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just purchased a 224/228 114 cam

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Old 07-21-2004, 01:47 PM
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Default just purchased a 224/228 114 cam

I need to know what else is absolutely necessary to install and run this cam safely.

I have hardened pushrods, 918 springs, and retainers on my list right now. Is this about all i need?

Also, i have to wait about a week and then drive 30 miles (probably a total of 100 miles for the week) to get my car dyno tuned. Will the stock tune handle this cam for around 100 pampered miles? such as if i take it easy on the motor and dont get on the throttle, will everything be ok for a week?

Thanks fellas.
Travis
Old 07-21-2004, 01:54 PM
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you will also need a gasket kit that comes with a new balancer bolt. they sell for $35 dollars at sdpc and texas speed. antifreeze also. good luck!!! and wnjoy the new power!!!!!!!!!
Old 07-21-2004, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by slik98z
I need to know what else is absolutely necessary to install and run this cam safely.

I have hardened pushrods, 918 springs, and retainers on my list right now. Is this about all i need?

Also, i have to wait about a week and then drive 30 miles (probably a total of 100 miles for the week) to get my car dyno tuned. Will the stock tune handle this cam for around 100 pampered miles? such as if i take it easy on the motor and dont get on the throttle, will everything be ok for a week?

Thanks fellas.
Travis
Springs
Retainers
Hardened PR's (not necessary, but why chance it)

Since you have a 98:
Oil Pump
New Timing Setup ( double roller if you can find them in stock)

Texas Speed carries a cam swap kit with the balancer bolt and the gaskets that you'll need.

Misc. stuff:
Locktite
Fuel rail tool
rags
5/16 rods to hold up the lifters (Lowes, Home Depot)

Good Luck
Old 07-21-2004, 01:59 PM
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I'm running on basically a stock tune (it's the canned Predator tune) on a bigger cam than that and I don't have any issues except needing to help it find idle on a hot start... you should be fine.

As for what you need, everything listed above, plus you might want to look into a new oil pump and chain since you've got a '98.

Also, you might want to have an 8mm 6 point socket for the rocker arms... the 12 point I was using started to round one of my rocker arm bolts, switched to a 6 point and no problems.
Old 07-21-2004, 02:16 PM
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The new oil pump and chain aren't neccessary, just depends on your mileage and budget. That 224/228 cam isn't that big and shouldn't put too much stress on the valvetrain. I am running a G5X3 with stock oil pump and stock chain with 85k miles on them. If you want to pull the oil pan and all that jazz then go for it, if you are strapped for cash, you have all that is needed, just get the waterpump gasket and timing chain cover gasket.
Old 07-21-2004, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Orange Peel
The new oil pump and chain aren't neccessary, just depends on your mileage and budget. That 224/228 cam isn't that big and shouldn't put too much stress on the valvetrain. I am running a G5X3 with stock oil pump and stock chain with 85k miles on them. If you want to pull the oil pan and all that jazz then go for it, if you are strapped for cash, you have all that is needed, just get the waterpump gasket and timing chain cover gasket.
agreed but imo unless you are totally broke, it is well worth the $200 for the ls6 ported oil pump and new timing chain from texas speed. You are already there might as well. It isn't hard to do the oil pump. And you don't need to drop the pan all the way, just loosen in up and drop it down a little.
Old 07-21-2004, 02:38 PM
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Is that $200 for both items total? Then you have to drop the k-member down some, either cherry pick the motor or use a jack underneath for support, to get the pan down some. Just a lot of work that isn't neccessary if it can be avoided. Hopefully the o-ring doesn't get messed up after install and then you have to pull it all over again.
Old 07-21-2004, 03:02 PM
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The pan will drop enough without dropping the k-member. It's still a pain in the *** to get the pickup tube bolted back on right though.
Old 07-21-2004, 03:17 PM
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i just went over the 50 k mile mark.
Old 07-21-2004, 03:44 PM
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You should be fine. Unless you really want to do it and have the money, go for it. I didn't have the money at the time, I will eventually when I see the need. I still see 60psi on my stock oil pump under throttle.
Old 07-21-2004, 03:54 PM
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orangepeel i think you owned this cam before i did, i got this from z28venom...? what did you run when you had it in? cause if i dont really need to change something i wont. the car will be driving maybe 15 miles a week when i leave for school in september. next summer i will be able to afford some more stuff. especially with a bday in october, just this is the time now to do the major work.

