Hmm 416 or a 347 D1 Procharger or 5.3L with a 76mm Turbo
#21
You're the money man who doesn't spare a red cent on any of your builds, so with that said, I'd like to see you go for the junkyard 5.3 build with a cheap *** turbo. On second thought, screw all of that and go for a fully forged 460+ cubic inch monster with a F3 series blower on it.
See what an F1A-94 could do on the 416 (4.125" bore and 3.900" crank) at max hilt. 1150rwhp? 1200rwhp? F1A-94 is about as big as we can reasonably package in the F-Body.
Also, there's something about a 416 or 402 with a 200 or 250 shot that might be interesting... Power is not always there. But when you plan to race, you have it available. And 750-800rwhp in a big nitrous stroker is going to be fast. Of course, nitrous breaks things worse than anything else.
And the whine of a D1 with my exhaust is also appealing...
#22
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
The build I'd really love to do is a Dart SHP block with piston squirters and splayed billet main caps fitted with a 3.900" Dragonslayer Crank, Oliver Speedway Rods, custom Diamond 4.125" Pistons, and 6-bolt TFS 245s worked by Tooley. Throw the 4L60 out and put a max built 4L80 behind it.
See what an F1A-94 could do on the 416 (4.125" bore and 3.900" crank) at max hilt. 1150rwhp? 1200rwhp? F1A-94 is about as big as we can reasonably package in the F-Body.
See what an F1A-94 could do on the 416 (4.125" bore and 3.900" crank) at max hilt. 1150rwhp? 1200rwhp? F1A-94 is about as big as we can reasonably package in the F-Body.
Also, there's something about a 416 or 402 with a 200 or 250 shot that might be interesting... Power is not always there. But when you plan to race, you have it available. And 750-800rwhp in a big nitrous stroker is going to be fast. Of course, nitrous breaks things worse than anything else.
#24
The 416 with a plate setup and 250-300 shot is still the cheapest option. Hell it's about the same price as the D1 setup and fuel system. And that's with the TFS heads. So bang for the buck, it's hard to argue with it. I could throw it on now, run 150 shot and then step up to the 416 and push 300 through it. At that point, refresh the trans, go to a triple disk converter, and see what it could do. I don't know if I'd trust K1 Crank/Rods to it, but that'd be 850 to the tire at least. That's a deep 9s car even at full weight. I'd just have to see how a big cammed 12:1 nitrous 416 would act in traffic with a 4000 triple disk stall...
I haven't even factored the S60 into this. I have that budgeted separately and will be doing it next. S60 with the S-Trac. I just need to figure out the motor. Supercharger gets a 3.54 gear... the 416/nitrous SOB would get a 3.73...
I haven't even factored the S60 into this. I have that budgeted separately and will be doing it next. S60 with the S-Trac. I just need to figure out the motor. Supercharger gets a 3.54 gear... the 416/nitrous SOB would get a 3.73...
#25
I have a nitrous racer. And a procharged Street car.
My thoughts. The bigger nitrous motors are fun at the track.SUCK for daily driving. Cam profiles and messing with bottles is for track cars.
The procharged car is awesome for the street. Drive like a normal car until you want to smoke the tires, but it's really tame and boring unless it's wot.
I want to do a turbo car. Other racers will hear the turbo and you can have a little fun on the street. You can go wild to mild with a push of a button. I vote cheap *** low buck motor with a fun louder turbo set up. Plus turbos are tinkerers dream.
My thoughts. The bigger nitrous motors are fun at the track.SUCK for daily driving. Cam profiles and messing with bottles is for track cars.
The procharged car is awesome for the street. Drive like a normal car until you want to smoke the tires, but it's really tame and boring unless it's wot.
I want to do a turbo car. Other racers will hear the turbo and you can have a little fun on the street. You can go wild to mild with a push of a button. I vote cheap *** low buck motor with a fun louder turbo set up. Plus turbos are tinkerers dream.
#26
Ah yes, this is what I needed to hear!
Alright, so 400+ nitrous car out of the question.
So now I need to decide if I want to run the D1 or sell everything and go L33/Turbo. If I had a Camaro, I think I'd do it. I love having the huge exhaust tips hanging off the back of the Trans Am. Fabbing up a downpipe off the turbo with a reverse Y to the True Duals is a possibility... And would tame it down. Hmm.
Alright, so 400+ nitrous car out of the question.
