crankshaft harmonic balancer brake away!!
02-15-2017, 01:16 AM
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crankshaft harmonic balancer brake away!! my greetings everyone
im new to the family. i realy didnt no where to make this thread.
anyway i have a trans am 2000 ls1 6sp
the harmonic balancer has brake away three times!! now
i have been looking over and over to see where is the problem
it looks like that the bolt some how wont keep the pully
i dont no is it a problem in the pully hub or the damper or do i need to change the crankshaft
and how much would it cost me
im new to the family. i realy didnt no where to make this thread.
anyway i have a trans am 2000 ls1 6sp
the harmonic balancer has brake away three times!! now
i have been looking over and over to see where is the problem
it looks like that the bolt some how wont keep the pully
i dont no is it a problem in the pully hub or the damper or do i need to change the crankshaft
and how much would it cost me
02-15-2017, 06:27 AM
#2
Not sure if someone has previously worked on your car, but the GM bolt it torque to yield and one time use only. It is hard to put on to the GM specifications so some just tighten as much as they can and it loosens and the damper spins on the crank. Since this has happeded four times, sounds like that bolt was never tight enough to start with.
Couple of issues of concern, first is the crank may be damaged to the point where the damper won't stay in place with the stock bolt. In this case, you could pin the damper to the crank. Two methods, first is to use a kit that end drills the damper hub and crank and the pin is inserted from the end. This is easier as it doesn't require removel of the damper. Second is the ATI kit that cross drills the crank. This kit requires damper removal and a new damper or modified stock damper that has a keyway milled down the length.
The other option is to disassemble and inspect the crank and get a new damper. I would still pin the damper even if you take it apart.
Hope that all makes sense.
Couple of issues of concern, first is the crank may be damaged to the point where the damper won't stay in place with the stock bolt. In this case, you could pin the damper to the crank. Two methods, first is to use a kit that end drills the damper hub and crank and the pin is inserted from the end. This is easier as it doesn't require removel of the damper. Second is the ATI kit that cross drills the crank. This kit requires damper removal and a new damper or modified stock damper that has a keyway milled down the length.
The other option is to disassemble and inspect the crank and get a new damper. I would still pin the damper even if you take it apart.
Hope that all makes sense.
02-18-2017, 06:12 AM
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What if take some time before it falls like a month would it be the same case ?
Beyim sure that the pully was tighten enough would the crankshaft be damaged? And maybe this would be the case
Beyim sure that the pully was tighten enough would the crankshaft be damaged? And maybe this would be the case
02-21-2017, 08:15 PM
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It may be worth it to you to upgrade to an ARP balancer bolt as well. They're not torque to yield so they won't stretch. Also just call for a specific torque value rather than the standard torque angle procedure.
