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Building the Beast - 383 supercharged with Mamo top end
Decided to do a build thread for my new combo. I just got this combo “done” about a year ago but got in a rush to get it on the ground and to the track so saved some stuff for this winter
Background on the car
I got this car about a year ago now, sparkly purple sitting on the side of a barn lol. Guy bought it and it sat so I bought it. I was going to part it out and finally finish my other car but I couldn't do it. Love these cars. Anyways, there were a lot of random parts on the car, designed to be a show car, automatic, mild TC, stock bottom end with a mild cam (Futral 228/232 585/595 113+1), stock heads, hooker 1 5/8 LTs, Weiand intake and nitrous with some suspension parts. I didn't spray the car but it was pretty quick after just changing plugs/O2 sensors and some cleanup. I was planning on doing a quick track run but after closer inspection the rear main seal was leaking oil and there was a ground wire caught between the head and the block So I started tearing the car down and could not stop over the past winter lol. I pulled everything out of the car except the dash, which I should've pulled too but I will this winter to clean up wiring.
All my current build and projected mods are below. I’ll try to list everything but I’m sure I’ll have to add to this and change some stuff as I learn. I tend to do things overkill so I don’t mind switching stuff up a few times to figure out what I want.
Current build
231/239 .617/.624 115LSA
Stock heads, PRC dual springs .650, trunion upgrade
LS6 intake
80lb siemens deka Injectors
Holley fuel rails
Stock TB/MAF
ATI damper 917302
Katech tensioner
8 3/4" procharger crank pulley (Bob @ Brute Speed is awesome)
Procharger D1SC
4.0" 8-rib head unit pulley
Aster bracket
Gatorback 8 rib belt
Spal 16" fan
Big red blowoff valve
Alky Injection dual nozzle kit (Julio is great)
31x12x4 Godspeed FMIC w/ 3" piping
larger K&N filter
Hooker SuperComp 1 5/8" LT, ORY w/ cutout, & catback
Calliee compstar crank 4.0 stroke 24x reluctor ring
Callie's compstar rods 6.125 w/ ARP 2000 bolts
Wiseco pistons dish 3.903 -15cc (9.8:1 CR)
Clevite bearings
LS7 lifters
Melling oil pump
Cloyes Race billet timing chain
Edelbrock split front cover
Moroso 7qt steel oil pan
NGK TR6 plugs (gapped .030)
MSD wires (custom)
MSD starter
LS1 coil packs (relocated to frame rails)
ARP head studs
Catchcan breather system (Mighty Mouse, what a big help with lots of different questions) w/ custom line
GZ motorsports vacuum pump w/ custom lines
BeCool radiator
160* t-stat
SLP fan control
LS2 water pump (w/ Aster bracket mod)
Optima Red top battery
Battery relocation
FUEL SYSTEM
Racetronix dual pump 680Lph
10an feed/return (black PTFE braided) (Larry @ TechAFX for all my custom lines)
Aeromotive inline filter 12324
Aeromotive boost ref FPR 13110
4L60E automatic transmission
-Level 4 by RPM Trans in Anderson, IN (Jeremy has been a great help)
-Coan 10" street torque converter
TCI deep trans pan
TCI flex plate
Moser 9" rear (borrowed from street build)
-3.50 gear
-True trac carrier
-31 spline axles
-transverse shock mount
3" aluminum DS w/ upgraded yokes
Prothane Poly motor mounts
BMR tubular front suspension (Kyle Briese @ BMR has helped me a TON!)