So now I need to decide if I want to run the D1 or sell everything and go L33/Turbo. If I had a Camaro, I think I'd do it. I love having the huge exhaust tips hanging off the back of the Trans Am. Fabbing up a downpipe off the turbo with a reverse Y to the True Duals is a possibility... And would tame it down. Hmm.
#27
FYI the procharger needs its oil changed quite often and honestly I am always worried about cause it's spendy. Turbos can be cheap and you can always upgrade anytime. No belts,no pulleys, no oil changes. If I had the room I would sell the PC and get a turbo.
#28
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Hmm...I probably shouldn't post my opinion on this...
The real issue with the fun to drive factor with your current set up is the 4L60E being an automatic not the the cars power output. The car still won't be fun to drive key word is drive not race. If you made 1,500 hp at the wheels because of the voodoo slush box automatic it wont be the intense fun that you want. You're simply too hands on personality wise to enjoy a car that isn't an intimate driving experience.
You need the Magnum T-56, a great twin disc clutch and either a Hawks 8.8 rear, Ford 9 inch or S60 not a new engine combo.
My 91 RS was planned as a 700 rwhp capable car with the appropriate 4L60E and 250 shot of NOS but I realized my real kick came from driving the car on the street and being able to go anywhere...1300 miles trips sure thing...so short version good bye voodoo slush box hello T-56
Otherwise an LS swapped Saturn Sky destroked with solid roller cam turning 8,000+ rpm with titanium valves would be fun
Regarding ProCharger sure its cool and I can buy one for the 383 LS1 RS but I helped my girlfriend's son buy his first Z28 instead. Its a 91 and I've had more fun being involved with sharing the car hobby him than I would have had paying someone to bolt on another 400hp and running E85.
Best wishes with your project, I look foreard to reading about it what ever direction you select.
The real issue with the fun to drive factor with your current set up is the 4L60E being an automatic not the the cars power output. The car still won't be fun to drive key word is drive not race. If you made 1,500 hp at the wheels because of the voodoo slush box automatic it wont be the intense fun that you want. You're simply too hands on personality wise to enjoy a car that isn't an intimate driving experience.
You need the Magnum T-56, a great twin disc clutch and either a Hawks 8.8 rear, Ford 9 inch or S60 not a new engine combo.
My 91 RS was planned as a 700 rwhp capable car with the appropriate 4L60E and 250 shot of NOS but I realized my real kick came from driving the car on the street and being able to go anywhere...1300 miles trips sure thing...so short version good bye voodoo slush box hello T-56
Otherwise an LS swapped Saturn Sky destroked with solid roller cam turning 8,000+ rpm with titanium valves would be fun
Regarding ProCharger sure its cool and I can buy one for the 383 LS1 RS but I helped my girlfriend's son buy his first Z28 instead. Its a 91 and I've had more fun being involved with sharing the car hobby him than I would have had paying someone to bolt on another 400hp and running E85.
Best wishes with your project, I look foreard to reading about it what ever direction you select.
#29
And about the 6-speed. There's some truth to that. The auto is more for a racecar...
I wonder how hard it would be to convert it to a 6-speed? One thing I don't particularly like is the high stall. Unless you are giving it gas, it really doesn't move. I get left behind in traffic a lot.
And one of the great joys is that feeling when you shift and you sort of catch your breath before it pins you back again. With a high stall auto... it feels more like a CVT that just always stays at 5500+ RPM... again, great for racing. But eh.
I was looking at a 2002 Z06 the other day. I was actually thinking of selling the car or maybe trying to straight up trade for it. And I was dreaming of LG Coilovers, Brembo brakes, some R888 tires on CCW Race wheels, and enjoying the LS6 on road courses. I've always wanted to do the Cannonball Run across America. I guess I want a car that does everything pretty well. Maybe I need a Camaro ZL1.
To me, road racing is more fun than drag racing. And it breaks less stuff. But I've never really had a great car for it. AutoX I did in a FWD Nissan. But it handled better than the Trans Am with Konis and 550lbs springs and massive sway bars (yes - look at my suspension setup - its more of a road racer setup than drag). I bought the Trans Am, because I had wanted a black WS6 and this came available when I had the cash to buy it.
