jtb032295

Pulled the cam tonight to find two bad lobes, pictured below ... I tried to examine the lifters with a borescope and all seems well.. However, I have my concerns (the borescope is only so good). I can't rotate the rear lifters or anything to inspect the whole roller so I'm looking for advice from people with experience. Do I need to actually tear the heads off and replace the lifters or just replace the cam and go for it? I had no issues/noises before tear down..

Keep in mind, this was a cheap cam so I was kinda asking for these issues.. I know that already and now I'm asking for help moving forward.

Thanks

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

i'm probably one of the cheapest, sloppiest ***** on here....

and i would pull the heads and replace the lifters.

I'd also check the bearings and such, that metal went somewhere.

also searching for a root cause would be a good idea. bad spring? lifter preload wrong? inquiring minds want to know!

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Unfortunately, you really should pull the heads. If you put in a new cam and then the lifters let go and take out the new cam you are back to square one and maybe worse.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

I'd wager its impossible for the cam to look like that and the lifters be fine.

RockinWs6

Seriously if you have to ask you know the answer.

jtb032295

Ok....ok I guess that was a stupid question.. I'm already this far into the engine, I'm just going to do it right and replace the lifters. Its only a few more bolts... So it seems like LS7s are the way to go around here?

Thanks for the help guys

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kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

the cam didn't get that way without the help of the lifters.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Yup. Pull the heads and replace lifters.

I'd do Morel 5315 or even Comp 850s before I'd do the LS7s.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

If you pull the lifters and they aren't trash go buy some lottery tickets and see if your luck is still around.

I also agree with JakeFusion, spend a little more and get the Morels unless you are on a super tight budget where every penny counts.

2002BLKWS6

iTrader: (10)

Go ahead and replace those lifters.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Absolutely get a new set of lifters. Even on a budget, I would never use used lifters with a new cam, even if the cam looked fine. And in your case having a wiped out cam, it shouldn't even be in the thought process if the lifters might be ok.

RedWS6 00

My cam was worn.


This is what my lifter looked like.


Pull the heads and take a look at the lifters, yours may not be as bad as mine, but something not good is happening to create than on your cam.

Good luck with it.

jtb032295

Alright guys, I pulled the heads and lifters today... I found most lifters looking ok, with no severe damage. There is scuffing on a few of them and warrants changing them out. The trays were also pretty wore out. I'll post pictures tomorrow when I get back in the garage and let you guys be the judge... I'll have new lifters, trays, gaskets, and bolts to start reassembly tomorrow. Also gonna change the oil & filter for safe measure..

Thanks for the input, it is appreciated

stonebreaker

Don't forget to at least check your current springs if you're not planning on replacing them. As for what lifters to use, GM is now selling a set of Cadillac racing lifters that are good to 8000 rpm. They're not cheap, mine were $289 from Summit, but they're OEM racing parts. P/N 88958689.

cookseyb

That is called brinelling it won't heal its self. Something hit it or it's not getting enough oil. The oil system should be flushed out.FWIW

jtb032295

Sorry for the delay, I've been working around school and such.. Anyway, I haven't taken any good pictures of the lifters yet, those are soon to come.

I ended up replacing the lifters, trays, pushrods (for correct length), and camshaft. I also ordered a Straub trunnion kit and installed it while I was waiting for other parts. Once finished, I changed the oil and filter, ran the engine for a little and then changed the filter again.

I ended up settling with a cam between the two I had previously listed. I decided upon a Howards 222/225 .561/.578 112+4. From startup, it immediately wanted ~20% more fuel than the previous cam and pulled ~20kpa more vacuum. From this, I believe the old cheap cam was not as advertised and likely not ground correctly from the beginning... The two cams are a little different but is it enough to cause these differences?

Old cam: 218/228 .560/.560 112+4 (supposedly)

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

did you degree the old one?

I have had some problems throwing in cheap cams "dot to dot"

heck even a GM cam I bought used was 4* off when I actually degreed it out.