-k member & a-arms (adj, rod ends)
BMR boxed SFCs
BMR XD torque arm & weld in crossbrace w/ safety loop
BMR LCAs, XD chromoly adj rod end
Viking 18 way dual adj front/rear coil over shocks (Kevin @ Midwest Chassis has been a big help also)
BMR rear panhard bar (chromoly, double adj) w/ relocation kit
BMR XD anti-roll bar (for street build)
BMR manual steering rack
8.50 cert cage built by Norm Boutot (John Force Racing) (NHRA certified)
RHS 5-point harness
Baer 6 piston front brakes w/ slotted/drilled rotors (for street build)
Stock rear calipers red w/ Hawk pads & Baer slotted/drilled rotors
Bogart Wheels 15x4 and 15x10 for the strip (for street build)
ZR1 replica black corvette wheels 17x11 & 17x9 for the street (for street build)
SJM Line lock & ABS delete (great company, emailed me back at 1AM w/ info & helped me customize my kit for what I wanted to do)
Lokar black Oil & Transmission dipsticks (great company and great customer service)
Lokar black throttle cable/bracket w/ cruise control delete
Lightweight carpet
AC delete (complete)
NGK Wideband
SpeedHut gauges (for street build)
Tuned by Mike Norris Motorsports (great guy and great tuner! Has helped me build most of my car also)
-2 bar map sensor upgrade
-stock MAF tuned
New Mods
MMS 220 heads w/ all the upgrades, CNC+,8019 springs / Ti retainer Hollow intake; 64cc; 10.0CR
FAST 102mm (Mamo ported) (Tony Mamo is awesome too. A lot of help with the new engine mods. I haven't known him very long and he has put up with quite a few questions from me so far and helped me every time)
FAST fuel rail kit black
ID1300 injectors
Mamo Spec'd cam (w/ request to be more aggressive)
-233/242 .618/.615 115LSA
Johnson self oiling short travel lifters
Yella Terra Pro 10mm rockers
Manton custom length pushrods 11/32 X .120 wall
NW 102mm TB
Kurt Urban Steam vent kit
Spal 9” puller fan (and 13" fan)
Kooks 1 7/8” LTs TDs no cats
Behind Bars Race Cars sump gas tank
Holley Ultra Dominator dual pump fuel system w/ dual speed controllers
Fuel cell for Alky kit (to order)
Grant Race Steering Wheel w/ quick release hub
Racecraft lightweight steering column
VFN 5” sloped WS6 hood
Holley Dominator computer system
Lingengelter 2-step
Autometer & Holley Gauges
Racewire Solutions Switch panel & full custom wiring system (Brian Black is an awesome guy too, runs an outlaw class firebird and makes custom harnesses for our cars)
Flaming river battery cutoff switch w/ Moroso rod kit
Kirkey race seats/covers
TH400 trans w/ TCI Outlaw shifter
B&M Trans cooler w/ fan
ATI Fuel & Blown 9" TC (Mamo & JC Spec'd)
MWC Fab 9
3.50 gear
Aluminum pro carrier
40 spline axles
transverse shock mount
some extra mods
extra carrier for 1/8 mile racing (maybe)
MWC full front & rear complete suspension
MWC front/rear bumper supports
Billet Specialties StreetLite black wheels (15x4 & 15x10)
Mickey Thompson ET Drags/skinnies
Strange drag race brakes front/rear
First time to the tuner I had lots of issues. Left the car there so he could do a 2 bar map sensor. But I didn’t know the intercooler piping needed to be bead rolled so that was popping off. I had an oil leak, a trans line leak, lots of issues. The car would either climb to about 8lbs of boost and just hang there or drop off. There was no belt slip. I think it was the blow off valve but I’m not sure. I cleaned it up quite a bit and got it back to the tuner.
The second time I went, the car was running pretty well. I had some issues with the fan wiring and worked on it the night before and of course then wasn’t working at the tuner. Figured out the relay was broke after a nice overheated engine compartment burn to the arm. Switched to the other relay (as I have just a single fan) and everything was fine. Well, almost fine. So after watching Mike, frustratingly working on the car, he tells me the battery is almost dead and the car voltage is only running about 10.8 volts so he could not finish tuning the car because none of the sensors were working properly. So my brand new Power Bastards alternator was faulty and I can’t remember where I bought it and couldn’t find the receipt. So I stole the Powermaster alternator from my other build when I got home and fixed it up. Definitely won’t buy anything but Powermaster from now on for alternators.
After I changed the alternator I got out to the track a couple times.
