need help with bottom end build
01-23-2017, 08:04 AM
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need help with bottom end build My 02 z28 had a knock. So rebuilding for future turbo. Plan on 10 psi maybe a touch mor. Need advice on if any of this is over kill or to weak. Thanks for any advice. This took me forever to put together but here it is
diamond -8.6 dished pistons
forged 6.125 connecting rods(scat maybe)
arp rod bolts,main and head studs
ls6 valve springs
head gasket(not sure what brand)
60# seimen deka injectors
racetronix hotwire kit
king rod and main bearing
ls2 timing chain
melling oil pump.
diamond -8.6 dished pistons
forged 6.125 connecting rods(scat maybe)
arp rod bolts,main and head studs
ls6 valve springs
head gasket(not sure what brand)
60# seimen deka injectors
racetronix hotwire kit
king rod and main bearing
ls2 timing chain
melling oil pump.
01-23-2017, 09:26 AM
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Balance Rotating Assembly Hi Brandon, when you do this type of shopping it is wise.
You could follow my advice, get a 4.0" crankshaft upgrade for the same cost.
My "quote " $1700.00 FOB
The included items :
1. Forged 4.0" crankshaft @ 1850 BW (balanced)
2. Forged 6.125" rods with ARP bolts
3. Forged Racetec Pistons @ -5cc .003+ bore size.
4. NPR Steel Rings
5. King Race rod and main bearings.
6. Engine Balanced @ 3% "over"
The optional items :
1. My LS-2 timing chain with Chrome Steel links.
2. FelPro 1041 head gasket
3. GM 2010 Camaro Oil Pump.
4. My head studs.
5. My GM LS-1/2 Valve Spring kit. (EOM)
6. My Denso 650cc AC injectors. (long)
No need for the ARP Main Bolt upgrade.
Lance
You could follow my advice, get a 4.0" crankshaft upgrade for the same cost.
My "quote " $1700.00 FOB
The included items :
1. Forged 4.0" crankshaft @ 1850 BW (balanced)
2. Forged 6.125" rods with ARP bolts
3. Forged Racetec Pistons @ -5cc .003+ bore size.
4. NPR Steel Rings
5. King Race rod and main bearings.
6. Engine Balanced @ 3% "over"
The optional items :
1. My LS-2 timing chain with Chrome Steel links.
2. FelPro 1041 head gasket
3. GM 2010 Camaro Oil Pump.
4. My head studs.
5. My GM LS-1/2 Valve Spring kit. (EOM)
6. My Denso 650cc AC injectors. (long)
No need for the ARP Main Bolt upgrade.
Lance
01-23-2017, 10:42 AM
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dont know how to reply properly lol Hi Brandon, when you do this type of shopping it is wise.
You could follow my advice, get a 4.0" crankshaft upgrade for the same cost.
My "quote " $1700.00 FOB
The included items :
1. Forged 4.0" crankshaft @ 1850 BW (balanced)
2. Forged 6.125" rods with ARP bolts
3. Forged Racetec Pistons @ -5cc .003+ bore size.
4. NPR Steel Rings
5. King Race rod and main bearings.
6. Engine Balanced @ 3% "over"
The optional items :
1. My LS-2 timing chain with Chrome Steel links.
2. FelPro 1041 head gasket
3. GM 2010 Camaro Oil Pump.
4. My head studs.
5. My GM LS-1/2 Valve Spring kit. (EOM)
6. My Denso 650cc AC injectors. (long)
No need for the ARP Main Bolt upgrade.
Lance
You could follow my advice, get a 4.0" crankshaft upgrade for the same cost.
My "quote " $1700.00 FOB
The included items :
1. Forged 4.0" crankshaft @ 1850 BW (balanced)
2. Forged 6.125" rods with ARP bolts
3. Forged Racetec Pistons @ -5cc .003+ bore size.
4. NPR Steel Rings
5. King Race rod and main bearings.
6. Engine Balanced @ 3% "over"
The optional items :
1. My LS-2 timing chain with Chrome Steel links.
2. FelPro 1041 head gasket
3. GM 2010 Camaro Oil Pump.
4. My head studs.
5. My GM LS-1/2 Valve Spring kit. (EOM)
6. My Denso 650cc AC injectors. (long)
No need for the ARP Main Bolt upgrade.
