70ssclone

I bought a complete 06 take out 6.0 from a 3500 express van 126kmiles a few years ago and Im getting around to making my swap in my car . the motor ran great when I had it pulled , I got to start the van up cold and watch oil pressure and coolant temp and it was all great. I had this engine in my chevelle and realized the rear main seal is bad so im pulling the motor to replace it and im swapping on a set of 243s and a second hand cam I bought from a forum member. what else do you recommend I check and or replace while the engine is on a stand? thanks

JoeNova

If its not broken, don't fix it.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

There is a member here, helicoil, that is selling complete bottom end gasket sets for a real good deal. Fel-Pro, too. Just got mine in yesterday. This would allow you to change the front seal also as well as oil pan and the cover gaskets themselves if you see the need. There is a procedure for aligning the oil pan, covers(and the seals within) and sealing up the gasket so research before you yank ot all apart. It occurs to me that if you did the covers/pan one at a time they would basically align to each other...but that assumes that the last assembler of the engine(factory or dealer) aligned it right and that's not why the rear main is leaking now.

Oil pump pickup o-ring if you drop the pan...and oil pump while you're at it. Melling makes a nice stock replacement that is fairly cheap at the typical parts stores or their 10296 is a beast(but fits with stock parts) and can be had for about $150. Comes with the o-rings though.

Nothing wring with leaving alone what you don't suspect is problematic, either. The gaskets on these all basically have embedded o-rings and are even reusable in a lot of cases(though I try not to if budget allows). If you can get a deal on the gaskets though, I'd freshen them up so you don't have the engine out again for several years..except to do big fun stuff.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Oh...and head gaskets!

I would add to the list valve cover gaskets/o-rings. They are reusable but really do start leaking a little eventually and they can usually be had at the parts stores for like $5-$10.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

You would go through all that trouble and work only to put back in a stock 126k mile engine?

And replacing things doesn't mean it's broken, just means refreshing stuff so that you ensure a long life going forward on consumable parts. Do you only replace your brakes when they are completely and utterly destroyed/broken and your car fails to stop, or are you proactive and replace them when they start showing signs of wear?

I would take it all apart and replace bearings, rings, oil pump, valvetrain etc.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

That's a little more involved but I really can't argue. I am doing this with a 100K LS2 I just pulled for heads and clutch. But I am also shooting for 7x00 RPM and want a little peace of mind. So maybe I'll step back and ask the question of intended use, future plans and desired power levels? If stock is happy for you, I think a reasonable case could be made for leaving the bearings/rings alone. But we all pay for insurance each month even though we don't wreck our cars monthly...usually.

JoeNova

I'm building my third 8-second capable engine right now, using a stock 200k mile engine. If it ran perfect when I pull them, I don't see any reason to take them apart and start replacing things. Compression test, oil change, new plugs, and add lots of boost.

70ssclone

How about lifters and trays ? Is there a way to inspect them

JoeNova

You have to remove the heads to get to them.
If I have never heard the engine run, I usually just spend the $90 for LS7 lifters, because changing them after you've already gotten it running isn't fun in any way.

70ssclone

Well I have a set of 243s im putting on so heads are coming off thats why I ask about changing lifters .. And maybe timing chain ? I have an 06 so it's ls2 style

JoeNova

I've never replaced a timing chain. I've never broken one. Even at 30 PSI of boost. The hardest thing about spinning the cam over is the resistance of the valve springs. If you have springs that don't have huge open pressures, then the chain doesn't see nearly as much stress.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I would change the lifters and trays since you are changing the cam, have the heads off, and the trays are cheap. I am not saying there is some big problem with trays but I have had some start to get brittle and they at least don't hold the lifters up like they used to and at worst could crack. IDK. Cheap insurance.

70ssclone

Thanks for all the comments , I'm going to run with the chain I have and replace the lifters while I'm in there . I have pac1218 springs

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Depending on the cam, you probably need to change springs and pushrods. The cam retainer plate will probably need to be replaced as well. The orange o-ring in the retainer plate I s usually flat after that many miles and won't seal if reused.

With the engine on a stand and since you're already swapping the camshaft, it would be a good time to inspect the oil pump. At the very least, clean it out and make sure there isn't any debris that could stick the relief valve.

70ssclone

I have pac 1218 and tooley chromo pushrods

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Are the pushrods the correct length for the cam? I'd go with LS7 or Morel 5315 lifters. You will hear mixed reviews on both but I have the Morels and they are great.

70ssclone

Im not sure honestly , Unfortunatley I bought the pushrods not knowing it made a difference and bought 7.4 length . The cam is a 225/225 581/581 113+1 Lsa with I think a 110 base

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

I personally don't know enough about how to spec to tell you if they are correct or not. Hopefully someone else will chime in and confirm.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I've run stock pushrods with bigger cams personally..please don't beat me too hard for it. :-P

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Haha, more power to you sir. If it works for you, then that's awesome. I just kinda like the little additional security.