Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

--- New stuff --
Head bolt set
Head gaskets
Main pully bolt
Fully assembled short block w/ oil pump, cam already in
Lifters
Oil press sensor I broke

--- Old stuff ---
Take off heads (complete w/ dbl springs), pushrods, oil pan, front/rear covers, etc.

Do I need new gaskets for my headers?

robertbartsch

Beats me; how about this stuff:

Thread locker
header gaskets
oil pickup tube
new lifters
hardened push rods
new oil/filter
Timing chain
timing chain cover seal and gasket
scotch pads for cleaning old head surface
tap and dies for cleaning out rocker bolt holes
radiator fluid (red not green)
oil pump seal 0-ring
flywheel, throw-out bearing, clutch
Engine hoist
rags
LS1 Edit
Small PC w/MS Windows
large knuckle bandaids!
book of choice curse words
endless bank account with checking overdraft
Your wife's credit cards

CHECK THE BACK OF THE NEW BLOCK - there is an oil galley passage hole that often does not have a plug in it; forget this and you have to remove the engine again or tranny....

robertbartsch

Oh yeh, how about a few cans of AC freon... and maybe:

an AC Vacuum pump
AC pressure guages
flyweel pulley installation tool
endless sockets and wrenches
a good tork wrench
engine stand
jack stands
oil drain collector
Jacks
ramps
Flyweel lock tool (A4)
A lift
Compressor
air tools...
a licence to practice auto mechanics
lead pipe for crank bolt removal

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Got all that stuff

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Ok, they are not sure if the oil pump I ordered comes with a oil pump seal (oring?)

And I do NOT have LS1EDIT, I have a feeling my car will not idle without that either, and I don't have the $$ to buy it.

robertbartsch

my H/C swap ran fine without LS1Edit; it was a little rich and did not pass inspection so I bought the $600 program - PITA to run.....

Is you shortblock 346 or bigger?

Did I memtion bigger fuel injectors
Full roller rockers
new valve springs
titanium retainers
new spark plugs
spark plug wires?

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

New short block is 408CI iron block.

The stock 98 28lb/hr injectors won't work? Why do I need to replace my roller rockers, the 1.7 ratio is fine, will they break? I already have double valve springs and titanium retainers.

Also I have MSD spark plug wires that were on the car, they should be fine shouldn't they? And I plan to get new plugs.

robertbartsch

Polypropline engine and transmission mounts?
New 12 bolt rear?
Street slicks
Nitros kit?

robertbartsch

Sounds great!

...injectors probably ok for time being - if u change these to bigger units, however, you MUST have LS1Edit....

Good luck!

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Do you think the car will idle with that big of a cam in there? The car has been tuned for a bigger unknown grind cam that was in there before I started tinkering with it, and the TB blade also has a hole drilled in it.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Is there a extra gasket / seal thing that I need to put between the oil pick up line and the oil pump? I thought there should be but there was none when i took my pickup line off.

robertbartsch

Do you mean the O-ring that goes on the oil pick-up tube which is bolted (single bolt) to the oil pump. There should be a thick 0-ring on this tube - ussually blue or green in color.... without this you will almost zero oil pressure.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Sweet! I definantly need one of them then. There was not one on my pick up when I took it off (which will probably explain my low oil pressure).

The car ran that way for quite some time from what I understand.

So to install a oil pump I need a seal for the back and the pickup line? I assume if I go down to the local dealer they will be able to order these for me?

robertbartsch

It is the only GM part that my Chevy dealer carries in stock - oil pump o-rings!

'''remember to check the oil galley freeze plug on the back of the block before you install the engine/tranny; lots of folks here have forgotten that and end up with no oil pressure.... obviously, the 0-ring is critical too...

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Great, what about my alternator bracket? I heard it won't bolt up to the iron block

robertbartsch

Not sure on that one. You should post a separate question with the tittle, "LQ4 iron block swap - alternator bracket"

You might also post a separate question about the fuel injectors on the "Tuning" section of this board.

I know long-tube headers make your O2 sensors over-compensate and run the motor rich. Since you now have a bigger motor that requires more fuel your factory tune and injectors may be close. I'm sure those who know will tell you to get the full performance from a 408ci motor you need to get bigger injectors AND a tune....

Take their advice with a grain of salt...

What I do recommend is that you run a computer analysis program after the install. These are cheap ($80). This will tell you whether your motor is rich or lean. Remember a rich motor will not casue damage -- a very lean motor will cause detonation and will cause lots of internal damage....


One other MAJOR item. When you remove your coil packs mark them with tape. Driver's side front, passanfger's side front.

If you don't your ignition will likely be totally screwed up!!!!

BLKWS6

The coils are all the same. Why would that mess it up?

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

I didn't have to remove the coil packs from the valve covers.