derek_silvy

I bought an air fitting tool to run compressed air into my cylinder and it doesn't seem like any of the fittings thread into my head! Needless to say, I'm mad... but I want to get these springs done if the couple of hours I have free tonight.

Now, LS1howto says that you can bring the piston to tdc and the valve will just BARELY fall until it hits the piston, and I assume will still leave enough stem vissable to be able to compress the new spring and lock them.

Does this TDC method work?

Any problems with it if the fly is locked in position? Just give me info please.

Ben R

I saw somebody bend a couple of pushrods using that method. I'm not sure if they followed the instructions correctly, nor am I very familiar with the 'TDC Method', but just for piece of mind, I would get an air tool fitting that worked with my cylinder head. That's just me though.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

The tdc method works great, i used it. The valve only goes down like a quarter inch and you only have to go a little past that before the locks are free. I'm not sure how you could bend pushrods since they're not even in the engine when you're doing a spring swap. If you're flywheel is locked you'll only be able to do 2 cylinders, then you'll have to unlock it and turn the engine 90 degrees, then do 2 more, etc.

derek_silvy

Good to hear!
Also -- How many times must I turn the crank and look for the holes lined up to insure that I degreed it right. Like, say for instance it was one tooth off, and I turned it 10 times, would it show me that it was off then?

I found a way to redneck rig up my cylinder compression fitting to make it thread in. I'll bring it to tdc AND run compressed air in there for added insurance.

ram-it

Yes it works! Once you find TDC all you do is turn it over by hand 90deg and change the next ones. I do not remember the actual number sequence though. Now when you are reinserting the retainers be sure to pull the valve up all the way. Just makes it easier and takes a few turns off the spring compression tool. Believe me, anywhere you can shave off a couple of turns adds up.

SeeYaSucker

TDC and Air method work, also the JPR tool works nice

Jake99SS

Yup, I make sure my valves stay up when I'm putting the new spring/retainer together. You don't have to compress the spring as much. I just use the piston as a "safety net" in case one of the valves does decide to drop.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I am not sure what you're asking here, by holes do you mean the dots on the cam and crank gears? Are you talking about degreeing the cam or putting the pistons at tdc? To find tdc I just made sure the dot on the cam gear was at the right angle by eyeballing it as described on ls1howto. Oh yeah, if you're using the larry tool an air ratchet makes this go really fast.