CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, what matters more, what the box tells you it is, or what the cam card reads? I ordered TR's "Old Man" cam, because I wanted something a little more powerful than stock, but didn't want the computer to freak out on me. The cam was advertised as "215/220 .600/.523 115 LSA" But the cam card reads a 114LSA. I emailed them, but never got a responce. Will the extra point on the LSA make a big difference? I'm in an A4 BTW. Thanks.

Trojan T/A

iTrader: (1)

It shouldnt make too much of a difference since the duration numbers are really small. If it loped a little at idle on stock tuning it would be very minimal and would go away with a slight idle increase.

From the cam card, can you tell me the advertised duration of the cam or other durations given at different points?

horist

shouldn't make a difference... but... was it a full point? or was it 114.5 or higher? you should have gotten an accuracy to the tenth when it was cam doctored...

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

I don't think I'm decoding this thing right. There is a square sticker (which I thought was the cam card) on the reverse side of a computer print out. The print has two sections, and they are identical on the right and top colums. Right side from top to bottom is "Lobe, Centerline, .050 Lift C/L, Runout, Peak Open Acc., Peak Nose Acc., Peak Close Acc., Lift @ TDC, Minimum Flat, and Follower Dia." On the top, from left to right is as follows; " Lift, Dur., Open, Close, and Area" the numbers below are greek to me. Which would you like me to give you? Thanks for taking a look.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

as far as i know TR sends all there cams with there doctored spec sheet, it'll get you the exact specs of your cam and not what the advertised specs are. my old TR230 spec'd out at 230.3/224.1 .578/.564 110.5

Another_User

I wouldn't sweat it at all. All that means is your get a hair more mid-range power. Either way, you'll never notice.

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

Okay, stupid me forgot I had a scanner sitting right on top of my desk. Here is a picture of the cam card. Could somebody please translate? Thanks a lot.




PS: I've been trying to make it larger for over an hour now, but this was the best I could do. Sorry.

black_z

iTrader: (4)

I cant read it, or else I would help ya out man.

Another_User

Well that is definitely 114 LSA. You average the intake and exhaust LCA.

But...I don't exactly understand why you bought that cam. Why would you want to have more intake lift than exhaust lift (of course I don't know why people get such high lift cams anyways being as the flow settles out way before that). That has got to be like the worst cam I have ever seen. Are people really running cams like that? I don't even know what that would be good for unless you have a vacuum cleaner sucking your exhaust out. I don't know everything (hmmm....anything) about cams, but that doesn't look like the ideal camshaft to me. In fact, I would wager that the cam you got is crap based on your signature, if you are running stock heads and no headers.

Calculating you actual lift based on the peak lift on the card, the real lift is .600/.530.

m1key99WS6

iTrader: (1)

That cam is similar to the cam I have, I've got a 216/220 .579 .589 114. It appears to be just a little less lift on the one side. These cams have very good drivability. I've never had any type of idle problem or anything with it. It drives and idles like a stock cam.

Another_User

Yes, but you have more lift on the exhaust side, which is where you need it. Not a gross amount of useless lift on your intake. That cam is way F'ed up.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

I had the same f'ed up thought when I first saw this thread, initally I thought it was a misprint. The intake lift seems to defy logic. A good case could be made for dual springs. I wish one of our cam gurus would make some comments.

Trojan T/A

iTrader: (1)

Interesting by the cam doctor. The intake lobe is mmuch more aggressive, but not as much as an XE-R lobe. Also this is a 214/220 not a 215/220 that they wrote down. It should idle very smooth on the 114lsa and has 2* of advance ground in. This cam has proven to have good gains over the LS6 cam and retain a stockish idle.

Another_User

Looking at those specs, I really doubt it. Even the LS6 cam has more exhaust lift than that. And just about the same duration. I think that cam=poop. Especially without heads or headers.

Geoff

iTrader: (3)

Yeah,

That cam is a real POS . We have tested it time and time again. YOU DON'T NEED THAT MUCH LOBE ON THE EXHAUST TO MAKE POWER WITH AN LS1!!!! This cam has consistantly outpowered the LS6 cam with a stock idle. It frustrates me at the amount of misinformation floating around here about cams. I just put this cam in my truck and picked up 40 H.P. over the stock cam, with a completely stock idle.

Geoff

KGSloan

have you ever seen graphs for this cam???

it has proven itself to be a pretty respectable stealth cam. you're just making assumtions based on no actual data.

Another_User

Yeah...but it sure doesn't make a lot of sense. People are generating plenty of power without some whacked-out variance between intake and exhaust lift.

It just sounds like a good way to eat springs.

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

When they grind a cam its not always on themoney. Mine had a bit more lift that it should have and a wider LSA. We wanted a 112 and it was a 112.5.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

Another_User you have no place talking **** about the OMC when you have a freaking hotcam, shorties, and flowmasters

if you pulled your head out of your *** and did some research on the cam you'd find threads on its conception and the reasoning behind the specs.

FASTONE

Cam specs LDA 115,ICL 112.5 .INTAKE ADV. DURATION 264.6. @.050 213.8, @.200 140.1, LIFT WITH 1.75 ROCKER .616.


EXHAUST ADV. DURATION 275.@ .050 220,@.200 132.3, LIFT .544

THE idea on this cam was low intake duration @ .050 for good street manners,but notice the fast ramp and high lift to improve power and still be stealthy.Seems these worked pretty good!