Pushrod decision
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Pushrod decision
Hi Team,
Easy question I done some reading lot of different opinions.
My Mods:
243 heads cleaned up by the machine shop nothing special no port n polish just cleaned up n worked back to stock specs
Ls6 intake manifold
Stock cam
Should i get chromoloy push rods or use my stocks for now
Easy question I done some reading lot of different opinions.
My Mods:
243 heads cleaned up by the machine shop nothing special no port n polish just cleaned up n worked back to stock specs
Ls6 intake manifold
Stock cam
Should i get chromoloy push rods or use my stocks for now
#2
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If your cam and springs are still stock, use stock. if not, step up to 5/16"
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Yellow springs so I guess stock yes.
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
#5
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#6
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#9
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Normal chromoly push rods are cheap and less likely to bow and flex. I would always prefer a good rod like the Manton's mentioned above. Adding a cam will most likely have a smaller base circle and need a longer rod than the 7.4" stocker.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Thanks for everyone's reply and input! put my mind at ease...
I ordered some Trick flow 7.400 ones since the cam is stock and the rest of the mods are stock specs as well.
Thanks team appreciate it !
I ordered some Trick flow 7.400 ones since the cam is stock and the rest of the mods are stock specs as well.
Thanks team appreciate it !
#11
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Normal chromoly push rods are cheap and less likely to bow and flex. I would always prefer a good rod like the Manton's mentioned above. Adding a cam will most likely have a smaller base circle and need a longer rod than the 7.4" stocker.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
Hydraulic lifter systems are not as critical for position as a solid setup. It's still important though as the parts do wear into each other.
From a personal standpoint on a stockish motor I'd get a cheap set of chromoly from a good company. Once you go to a bigger cam and springs, go with a Manton series 3/4.
#12
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Yellow springs so I guess stock yes.
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
One problem though when I took them out i just put em away in a zip lock bag I didn't put them in order thinking I was gonna upgrade to chromoloy.
Is it okay to just drop em back in ?
Anyone else on their opinions stock or chromoloy?
#13
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
They will bow and flex as much as stock. The Chrome Moly doesn't alter the stiffness of the pushrod at all, only hardness and failure point.
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
heard the same, but the heads I got were in great condition with only 60 000KM on em...
Also the machine shop I took it to is pretty reputable around here, great work he did on em
and I asked him like 5 times if the spring rate/pressure was good and they were all holding the right rate/pressure he said.
but thinking about it I may just get blues, I could do a valve spring swap with the heads on the motor right.
#15
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Valve springs can be swapped with the heads installed. It's not a matter of spring stiffness, the fatigue life of the yellow springs have historically been limited and a number of guys have had a failure that then wiped out the piston. Since this is a new setup for you with springs that have been already run for some time, I would replace them with either new GM springs or an upgrade like the PSI 1511ML springs.
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
got my push rods, but when I install them do I have to push slightly down on them to push down on the lifter out of the tray a bit so it touches the cam?
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
#17
10 Second Club
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got my push rods, but when I install them do I have to push slightly down on them to push down on the lifter out of the tray a bit so it touches the cam?
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
and how much pressure would you say is necessary? I don't wanna push it to much or the all the way out and down into the crank case or too low and it grinds away at the cam when I start it or some ****..
#18
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Thanks 1970camaro got them down on the cams slight pressure.
What is everyone's take/tip on rocker arms ?
Tighten all at 22ft lbs ?
Tighten the ones down then the ones up rotate the crank
OR the 10000 ways that are confusing ?
What is everyone's take/tip on rocker arms ?
Tighten all at 22ft lbs ?
Tighten the ones down then the ones up rotate the crank
OR the 10000 ways that are confusing ?
#20
On The Tree
Thread Starter
How would I know if its at TDC? my front cover is still on, and engine is in the car.
I know I can put my finger over the sparkplug hole and feel the compression but once the compression is done the piston still has to go up a bit more to get to TDC no?
So how would I know when its exactly at TDC with the front cover on ?
I know I can put my finger over the sparkplug hole and feel the compression but once the compression is done the piston still has to go up a bit more to get to TDC no?
So how would I know when its exactly at TDC with the front cover on ?