but proper procedure may be to rtv all surface of pan, not sure).

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

Yeah its probably going to leak. Not trying to sound like an ads, but if you don't line up the front and rear covers with the lil pan correctly using the J tool it's going to leak ask me how I know lol. And rtv on the corners is a must, mine leaked all over my headers once before without it. It is possible to have no leaks without using the Kent Moore tool, but for me better safe than sorry and use it to make 100% sure of no leaks

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

The proper procedure is the two spots in the front corners and the two places in the back corners where the pan and cover gaskets tee together. Then follow the tightening sequence and torque.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys,

I can't see how it will leak given that the oil pan gasket has a 1 piece silicone/rubber seal even at the joints. But I will take your word(s) for it lol. Why is pan alignment such and issue? My thoughts is that with the LS style trans the bellhousing pulls against it which can break things. Im not running an LS trans but a 2004R which doesn't contact the oil pan at all so I'm worried less about pan alignment.

Basically what I did was pull the pan with the engine fully assembled and swap the tray, pickup and pan out and bolted it back on. The bolts didn't really allow much if any play of the oil pan and was rather difficult to get the bolts through the gasket seals in the bolt holes. What is this tool everyone is referring to? Is it really neccessary even if I'm maybe going to do this 2 times ever lol.

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

If you didn't loosen the front or rear cover to drop/swap pans, alignment should not be an issue. I cracked two oil pans at the front by tightening the front and rear cover bolts before tightening the oil pan bolts. But since your oil pan was removed with the front and rear covers still on, you shouldn't have to worry about oil pan alignment.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, So I guess I need to drop the pan and add the RTV and then retorque the bolts. Ugh so annoying that I didn't know this step.

So what is the correct sequence to put the pan on?

Gathering from what you said... if I ever pull the front or rear covers what is the sequence to align and put the oil pan back on?

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

There is a sequence, I've always looked it up before I did it... I've only done it 3 times, so it's not memorized but I'd see it and say "oh yeah."

As long as the oil pan wasn't removed, just reinstall the front cover. I don't own the patented "align it" tools or whatever they sell, but I haven't had a problem yet. The way I see it: if you removed the front cover and left the oil pan in place, how would you "pull" the oil pan to a proper alignment if it was secured to the block?