Had it been a 6-speed, I may have done more to push it for road racing. Hell, I toyed with the idea of building an Ultima GTR in my garage for a while. lol
#30
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
Stalls are fun on the street when you have the right setup. Sounds to me like you need a tighter stall and a 3.73 gear. Your current setup was geared towards the big cam. My setup gets right up and goes fine in traffic without needing to rev it above 3k. Let off the brake and rolls on its own easily from a stop. I definitely would not want anymore stall then this for a street car.
Fwiw I have owned both a M6 and Stalled A4... both are fun in their own ways...The grass is always greener on the other side.
Fwiw I have owned both a M6 and Stalled A4... both are fun in their own ways...The grass is always greener on the other side.
#31
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Jake, converting my 91 RS from Auto to six speed cost about $6,000 IIRC. I'm sure it could be done for less but about what my parts ended up costing.
T56 $2400
T56 $1500 - upgrade parts to stage 2 with brass forks etc
SFI scatter shield $500
RAM HD clutch,flywheel slave, master $700
Clutch pedal assembly $300
Pro 5.0. Shifter $175
Hawks leather shift **** $60
T56 cross member $225
The Magnum would be like $1500 more and I should have whent for a nice driving twin disc $600 or so more as the ram is grabbier than I like.
Carbon fiber drive shaft is cool too if $ allow.
Loose stall not fun to drive on the street.
My 72 vette has a nice tight Yank 3200 non locking of course with the TH400 and drives like stock. Fun car for an auto
T56 $2400
T56 $1500 - upgrade parts to stage 2 with brass forks etc
SFI scatter shield $500
RAM HD clutch,flywheel slave, master $700
Clutch pedal assembly $300
Pro 5.0. Shifter $175
Hawks leather shift **** $60
T56 cross member $225
The Magnum would be like $1500 more and I should have whent for a nice driving twin disc $600 or so more as the ram is grabbier than I like.
Carbon fiber drive shaft is cool too if $ allow.
Loose stall not fun to drive on the street.
My 72 vette has a nice tight Yank 3200 non locking of course with the TH400 and drives like stock. Fun car for an auto
#32
Restricted User
I vote turbo 5.3. If you would have asked in the Forced Induction section, that's the consensus you would have been given as well. This section of the forum is more populated by 'old school' thinkers that want either big cubes or blowers or think you have to forge your N/A motor for 450 hp.
The total cost of the turbo 5.3 setup can be done for less than a Procharger kit for your current engine costs. Factor in that selling off your current setup will pay for most of it, and turbo 5.3 is just by far the most cost effective way to make 700 HP. It will be up to you to decide whether or not you want to go through the hassle of pulling/selling your current setup.
The total cost of the turbo 5.3 setup can be done for less than a Procharger kit for your current engine costs. Factor in that selling off your current setup will pay for most of it, and turbo 5.3 is just by far the most cost effective way to make 700 HP. It will be up to you to decide whether or not you want to go through the hassle of pulling/selling your current setup.
#33
I know, Joe. That's why I posted here. haha
But I do think this is an interesting discussion.
The one thing that makes me leery of the pull and sell everything is 1) that's time consuming and not at all guaranteed to be of great success and 2) I do everything myself, so I have to find time to go rip the car apart, sell everything off (and make the garage unusable) and then rebuild the car. That'd be a long downtime potentially.
As far as the stall goes... I need a 3.73 in here no matter what. The 4000 was a loose NA converter for a big cam. I was thinking a 3400-3600 tight triple disk with the blower or turbo and a 3.73 would drive much better. I am typically above 3000 RPM to even move with traffic.
Where I can open the car up, it's great fun. But when you drive the car on the street... in traffic 90% of the time, you have to balance great fun with the oh **** I'm just annoying myself with the way this thing drives. I drive my Toyota to go to the store or to run errands or go to work. But I don't want to. I want to drive this thing. But it's really sort of a nightmare to drive it. It's too loud. Rattles and vibrates to ****. And feels sluggish as **** unless I really want to go.
Tinkering on a fast car is more fun than owning one. Which is why I think people sell them almost as soon as they complete them. Driving them is not great fun. But the build and idea of the car is fun.
But I do think this is an interesting discussion.
The one thing that makes me leery of the pull and sell everything is 1) that's time consuming and not at all guaranteed to be of great success and 2) I do everything myself, so I have to find time to go rip the car apart, sell everything off (and make the garage unusable) and then rebuild the car. That'd be a long downtime potentially.
