Foxbodysbc

Hey there I'm about to start building a 5.3 single turbo what would u suggest for a rotating assemlbly and heads and cam choice just testing the water look to get around 5-600 hp thanks for your help in advance

JoeNova

Stock.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Agreed. Personally, I would want to open up the rings gaps and bearing clearances but plenty of people have made that much power or more on the stock internals.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

MY method, first state block year and material ?

DO NOT use a block, AL, with the windage "hole" between cam bore/main bore.

Cost, sure though our Forged Rotation Assemble "balanced" is on special, until I run out of current stock. (a great price)

The AL block @ 98mm with RaceTec Pistons and Rings
The 4.00" Froged crank with 58x TW.
The Forged Rods with King Rod and Mains.
The balance is included needed to be complete.

Do the math sure, if you just "throw" is Rings & Bearings, the cost is greater.

When you do a grind, rod resize with bolts, balance, etc. the cost is VERY close.

Then DON'T waste money on the heads, regrind the cam OR a 2nd Z-06 cam choice.

I do know other ways to specify correct items at best cost, just ask Lance ?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Do you know King Talon? I swear you post the same way.

G Atsma

The difference is, Lance actually appears to know what he is talking about.....

DavidBoren

Stock crank, stock rods with GM bolts, stock pistons, stock heads with stock valves, stock intake with stock fuel rails and stock throttle body, and use the stock cam.

You will need, new valve springs (I like duals, but whatever, they aren't technically necessary), trunion upgrades for you stock rockers (I like the bushing style, not the ones that use needle bearings), 80# injectors, and a new/larger fuel pump(s).

Other than that, use any of the turbo kits that reuse stock exhaust manifolds. Install a S473, or something similar, and run it for the rest of your life, or the rest of its life, whatever comes first.

If you want to be thorough, then you can replace the bearing and rings and lifters and pushrods and valve seals, blah blah blah. But at the end of the day, there are so many LS motors being driven every day that are making 5-600rwhp that haven't ever had the heads or oil pan removed, you probably cannot count them all before more show up.

Follow Denmah's junkyard turbo build guides and you will be fine.

PS. Next time you might want to specify which vehicle this may end up in. The more specific you are in your questions, the more specific we can be in our answers.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

I thought the same thing for a while. But then I realized he is not from the states to the strangeness in his post is do to it no being his primary language.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

ah maybe that's what it is.

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

Whats the most you can bore and hone a 5.3 block ?

JoeNova

You can bore it out tof LS1 specs.

Personally, if it's boost related then boring it out is senseless.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

MY difference, "sonic" tested @ 98mm MAX.

I DO NOT "shoot" from the hip.

My educated observation, threw sonic measurement is as STATED.
This is a "late" GEN-IV AL block measurement.

Lance

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

So your saying a Gen IV 5.3 Alum. block can't go more then 3.858...

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

The bore size I order is 3.860" which is 98mm +.002".
The machine shop, your machine shop, could find this easier/less time spent at this size.

MY reason is the NPR STEEL rings I fit.
The NPR rings are most common in "mm" sizes to OEM specifications.
We know Turbosupercharged, NOS, SC Supercharged engines need a small increase in ring gap over an OEM NA "low speed" application type.
The NPR site has a great amount of quality information, take the time to "view" this site.
They give good detail in ring design, usage tips, and performance ratings.

I also specify a "napier" 2nd ring set available in this size.

Those who shop price will find the NPR steel rings are 1/2 the price of other steel ring/napier 2nd ring packs.

Thus at 3.860" finished bore size no "file fit" is needed, just stone the gap edges.

This is the piston ring or pistons with rings set I can supply, just ask.

Lance, BTW the original question was in reference to high output duty.

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

Thank you for the info..

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

i'm curious as to why the napier 2nd ring is preferred over the stock type taper face. have you any experience putting the napier type ring in the "stock bottom end" builds we love so much here on LS1tech?

I do see a lot of coked oil in the 2nd and 3rd ring grooves on the high mile (>200k) motors I usually use

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

The LS-x engine, most modern engines, are assembled with low friction ring sets.
One such item is the Oil Ring, a modern narrow type.
The Napier 2nd ring controls oil better AND has less wall friction.
The NPR "steel" Top Ring is very strong, no "cast" Moly Filled rings for Turbo use.

The way the Napier operates is better for top ring pressure activation.

Lance

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

Lance, what do these pistons and rings cost from you?

lsxdick

iTrader: (4)

Stock like others have said. Maybe a small turbo cam and gen IV rods if you want to push it a little more.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi, thanks for the interest and there is a sale price at RaceTec Pistons that ends soon.

The costs are based on Alloy 4032/2618 AND Dished/Flat Top/Domed.
Rings NPR ?
Pin Type ?

You could send me your phone # by E-Mail ?

Example : LS-x with "flat" top piston (shelf), NPR rings, normal pins, wire locks @ 650.00 to your door.

Lance