Lance
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01-23-2017, 12:00 PM
#8
I'd use the LS9 head gaskets if you're going to boost it.
With a turbo, the stock crank is fine. Shelf Wiseco pistons, some Compstar Rods, and new bearings. You don't need the ARP main studs, but they are like $250 to add to the cost + line hone costs at the machine shop. But yeah.
I'd do maybe some upgraded PSI 1511 beehives if you keep the stock cam, a Melling 10295 oil pump, and a new timing chain (Rollmaster Double Roller is my preferred) or a C5R chain on your stock gears. While you have the cam out, grab a turbo grind from BTR like a Stage 1 or Stage 2... but I'd use the BTR Platinum dual valve springs with the more aggressive lobes on an aftermarket cam + boost.
I'd throw some Straub Bronze Bushed trunnions into the stock rockers and some new lifters. Morel drop in replacements and new lifter trays at least or maybe step up to some of the Johnson low leak lifters.
With a turbo, the stock crank is fine. Shelf Wiseco pistons, some Compstar Rods, and new bearings. You don't need the ARP main studs, but they are like $250 to add to the cost + line hone costs at the machine shop. But yeah.
I'd do maybe some upgraded PSI 1511 beehives if you keep the stock cam, a Melling 10295 oil pump, and a new timing chain (Rollmaster Double Roller is my preferred) or a C5R chain on your stock gears. While you have the cam out, grab a turbo grind from BTR like a Stage 1 or Stage 2... but I'd use the BTR Platinum dual valve springs with the more aggressive lobes on an aftermarket cam + boost.
I'd throw some Straub Bronze Bushed trunnions into the stock rockers and some new lifters. Morel drop in replacements and new lifter trays at least or maybe step up to some of the Johnson low leak lifters.
01-23-2017, 12:33 PM
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01-23-2017, 12:35 PM
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. I'd use the LS9 head gaskets if you're going to boost it.
With a turbo, the stock crank is fine. Shelf Wiseco pistons, some Compstar Rods, and new bearings. You don't need the ARP main studs, but they are like $250 to add to the cost + line hone costs at the machine shop. But yeah.
I wanna keep this cost down as much as possible
I'd do maybe some upgraded PSI 1511 beehives if you keep the stock cam, a Melling 10295 oil pump, and a new timing chain (Rollmaster Double Roller is my preferred) or a C5R chain on your stock gears. While you have the cam out, grab a turbo grind from BTR like a Stage 1 or Stage 2... but I'd use the BTR Platinum dual valve springs with the more aggressive lobes on an aftermarket cam + boost.
I'd throw some Straub Bronze Bushed trunnions into the stock rockers and some new lifters. Morel drop in replacements and new lifter trays at least or maybe step up to some of the Johnson low leak lifters.
With a turbo, the stock crank is fine. Shelf Wiseco pistons, some Compstar Rods, and new bearings. You don't need the ARP main studs, but they are like $250 to add to the cost + line hone costs at the machine shop. But yeah.
I wanna keep this cost down as much as possible
I'd do maybe some upgraded PSI 1511 beehives if you keep the stock cam, a Melling 10295 oil pump, and a new timing chain (Rollmaster Double Roller is my preferred) or a C5R chain on your stock gears. While you have the cam out, grab a turbo grind from BTR like a Stage 1 or Stage 2... but I'd use the BTR Platinum dual valve springs with the more aggressive lobes on an aftermarket cam + boost.
I'd throw some Straub Bronze Bushed trunnions into the stock rockers and some new lifters. Morel drop in replacements and new lifter trays at least or maybe step up to some of the Johnson low leak lifters.
01-23-2017, 12:36 PM
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01-23-2017, 02:42 PM
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sleaves i read somewhere with a 4" stroke your piston skirts star going below the sleeves. But i could be wrong. Besided the point anyway. I just need help with this. no stroking. Stock crank. Am i gonna see fuel issues? To little compression? Is this **** gonna hold up if i bump it to 14 or so psi