As far as the stall goes... I need a 3.73 in here no matter what. The 4000 was a loose NA converter for a big cam. I was thinking a 3400-3600 tight triple disk with the blower or turbo and a 3.73 would drive much better. I am typically above 3000 RPM to even move with traffic.
Where I can open the car up, it's great fun. But when you drive the car on the street... in traffic 90% of the time, you have to balance great fun with the oh **** I'm just annoying myself with the way this thing drives. I drive my Toyota to go to the store or to run errands or go to work. But I don't want to. I want to drive this thing. But it's really sort of a nightmare to drive it. It's too loud. Rattles and vibrates to ****. And feels sluggish as **** unless I really want to go.
Tinkering on a fast car is more fun than owning one. Which is why I think people sell them almost as soon as they complete them. Driving them is not great fun. But the build and idea of the car is fun.
#34
TECH Senior Member
Time to civilize the Beast, Jake! lol
#35
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
when you drive the car on the street... in traffic 90% of the time, you have to balance great fun with the oh **** I'm just annoying myself with the way this thing drives. I drive my Toyota to go to the store or to run errands or go to work. But I don't want to. I want to drive this thing. But it's really sort of a nightmare to drive it. It's too loud. Rattles and vibrates to ****. And feels sluggish as **** unless I really want to go.
Tinkering on a fast car is more fun than owning one. Which is why I think people sell them almost as soon as they complete them. Driving them is not great fun. But the build and idea of the car is fun.
Tinkering on a fast car is more fun than owning one. Which is why I think people sell them almost as soon as they complete them. Driving them is not great fun. But the build and idea of the car is fun.
A turbo with a mild cam and a a fairly tight converter or a positive displacement blower with a low overlap blower camshaft and a tight converter. I would have to think that a Heartbeat blower kit would be awesome for the driving experience that you want.
#36
Restricted User
Seems like you're talking yourself into a turbo 5.3 haha.
If you think its loud now, a 416 or ESPECIALLY a Procharger will just make it much louder. I can drive my 4" fender exit around and its about as loud as my old mild big block was with dual 3" and flowmasters, MAYBE a bit quieter. With a turbo you can get away with a VERY mild cam that pulls 15-20" of vacuum at idle and not sacrifice on power. Even with solid mounts in a 48 year old echo chamber, mine isn't bad at all to drive.
With a 3200 stall converter, 3.55 rear gear, and 28" ET Pros, it will melt them from a 50 roll. The little 5.3 makes over 800 ft lbs at 4000 RPM. If I'm cruising at 40-50 and stomp the pedal, its at full boost as soon as it downshifts into 2nd and the tires can't take the shock. I honestly wish I would have went with a 3.27 rear gear in my 8.8 sometimes.
I'd rule out the 416 because its bang/buck ratio isn't anywhere close to what you'll get with a blower or turbo, and it gives you almost no future-proofing.
It will likely come down to whether or not you want to rip it out and start over.
If you think its loud now, a 416 or ESPECIALLY a Procharger will just make it much louder. I can drive my 4" fender exit around and its about as loud as my old mild big block was with dual 3" and flowmasters, MAYBE a bit quieter. With a turbo you can get away with a VERY mild cam that pulls 15-20" of vacuum at idle and not sacrifice on power. Even with solid mounts in a 48 year old echo chamber, mine isn't bad at all to drive.
With a 3200 stall converter, 3.55 rear gear, and 28" ET Pros, it will melt them from a 50 roll. The little 5.3 makes over 800 ft lbs at 4000 RPM. If I'm cruising at 40-50 and stomp the pedal, its at full boost as soon as it downshifts into 2nd and the tires can't take the shock. I honestly wish I would have went with a 3.27 rear gear in my 8.8 sometimes.
I'd rule out the 416 because its bang/buck ratio isn't anywhere close to what you'll get with a blower or turbo, and it gives you almost no future-proofing.
It will likely come down to whether or not you want to rip it out and start over.
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Tang2 (05-28-2020)
#39
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I have thought about this a lot as well. My 427 is great for going through the gears but it's lost quite a bit of the fun factor due to the relatively large cam. I really only use it at the track. Thought about mostly stock 6.0 (maybe a LS9 cam) with twin turbos. Not too much different than the 5.3. I actually have quite a few of the parts but have never done anything with them.
#40
Corsa drone detele!! I put them on my 6.1 prochared car. Its nice and quite until you get on the gas.