BNR34RB26DETT

So the title pretty much explains it all. i have a LS6 engine in a RX7 that is currently being built for road course and time attack.
I am new to this V8 game and making power reliability is a must with this new setup.
I have learned that trunion kit is a must and the motor has the following so far.

239 cam, 601/ 604 lift
7956 Comp Push Rods 7.450 .080
7/8" long tube headers (JTR)
Fidanza Lightweight LS2 flywheel
LS7 Clutch

I am thinking of selling my LS6 intake for Fast 90 and throttle body as well as run bigger injectors. Are there anything else that i need to know in order to increase reliability and power for road course use?

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Oil cooler, accusump, crank scraper, link bar lifters. All in the name of oil control

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

I'd scratch that LS7 clutch if I were you

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

nothing wrong with an ls7 clutch on the road course.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Agree, oil control is pretty important in these engines when you put "road course" and "reliability" in the same sentence. LS engines are really bad about aerating the oil.

Aviad has some good dry sump kits that are pretty economical. Their entry level kits use the OEM pump for pressure and an external pump mounted on the passenger side cylinder head for the scavenge. The external pump is even run off the accessory serpentine belt. It's not the best dry sump out there (again, entry level kit) and it doesn't fix the LS oiling issues, but it's a good band aid.

BNR34RB26DETT

thank you everyone. oil control is important. i see. i have accusump coming in and Improved racing oil pan baffle

would this be sufficient?
In terms of oil cooler, how large of an oil cooler are people running?

how about in terms of performance? i would like to rev it out as much as possible. what kind of setup in the head are track guys running? i would like to keep the bottom end stock for now

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

Just needs the proper hydraulics setup, at the minimum a Tilton 3/4's bore MC. I've never had luck with the stock clutch stuff.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

None of that has anything to do with an ls7 clutch.

What do you road race?

BNR34RB26DETT

http://www.rx7club.com/build-threads...build-1088006/

SuperSport01

I would also want an ATI/Fluidampr harmonic balancer and a timing chain dampner along with the things mentioned above.

ImprovedRacing

You may want to consider running our crank scraper as well. It helps improve oil control while also adding some horsepower.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Along with all that you should get a nice oil pump also.

Something like a Melling 10295, ported preferably.

Centerforce

LS7 clutches work great in street and some light performance application, but they have the inherent issue of not wanting to engage during high RPM shifts after heating up. In some instances this can be fixed with changes to the hydraulics, but other times it requires a new clutch to truly be fixed.

Also curious as to which body style RX7 you have?

dailydriver

^^^He has the FD body style, which was the LAST gen offered here in the states, and a VERY popular swap basis/roller for an LSx for road course use.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

Agreed with both. I'm not sure about the link bars being required but they certainly won't hurt. On my C5Z LS6 build, I'm going Johnson 2110 lifters, Improved Racing Baffles and Scraper in my C6 pan, external oil cooler, ATI/Fluidampr, and timing chain dampener. I want to add a accusump as soon as possible but funds are tight so I may just street drive it until the winter and then add it. I also like the Straub trunnion upgrade but CHE rocker upgrade would be my 1st choice, if you have the budget.

I would back the cam off some, 239 may gain some up top but low 230s will likely help mid range while giving very little up in peak HP. I would run a 3/8" push rod, at minimum 11/32".

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

Most road racing requires engine RPM's spending the majority of the time in the 3000-4000 RPM range which causes many harmonic vibrations so that much time at those RPM's cause timing chain breakage especially true without chain dampers so t-chain damper is a given for sure . Good luck and stay safe

Inflame

iTrader: (2)

Ishin, please for the love of god stop modding the car before even doing ONE event on it -_-. You're wasting money on things you don't need.

1) Keep the stock intake and run OEM GTP injectors.
2) Go to a stock LS6 cam because that'll be PLENTY of power starting off.
3) Do what I did with oil control, + your accusump you'll be fine.
4) K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple, Stupid. More mods, more HP, more tq, more heat = more problems.
5) Get an ATI Damper, I have this.
6) Mellings 10295 High Pressure Pump - I have this.
7) Improved racing baffle and crank scapper - I have this
8) Biggest oil cooler you can fit, I have the Earls 42 row Wide, 44200 p#.
9) Drill oil pan return side casting flash near oil filter.
10) Drill/slot the lifter trays.
11) Run M1 15-50 oil.
12) ARP rod bolts, require rod-resizing but will bullet proof high revs.

Literally, like I've been telling you, I've been through this, there is no need to reinvent the wheel.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I was going to recommend this as well. I think this is a must on a road race car due to the harmonics in the upper RPM band that come into play with this type of driving. Katech still had some of the original dampers from GMPP, not sure if they have any left but might be worth a call.

BNR34RB26DETT

lol true. i just figured i would get all the power mods out of the way while everything is apart and no need to retune later
but primary goal is to make it reliable at the moment ofcourse. i will be getting the damper, high pressure pump, crank scraper, and of course a giant oil cooler

dailydriver

I'm guessing the timing chain dampers also help control any 'chain whip' that occurs during high rev gear changes as well??