ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I received my Lunati 395 kit today!!!
Christmas in August!

I'm taking the kit to the machine shop tomorrow, where my block has been waiting to come home with me for almost 2 months! I originally was planning on building a stock motor (converting a '94 3.4 V6 into this 395). I pieced together my parts over 6 months (ebay), and actually got the motor for a little over a grand ($300 for the short block).

When I finally received the last of the parts, I started to strip down the short block, I found that the previous owner had spun #6, and the crank was worn (anyone want to buy a worn crank?). So, I called around used my connections and ordered up the 395 kit.

I'm in Los Angeles, so I'm not sure what the smog ****'s will say at smog time, especially with me planning on going with the Lunati 55009LUN cam (with a custom 114 seperation grind, as per the guys at Lunati).

The car will still be a daily driver (I did it with a 383 so I'm hoping I can with a 395). The only trip to the track will probably be to shut the mouth of a certain F150 lighting owner that thinks he can beat Vettes.

Over the years that I have owned it, I have already upgraded the peg leg open 3.42 rear to a Zexel Torsen limited slip, RK Sport adj shocks, LS1 front brakes, rear drum to LT1 style rear disc, unibody chassis connectors, Goodyear 245/50 ZR16 GSD-3 tires.

My problem is since I purchased everything planning on a 346, which of the following components should be changed out (This is what I already have):

1. LS1 intake (planning on going with LS6, the FAST is way too $$$ for me)
2. Edelbrock #65732 Nickel Shorty Headers
3. Stock Y pipe, although will have the muffler shop replace the flattened section
4. Stock WS6 exhaust (hey it was free), for now
5. Stock LS1 oil pump (I was going to port it and send it to Agostinos for coating), or should I get an LS6 pump? Arent they the same?
6. Stock 28.8 injectors (do I need 30# SVO or 42.5 Green Lucas injectors?)
7. Stock MAF and Throttle body.
8. LS6 Valley Cover
9. SLP lid and K&N filter will stay
10. 99 ECU & engine Harness
11. 2000 dash, dash harness and cluster & center console
12. Profab LS1 K member
13. T-56 (ordering complete rebuild kit and steel 3/4 shifter)
14. I still need drive shaft, aluminum ok for the 395?
15. Keeping the 10 bolt for now, may go (Moser?) 9" later
16. Stock Timing chain and gear (will get a better one, but might not go double roller, is it really needed?)
17. I have a set of stock heads and stock 317 heads. Should I port the stock, or use the 317, or sell both and get use the money towards AFR heads?
18. Springs, stock LS1 and 317 springs. Should I replace with Patriot gold?
19. Stock lifters and pushrods
20. Stock 99 (or 2000?) plastic gas tank and fuel pump.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    

I think thats it. Whew.

Many thanks in advance for any tips.

David

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Thoes shory headers are gona choke the power on that motor big time. I wouldnt risk all that money to an LS1 oil pump, dont install it unless its an LS6, ported that is. For injectors you will need the SVO 30#ers. Bigger MAF (LS6 maf) and a ported throttle body. For the Drive shaft id get a nitrous ready drive shaft. With the amount of Tq that 395 is gona make your gona twist thats aluminum like its nothing. That 10 bolt will not survive the first time you romp on it, again becasue of the TQ. Get a better timing chain that stock, they can and have failed. A motor like that is pointless without ported heads. again you will be putting a choke on the breathing of the motor. Its no question, you will need a double spring. stock lifter will be okay depending on the lift of the cam, and get hardend pushrods.

Got expensive didnt it. Thoes are just the min that anyone would recomend for a motor like that. When putting that kind of money into a project, you cant skip on some of the quality of the parts.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I swapped out the L98 in my '86 IROC with a ZZZ Crate motor, then stroked that out to a 383 and put an Accel DFI intake and Fuel injection system on it. I think it was around 430 HP IIRC, and the stock 10 bolt (even weaker back then?) hung with my driving, although it wasnt posi, IIRC only my 88 was. I used to run 245 50 ZR 16 Goodyear GSC up front and 255 GSC-S (soft compund) in the back never had a prob. I thought I would only get into trouble with the 395 LS1 and 10 bolt rear if I used slicks?

