Callies crank users
07-25-2004, 05:55 PM
#1
Callies crank users My 4.000 Callies crank has dual keyways. Can I not use the keyways and torque my crank bolt to factory specs? Otherwise, I assume I will have to cut a notch in my ASP pulley. Is this right? If I do the latter, what ft/lbs should I torque the bolt? The motor will be n/a with maybe a small shot (no more than 200) in the future. Trying to decide if I should use the keys or not (unless I have to).
07-25-2004, 06:02 PM
#2
Wonder how you ended up with a dual keyway?Are you refering to the one slot with 2 pieces in it, or is there actually 2 diffrent grooves cut in the crank? If it is the one slot/2 weights, thats how it is supposed to be. One on the back for the timing chain and one up front for the pulley. If it actually has 2 grooves cut, than I would have my pulley machined for it and be happy cause it will be stronger.
07-25-2004, 06:16 PM
#3
Yes, it has one slot and two keys. But the only motors I have heard that have problems with the pulley slipping on the crank are boosted applications. If I do cut the pulley and timing chain sproket, what should I torque the bolt (ARP) to? Hopefully not the wrist breaking 250 ft/lbs lol.
07-25-2004, 06:26 PM
#4
After taking a closer look, I see what your saying. The LS-1 pulley dosen't have a groove cut in it for the keyway. Either way, this is still a single keyway set-up. A dual keyway has 2 actuall grooves cut for slipping purposes like you said. Callies just decided to carry it all the way out in case you wanted to cut your pulley I guess. I would say that you could just remove the outer key and install your pulley like normal if you like, or you could have it cut for stregnth. The timing sprocket should already have a groove cut in it so it dosen't slip. You should need no modifacation there. You should follow the same procedure as stock for torquing the pully. Use the stock bolt to seat at whatever ft. lb, then remove and install your new bolt and torque to 37ft lb's I believe.
07-25-2004, 08:14 PM
#5
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1 key is for the timing set. The other key is optional but since the ASP pulley does not have a key in it you either have to ditch the key or the pulley. I was running with the ASP pulley on my callies with no key and it ended up spinning and my crank actually ate away some of the material and I could pull the asp off by hand. I then switched to an ATI UD pulley which does have the key way and my issue was solved. I would say get a UD pulley/dampener with a keyway and sell the ASP. May as well make use of the key since it is there.
07-25-2004, 08:19 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Mike K.
1 key is for the timing set. The other key is optional but since the ASP pulley does not have a key in it you either have to ditch the key or the pulley. I was running with the ASP pulley on my callies with no key and it ended up spinning and my crank actually ate away some of the material and I could pull the asp off by hand. I then switched to an ATI UD pulley which does have the key way and my issue was solved. I would say get a UD pulley/dampener with a keyway and sell the ASP. May as well make use of the key since it is there.