so springs, retainers, pushrods, gasket kit from a sponser, and a good tune eventually...this would get the job done right? i'd be happy with 370 rwhp. will i reach this with a ls1 intake...(trying to pick up a ls6 if funds permit before the tune though)?
Old 07-21-2004, 04:33 PM
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I had a 224/228 on a 112, and I just used the 918's, hardened rods, and titanium retainers. Stock tune for a year, just drilled the TB hole a little bigger for idle quality. with stock manifold untuned I got 371rwho through a 12 bolt. With LS6 intake and tuned I got 379 rwhp through the 12 bolt.

I would say you would be fine without the pump and chain, later down the road do it if you want.
Old 07-21-2004, 04:45 PM
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what about sdpc's valve spring kit they have, 180 for manley springs (good to .600 lift) and titanium retainers? are these any good? and i need 7.400 hardened pushrods right?
Old 07-21-2004, 04:55 PM
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Stock length pushrods, not sure the number. Never used the manley's, but I am sure they are fine. It's up to you, I trust Comp, so I got that spring
Old 07-22-2004, 01:08 AM
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I am using the Manley Spring Kit and they work great. I also used the Manley 7.400" Pushrods as well. All of these parts are at SDPC. The 1998 Oil Pumps are not the greatest and while you are in there, replace the pump and timing chain. It make no sense to do the job twice. I bought a ported LS6 Pump and Double Roller Chain from less than $200. It is all about the details when it comes to things like this. You will be spinning the motor 6500+ and don't skimp on parts. I see well over 60psi with the ported oil pump and it much better than the stock 98 pump.
Old 07-22-2004, 05:28 PM
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I ran a 224/224 cam for months without a tune and it ran fine. I didn't have idle probelms either. You may need to drill the TB just a hair with your overlap, but I'm guessing you will be able to make it till you can tune it. Also, I think a new timing chain makes good sense. Even a stock chain. Think about it, you are applying stiffer springs, more radical cam lobes and more redline speed. That all translates into increased stress on the chain and possible cam timing slack.

Oh, and I would throw a degree wheel on it while it is all apart, just to verify. I guarantee you will be chasing HP and the question will come up if you checked the cam specs. You will never really know unless you check it against the card. Good luck.
Old 07-22-2004, 06:46 PM
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how about tsp's mail order tune? Jason at TSP said he could make me a tune via mail order that would work great. anyone else use one of their mail order tunes? sure beats the 550 i was quoted locally!
T
Old 07-23-2004, 04:34 PM
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Orange Peel Did you dyno 279hp with stock exhaust manifolds or stock intake? Im looking into getting the 224/228 on a 114lsa and was wondering how you liked the cam. I was wondering what kind of drivability and gas mileage i would be able to pull with it on a decent tune from mti. do u think 16/26 would be possible? Also, is gas mileage/drivabilty a lot worse with the g5x3 cam? Can the bottom end handle that kind of cam stock for 100k with the write springs,valves, pushrods?
Old 07-23-2004, 04:35 PM
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sorry that was 379rwhp not 279
Old 07-23-2004, 05:12 PM
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I had Mac headers and stock LS1 intake and NO tune with the 371RWHP, and then I added Long tubes, LS6 intake and tune and got the 379 RWHP, it was a different dyno and a lot hotter with the 379 RWHP dyno, and I had the 224/228 on a 112 lobe, not a 114.. 16/26 should be easily attainable with the 224/228 cam, I get roughly 19 mpg in the city with my X3, don't know the highway mileage. Drivability is the exact same for me from the 224/228 to the X3, I have no issues with driving the car every single day, 50+ miles a day. The bottom end can handle a LOT more than a little X3 cam, the springs, pushrods, etc are a different story, some get 30k miles to the Comp 921's. The pushrods should last a long time, it's the springs that won't last as long. But no way I see them lasting a 100k miles, if you mean on a 100k mile car, then you should still be ok with the X3, if you are looking at that cam. I have 85k miles on my car.


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