I found the reason to my low hot oil pressure at idle...
06-11-2004, 03:35 PM
#2
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Geez o'pete, man. That's about what mine looked like when I popped mine off. It's amazing that it even has any pressure with it all knurled up like that. Good thing you're catching it now instead of on the road.
06-11-2004, 03:38 PM
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Ah, the dreaded o-ring. There has got to be a better way to seal the pick-up tube to the oil pump.
Last year I mated a gasket between the pickup tube and the oil pump and RTVed it. I also used two o-rings....it ran fine until I broke my valvespring. I ran it for a few thousand miles and when I took it apart everything looked exactly as I had sealed it up....maybe this is a solution, but I did not run it long enough to get conclusive results from it.
Last year I mated a gasket between the pickup tube and the oil pump and RTVed it. I also used two o-rings....it ran fine until I broke my valvespring. I ran it for a few thousand miles and when I took it apart everything looked exactly as I had sealed it up....maybe this is a solution, but I did not run it long enough to get conclusive results from it.
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06-11-2004, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
Lube it up and slide it in gently...
...but I guess that doesnt guarantee you wont have problems either. LOL...
...but I guess that doesnt guarantee you wont have problems either. LOL...
06-11-2004, 05:44 PM
#10
If you ever have the oil pan off or the engine out of the car, the best thing is to lengthen the bolt hole on the pick up tube to keep stress off the oring. If you put the pick up tube in from the bottom with the oil pan off it goes in real smooth with no chance of the o-ring getting chewed up. Of course getting the pan off is a huge pain in the *** unless the engine is out of the car or you have a tubular k-member. Of course i'm guessing yours was done out of the car cause it's a built 427.
06-11-2004, 10:04 PM
#11
Originally Posted by P Mack
If you ever have the oil pan off or the engine out of the car, the best thing is to lengthen the bolt hole on the pick up tube to keep stress off the oring. If you put the pick up tube in from the bottom with the oil pan off it goes in real smooth with no chance of the o-ring getting chewed up. Of course getting the pan off is a huge pain in the *** unless the engine is out of the car or you have a tubular k-member. Of course i'm guessing yours was done out of the car cause it's a built 427.
I know how to install oil pump o-rings and have done it over 20 times with no issues.
Part of the reason for the chewed up o-ring is on the oil pump itself.
The area/lip in the oil bump that mates against the outer lip of the o-ring is galled and created small sharp edges. My guess is when the oil pump was deburred/ported the machinist performing the work grazed the o-ring mating portion of the oil pump thus creating the galled surface. It went un-noticed and led to this situation.
I would personally like to thank Jason99T/A at ThunderRacing for getting me a replacement deburred/ported/blueprinted and shimmed oil pump w/a new o-ring.
I now have proper oil pressure. I have 62 PSI on cold start, 25 PSI at hot idle (up from 13 PSI before swap) and the PSI at hot idle the needle holds steady instead of flickering b/w 5-6 PSI variances.
06-12-2004, 11:46 AM
#12
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
I didn't build nor install this motor. MTI did.
I know how to install oil pump o-rings and have done it over 20 times with no issues.
Part of the reason for the chewed up o-ring is on the oil pump itself.
The area/lip in the oil bump that mates against the outer lip of the o-ring is galled and created small sharp edges. My guess is when the oil pump was deburred/ported the machinist performing the work grazed the o-ring mating portion of the oil pump thus creating the galled surface. It went un-noticed and led to this situation.
I would personally like to thank Jason99T/A at ThunderRacing for getting me a replacement deburred/ported/blueprinted and shimmed oil pump w/a new o-ring.
I now have proper oil pressure. I have 62 PSI on cold start, 25 PSI at hot idle (up from 13 PSI before swap) and the PSI at hot idle the needle holds steady instead of flickering b/w 5-6 PSI variances.
I know how to install oil pump o-rings and have done it over 20 times with no issues.
Part of the reason for the chewed up o-ring is on the oil pump itself.
The area/lip in the oil bump that mates against the outer lip of the o-ring is galled and created small sharp edges. My guess is when the oil pump was deburred/ported the machinist performing the work grazed the o-ring mating portion of the oil pump thus creating the galled surface. It went un-noticed and led to this situation.
I would personally like to thank Jason99T/A at ThunderRacing for getting me a replacement deburred/ported/blueprinted and shimmed oil pump w/a new o-ring.
I now have proper oil pressure. I have 62 PSI on cold start, 25 PSI at hot idle (up from 13 PSI before swap) and the PSI at hot idle the needle holds steady instead of flickering b/w 5-6 PSI variances.
Levi,
shouldnt you be more like 40 psi at idle?????
Kyle
06-12-2004, 11:47 AM
#13
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Levi,
shouldnt you be more like 40 psi at idle?????
Kyle
shouldnt you be more like 40 psi at idle?????
Kyle
Last edited by CANNIBAL; 06-12-2004 at 12:50 PM.
06-12-2004, 12:43 PM
#14
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With the forged motors, idle oil pressure can be any where from 15psi to 40 psi. Just depends on your bearings clearances. 40 psi for a hot idle is pretty high, most guy's with forged engines probably only see 20-30 psi.
Let me know if you need anything in the future.