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Old 03-16-2017, 06:31 PM   #1
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Default Cam recommendation

Looking for thoughts on a cam for an LS1. The car is an 86 Camaro, 3.55 rear gears, LS1/A4 with LS6 intake, long tubes and 3" exhaust. Car is 70/30 street/track. Want good numbers under the curve with close to 400whp.
The cams I am looking at are the:
Tick TorqueMax LS2 v2 231/235
Cammotion Titan 4 227/232
EPS 226/234
Not sure what converter to run yet but was looking at the SS3600. Any other cams that should be added to the list?
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:38 PM   #2
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Any of those would work.

I'd probably do the EPS 226/234 and the SS3600. It'd be a nice driving car with good power.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:59 AM   #3
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Id also consider TSP Torquer 2 232/234 or Speed Inc SI5 231/237. Both of those would be a good size cam and perfect match with the SS3600.
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:42 AM   #4
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I vote Titan IV because I just bought one myself lol. Pairing it up with an FTI 3600.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:50 AM   #5
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Thanks. I will take a look at those cams. Anyone have any numbers for the cams listed to see what I can expect?
For what I want to do with the car, would something larger/smaller be better?
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrspwr View Post
Thanks. I will take a look at those cams. Anyone have any numbers for the cams listed to see what I can expect?
For what I want to do with the car, would something larger/smaller be better?
Ill throw in some input, take it with a grain of salt; TLDR = (EVERYTHING HERE IS IN REGARDS TO STREET CARS NATURALLY ASPIRATED) small cams are generally easier to make civil, big cams needs more gear and stall, making them much harder to drive on the street. Bigger cams (don't mistake with over-camming) can run hard if you build the car to run in the upper RPMs. If I were you, open a new tab, get the numbers to Cam Motion, Comp, Lunati, Tick and all the others and ask THEM. Who would have better info about THEIR cams?

Bigger cams require more gear and stall. Means more heat, bucking a surging while cruising in overdrive and in traffic. The make more power up top, and you may want to raise the rev limit quite a bit to take advantage of this power, which means more $$$ to make sure nothing breaks when you spin to 7500. Big cams have more overlap generally speaking, increasing reversion at low RPMs, soiling low end torque, increasing scavenging at high rpm making that much more power up top. Decreases vacuum, makes power brakes mushy. Small cams make more low end torque and less overlap, more drive-able and easier to tune. If you do it right it will drive like stock with a mild lope and more power overall. Don't necessarily need to rev high to make power, needs less stall, less heat = longer tranny life. Doesn't sound as cool with less overlap. Vacuum is usually good enough to run power brakes no problem. Should cruise in traffic and freeways no problem. As far as lift goes, my theory is if I run 243/799 heads that flow generally speaking 256 cfm at 550 and 257 at 600, why run cams with 600+ lift for gains not worth bragging about? Just more wear and tear. Means replacing springs more often. But if you want max effort and don't care, or have aftermarket/ported factory heads then things change.

As for ETs on the track? Hard to tell without going out yourself and talking to others personally. From what I have seen in regards to STREET CARS big cams are dogs unless you build the car to run at a much higher RPM, which hurts street-ability, street-ability is completely subjective btw. Big 230+ cams running mid 11s. Then there are much more tame 224/224 cams running...mid 11s. Then I see 220/224s running mid 11s. Sure you can make 230+ cams run low 11s high 10s on stock cubes but then your car is much (not harder) but annoying to drive on the street. Many people don't mind lots of overlap and high stall speeds, or maybe you don't want to sound like an 11 second pro-stocker. I personally don't want to have bigger bark than bite when I get owned by a stealth turbo sleeper junkyard build colorado...But maybe you like the way it feels and sounds, its a second kind of cool thing, do what you want its your car.

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Old 03-17-2017, 12:34 PM   #7
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That Titan 4 and SS3600 with 3.55 gears would be a killer combo both on the street and at the track in a light 3rd gen.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrspwr View Post
Looking for thoughts on a cam for an LS1. The car is an 86 Camaro, 3.55 rear gears, LS1/A4 with LS6 intake, long tubes and 3" exhaust. Car is 70/30 street/track. Want good numbers under the curve with close to 400whp.
The cams I am looking at are the:
Tick TorqueMax LS2 v2 231/235
Cammotion Titan 4 227/232
EPS 226/234
Not sure what converter to run yet but was looking at the SS3600. Any other cams that should be added to the list?
All 3 of those camshafts would be a great choice in an LS1 with and LS6 intake and 3600 stall.
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:58 PM   #9
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I Agree with Thunderstruck
Cam Motion Titan FTW!
IMO 225-230* is the sweet spot for intake duration
with +4-6* added exhaust split for 346" with more
street VS track use up to ~6500 RPM.
Along with The
Best Lobe Designs, & Phenomenal Customer Service.

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Old 03-17-2017, 03:04 PM   #10
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I'd look at Lunati 227/233 part number 20540714. Never seen a lazy Lunati Cam. That's only if your car will truly be a 70/30 street track car. If it is really a 90/10 id go a bit smaller.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:27 PM   #11
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Does anyone have any first hand experience with each cam with a similar setup? How does each perform, albeit, I am sure they will all be very close. How are the idle characteristics, how difficult is it to tune etc?
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:33 PM   #12
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So I have a 227/244 115... actually more overlap than some of those. Idles fine. Drives fine. No real surge or anything.

Can drive in traffic easily.

Mine is setup for a supercharger, which is why it has more exhaust duration.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:34 PM   #13
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My roommate has the Titan 4 in his Trans Am. It replaced a 230/238 113+2 Comp grind that had a lobe failure. Picked up some grunt under the curve but still pulls good up top too.

Tuning with a manual was really easy, took me no time at all. With an auto it should still be cake for anyone who is charging money to tune. If a tuner can't get that combo to idle and drive correct you are at the wrong shop.

He hasn't dynoed it or drag raced it, more into autox and just having a fun street car. It is healthy enough he is out of injector and goes lean at the very top. Once he finally gets injectors and I retune it he plans to take it to the strip.

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