The first time out I have my 4.11 rear end gear with 28” mickey Thompson ET drag slicks and street tires up front. I have all the shocks set at midrange for both settings just to start. I will learn as I go.
I ran a 11.15 @ 125 with 1.7 60’ just launching off idle
For some reason I could not get the car to load up rpm at the line. It kept pushing me through and making me foul. I figured out it was a combo of not pushing the brake hard enough lol, and the proportioning valve for my brakes needed to be adjusted quite a bit. That helped out a lot, but didn’t figure that out until the 2nd and 3rd track runs this year.
For the second time out I had swapped to a 3.42 gear with 26” mickey Thompson et drag slicks and street tires up front
I ran a 11.21 @ 120 at best. I was able to launch a little better so worked my way down each run for 4 runs before we ran out of time at the track.
For the third time out. That was just yesterday. I put the skinnies on the car and was able to load the car pretty well off the line. Also it was quite a bit colder. Only in the 50s instead of the 70s and 80s like with the last 2 track days.
I ran a 10.51 @ 129 at best. Really happy with this one
So I'll probably take awhile to do all my upgrades but I figured I'll get the thread started. I'll probably need some help along the way
So before I do all the upgrades I wanted to get one good track day in. Which I got in yesterday. I know the car has more in it the way it sits but I don't want to wait to upgrade lol. I was spinning for the first time yesterday and I started messing with the shock adjustments and got worse and started to work my way back. I'll do more testing next season.
Also, I want to get the car on the dyno and get the numbers when it’s actually running well. So I’m leaving the car on the trailer from the track and going straight to Mike Norris Motorsports on Tuesday morning for some final numbers before the Mamo top end mods. It won’t be a direct comparison but I’m definitely going to be curious of the increases. With my heads just being stock now I think I’ll see some pretty awesome gains. I’ve read about some great gains with Mamo’s ported FAST 102s over the LS6 intake as well. Some shops say they’re not good for boost but Tony said it should be fine. We will find out.
It's good to see you're making a lot of progress, congratulations! Bob
Thanks Bob! I was definitely happy to actually get a couple good runs with the car. I go see Mike tomorrow. I'll post up dyno results after I get them.
Nice improvement there. Car is definitely moving out. Nice hauler there too. My next one will be metal like that.
Thanks. It's been a lot of work but it's fun. Especially with some success at the track
Thanks again. I just got the car hauler. I was spending way too much on renting trailers lpl. And this is my first complete build so I might need it. The aluminum is crazy light too.
Just left Mike Norris in Indy and got my dyno numbers. What a great guy. Of course I had a couple issues and we were just supposed to do a couple dyno runs and he helped me figure them out so I could get an accurate number. Which I'm crazy grateful for seeing I drove 2.5 hrs down. One of the issues was my #7 plug wire came loose. Must have been at the track cause I changed the plugs before I left for the track Saturday and it ran good the first two runs and then started running quite a bit slower. I thought I mistuned the suspension but guess it wasn't all that
So I made 630rwhp and 605 torque with the cutout open. 613/594 closed.
I'm definitely happy with these numbers. Boost gauge is reading 10.5# max boost and Mike left the car running a little rich for now. He wasn't really scheduled to do any tuning for me but spent a little time on it anyway. Torque curve looks pretty good too. About 375 off the throttle. Temperature is 45 outside. I know that plays a big role too because the butt dyno doesn't like hot days lol
No way this thing sits all winter long with all these brand new upgrades recently done. If all the local tracks are closed for the season, then I think it's time to use that nifty trailer of yours, and find a track that's open. Your car is going to scoot, for sure.
And it will only get faster as you fix all the little stuff and really dial in the tune, and get your suspension adjusted correctly.
So the 630 number is without the Mamo parts? That's the baseline after you ran at the track at 10.5@129?
Be interesting to see how much you pick up. I would imagine the heads alone would be worth 60-70hp and the change in cam would be another 30. You could be knocking on the door of 750 with the meth, better heads, and better exahust. I think that's about as much as you can get out of the D1 since typically the most is ~800rwhp thru an M6 with meth. Might be worth it to ugprade to a F1D... which is just the D1 compressor in an F1 housing with the F1 step-up gearing. It would keep the power curve similar, reduce the inlet temps, and make another 50-75HP at the same boost level.