Do you think the 317 heads still need to be ported, or do they flow good enough for the 395? I will need to mill them to raise the compression back to 10.8. I don't want to run compression ihigher than that because most gas stations here in Cali only have 91 octane (a few do have 100+ racing fuel at a premium).

Yeah, I figured that. The cam specs are:

http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr...CC/Chevy6.html

(last one on the bottom: 55009LUN)
But Lunati suggested that I have the seperation changed to 114°

Yes, it did...real quick and I broke my hand/wrist on the fourth of july and have been out of work since then and will still be until mid september

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

A stock LS1 can snap the 10 bolt, just pray that you dont get traction. For the heads, Id look at a set of patriots with theyre dual valve spring already installed, and talk to them about a cam thats matched to the flow charateristics of the head. With that cam you will be ok with stock lifters, just jeck wht condition therye in. Id also look to a spec stage 3 to hold the kind of numbers your gona be putting up. Also look into some ARP rod bolts. For the headers id check around for a set of the thunder racing headers in the 1-7/8 size to help that motor breathe. Its late right now, but ill look through your set up more after I get some rest, and others will chime in. As or right now you should think about what you need to support the amount of power your gona be making(fuel system, driveine, intake and exhaust)

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Are the rod bolts that come with the Lunati rotating ***'y inferior?

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

Most people upgrade to ARP, as they're the best.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

1. ls6 is good but your leaving power on the table
2. shorties , you'll choke the **** out of the motor. if you are willing to accept that its fine
3. dont bother ******* with the Y if your keeping the shorties, the stock flat Y flows just as well as those aftermarket replacements.
4. see 2nd part of #2
5. get an ls6 pump from any one of the sponsors and get a new o-ring. im partial to TSP for there great price
6. get the 30#'ers, you'll most likely be rurnning to high of an injector duty cycle with the 28#'s.
7. stock MAF is fine; TB see #4
8-13.
14. depends on your application, daily driving the stock aluminum DS is fine.
15. see first part of #14
16. you shouldnt even have to ask
17. my understanding is the AFR 225's are some time off, even when they are available im sure they'll be hard to come by due to demand. you can sell the stock heads you have and put that ~500 bucks toward the AFR's or look into another sponsors ported 6.0 heads.
18. see #16
19. see #16
20. get the tank and look into the Racetronixs fuel pump setup. (255 intake w/ plug and play harness)

jrp

iTrader: (16)

what kind of pistons come with the kit? dished or flat top?

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

-11cc Reverse Dome 10.6:1 compression ratio, PN LS3R512S0

http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr.../IECP/LS1.html


The complete rotating kit is the EA035-395 more specs on this web site:
http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr..._LS6Rotat.html

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I have the LS6 instake on its way. A recent Super Chevy tested all the intake manifolds and the F.A.S.T. intake wasn't impressive enought for me to spend $700~$900 (which doesnt even include gaskets). Actually, I was impressed with the OEM Truck intake (although it wouldnt fit under teh hood of an Fbody). Anyway, This can always be changed later (easily).

I typed Nickel, but I meant to type Ceramic. The 1 3/4 stepped headers would probably flow better,don't you think? http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html (exhaust systems then competition headers #6570)

What's wrong with the exhaust? It is 3" all the way back. Is it the muffler that is restrictive? Once again, easy to change at a later date, if needed.

Would 42.5 Lucas injectors be too big? or can they be tuned to run at a lower pulse width?

The TB is from a 2001 SS. I was going to port it myself unless I fiond a great deal on a larger one.

I wasn't asking about replacing the stock components I did search through the archives I meant to ask whether the double roller is really needed. I was thinking of using the single style.

I will most likely stick with my stock 317 heads using Patriot springs.

I already have the OEM tank and pump, but will replace the inline pump before installing it.

Thanks for the tips!

D