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Iron LS1 build for S chassis

Old 03-25-2016, 04:39 PM
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Default Iron LS1 build for S chassis

Hey guys, though I'd post up my build list in hopes of some constructive criticism on it. I'm in school for engine machining right now and am going to be building the heads this year and building the block and finishing the motor in the fall of 2016 as of right now. Anyway for the motor my plans right now are NA with future boost in mind. So I wanna do it once and do it right.
Stock machine specs besides the 3.898 bore.

Heads:
Stock valves, cut new seats and hardened exhaust seats
LS6 springs and retainers
LIGHT port on the intake runners and polish the exhaust
LS3 rockers

Block:
Forged LS1 pistons. open to suggestions
Stock rods, arp bolts
Stock crank
ARP main studs and ARP head studs
LS3 cam, lifters and pushrods
GM or fel-pro headgasket
Good bearings. open to suggestions
LS3 timing set

Iduction:
Custom alum. intake
78mm TB?? Not sure what stock is
Ford svo 42# injectors

Timing:
LS3 coilpacks.. open to suggestions here too


This is as far as I have thought for the engine aspect of the build. I have the T-56 in mind for the transmission. Planning on getting the HPtuners flashed ecu and wiring specialties harness. I love custom **** and I plan on developing this motor setup as time goes on. 600 whp is my goal once it is turbo but I have no NA goals. CHIME IN please but be constructive, this is my first motor I'm building.
Old 03-25-2016, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Createaaron
Heads:
Stock valves, cut new seats and hardened exhaust seats
LS6 springs and retainers
LIGHT port on the intake runners and polish the exhaust
LS3 rockers
Since you're using an LS1 based build, I'm assuming you are using a cathedral port head. LS3 intake rockers won't work since they're offset.

I'd suggest upgrading springs. Even with a stock cam like you mention, you still probably want to run something with a little more pressure when you add boost to the mix.

Originally Posted by Createaaron
Block:
Forged LS1 pistons. open to suggestions
Stock rods, arp bolts
Stock crank
ARP main studs and ARP head studs
LS3 cam, lifters and pushrods
GM or fel-pro headgasket
Good bearings. open to suggestions
LS3 timing set
I like Wiseco, but I think Probe makes a really nice forged piston too. I'd suggest going with a forged steel rod though, like a $300 set of Scat I Beams. There aren't that many options if you stay with the stock rods since they have a .944" pin. When you use an aftermarket rod, like the Scat I Beam, you use the .927" and have many more options for pistons. You don't mention what heads or what compression ratio you're shooting for, so you may be okay with a flat top or you may need a big dish. There are simply more options available when you use the .927" pin.

I don't think the LS3 cam has a reluctor in the back, so you will need the extension harness and front cover with the cam sync to make it work in a Gen III block. By the time you buy all that, you're paying almost what a custom cam would cost.

Save your money and just get head bolts instead of studs. For a 600hp goal, it's not really needed. Hell, stock bolts would even work fine, but the ARP's are reusable so you can use them to torque plate hone the cylinders and not have to throw them away.

Originally Posted by Createaaron
Induction:
Custom alum. intake
78mm TB?? Not sure what stock is
Ford svo 42# injectors
You're going to build a custom intake a plop a stock throttle body on there? At least go up to a 90mm throttle body.
Old 03-26-2016, 02:24 PM
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Not sure of the head casting number. They're off a 99 suburban with 9.45:1 compression. Planning on decking the heads to ensure a clean mating surface, only taking a few thousands off. I'd like to stay in that CR range. This is new info I'm hearing about different pin sizes, thanks.
Old 03-26-2016, 03:34 PM
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Personally, I would also step up to forged connecting rods. And I would use Eagle SIR I-beams in 6.25" length, with JE 3.905" forged pistons with a 1.175" compression height. With a stock stroke crank, this combination should be within +/- .004" of deck of the block, and gives you a nice 1.73 rod ratio. The rods are like $300 from summit, the pistons are $700 from summit, as well.

Another option with the stock stroke crank is 6.3" rods and 1.129" compression height pistons. Sealed Power makes some forged 3.898" bore pistons with this compression height. The 6.3" rod give you a 1.74 rod ratio, but the rods are more expensive than the 6.25" SIR I-beams I mentioned earlier.

I would definitely use a PAC 1218 or Comp 918 spring instead of LS6 springs, or better yet, step up to some BTR platinum duals and never look back.

Just use the stock LS1/6 rockers with the Smallwood Racing trunion upgrade. If you specifically desire higher ratio rackers, SLP makes 1.85 ratio rocker that may be worth looking into.

As stated, definitely use a 90mm (or even larger) throttle body if you are going through the effort to build and intake. However, the TrailBlazerSS and 2010+ truck intakes are very good intakes and would work very well on a naturally aspirated iron LS1. Just something to consider.

Last edited by DavidBoren; 03-26-2016 at 03:55 PM.
Old 04-06-2016, 12:47 PM
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Update on this post for those following, I dumped the idea of a custom intake and am going with the holley high ram. The heads are a 842 casting number. I decided to do forged rods and use the smaller pin bore. Going to be selling the sr20det from my 240 soon and using that money to buy parts for my engine. Where do I get the rockers with the trunion upgrade you were talking about?
Old 04-06-2016, 01:10 PM
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http://www.briantooleyracing.com/660...pring-kit.html
heres the spring kit I plan on buying


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