No way this thing sits all winter long with all these brand new upgrades recently done. If all the local tracks are closed for the season, then I think it's time to use that nifty trailer of yours, and find a track that's open. Your car is going to scoot, for sure.
And it will only get faster as you fix all the little stuff and really dial in the tune, and get your suspension adjusted correctly.
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. I'm actually even stalling to tear the car down cause it's so awesome outside. I'd like to get to the track one more time Mike thinks I could push the car to real low 10s with where it sits right now. He did a little tuning while I was there Tuesday and I was just getting started with the suspension before the plug wire came off. Wish I would've realized. I just need some track time but now the garage is full of goodies lol
So the 630 number is without the Mamo parts? That's the baseline after you ran at the track at 10.5@129?
Be interesting to see how much you pick up. I would imagine the heads alone would be worth 60-70hp and the change in cam would be another 30. You could be knocking on the door of 750 with the meth, better heads, and better exahust. I think that's about as much as you can get out of the D1 since typically the most is ~800rwhp thru an M6 with meth. Might be worth it to ugprade to a F1D... which is just the D1 compressor in an F1 housing with the F1 step-up gearing. It would keep the power curve similar, reduce the inlet temps, and make another 50-75HP at the same boost level.
Yes the 630 was just how the car sits now. Ran real good.
That's why the last dyno trip. I wanted to see what it truly gained. Before it only dyno'd 560 but the power bastards alternator wasn't putting out the volts and didn't figure it out until I got down there.
I've talked to Bob about upgrading. I don't know how hard I can push this block. We'll see. I'm sure I'll end up with something different but I'd like to max this one out and work on track times.
Awesome build! Any pics of the engine? Thinking of the custom lines on vacuum pump.
Thanks!!!
I can take some more of how I routed it close up and post later. You can see the pump mounted on the passenger side and then I mounted the catch can where the battery used to be. I thought about moving this in the fender well to increase the length of hose from the vacuum pump to the catch can which would help condense more oil. And also keep the can cooler which would help also. So far I get very little oil smell so I left it alone... For now
Also, the pump in this pic is from GZ. I sold this to a buddy and bought Mighty Mouses race can because I like it and it's black
As for the routing. GZ sells the kit with a 12an line and fittings which hook up to a fitting that goes to your oil cap. Greg said this was plenty for my setup. But, Instead of that I decided to make 2 - 10an lines from each valve cover to a T and then to the vacuum pump. On the driver side I had a bung welded into the valve cover in the back by the firewall. On the passenger side I used the oil cap fitting (which I'm going to change to a bung in the back, I don't like the way the oil cap fitting seals and it's annoying to deal with) but I ran the line back toward the firewall to meet up with the T. That way it was out of the way. Then I put an elbow on the T in order for everything to run without kinking anywhere. I'll take a few pics but there is endless ways to do it.
If you have any issues when you're doing it, whenever you get to it, just PM me.
I got all my lines for everything from Larry @ TechAFX. I wanted black line and wanted Teflon for fuel but wanted everything to match so just used it for everything. It's hard to work with but oh well. I just got all the lines and fittings from Larry and made my own. He will even make them for you if you pre measure. I actually had him make me custom lines for my vacuum pump. Again I wanted them black and mounted everything a little different than Julio does. As for the gauge. The T that I bought I got with an 1/8 npt port on it for gauges. Think I got that one on eBay.
That block would hold 850rwhp all day long. You could do an F1C for example, and really have headroom, but you lose some lowend. Which may not be a bad thing. The F1D would give you more headroom, but still act a lot like what you have now.
11-08-2015, 01:05 AM
Building the Beast - 383 supercharged with Mamo top end 
So I started tearing the car down and could not stop over the past winter lol. I pulled everything out of the car except the dash, which I should've pulled too but I will this winter to clean up wiring.
