Fired up the T-rex for the 1st time tonight!!!
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Fired up the T-rex for the 1st time tonight!!!
The T-rex cammed, bolt-on LS1 fired up for the first time tonight! Tyler was there to hear it. Thanks for the help Tyler, Shawn, and Justin!
We started it up for the 1st heat cycle of the valve springs with the y-pipe open, I warned my neighbors beforehand that it would be LOUD. It started right up, idled a little high b/c the idle screw on the throttlebody was all the way up. But we fixed that and let it go through it's 20 min cycle, loving the sound of it, even though it was idling at 1500 rpm, it still sounded MEAN. It did get down to 1100 rpm for a couple mins and had a VERY nice lope to it. I hope to tune the idle down to 950 rpm or so.
It was a TON of work and I am glad it's over. And I can say I did the work myself, with a little help from a few friends.
Here's a list of everything that was done, not counting having to helicoil a rocker arm bolt hole in the head (thanks ALOT Shawn!), or having to take off the driver side head b/c of a rocker arm dumping it's needle bearings and retainer in the pushrod hole (glad I was doing these mods, only way I found this out), and a few other problems that always seem to pop up along the way. Anyway, here's the list of everything done this time around...
Thunder Racing T-Rex cam (243/249 .608"/.613" 110 LSA)
Patriot Gold dual valve spring kit
Thunder Racing heat treated chrome-moly pushrods
LS6 intake manifold
Jantzer ported and black powdercoated throttle body
Rollmaster heat treated adjustable double roller timing set
Ported LS6 oil pump
March Underdrive pulley
ARP Pro Series rod bolts
Prothane poly mount motors
Edelbrock Victor Series drag headers: 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" stepped long -tubes with merge collectors and off-road y-pipe
!EGR
!A.I.R.
Doesn't sound like a whole lot, but to do all this, the engine was at one point suspended by a hoist still in the car, sitting as a shortblock with just the passenger side head on, oil pan off and the rod caps exposed for the rod bolt upgrade. Of course, the k-member was dropped, the accessories were off, the intake was off, exhaust, etc.
Other mods waiting to go in: WS6 hood, subframes, and 10 bolt 4.10's (might just wait for a 9" with 4.33's). I'm sure VERY SOON I'll need to buy a SPEC 3I clutch too.
We started it up for the 1st heat cycle of the valve springs with the y-pipe open, I warned my neighbors beforehand that it would be LOUD. It started right up, idled a little high b/c the idle screw on the throttlebody was all the way up. But we fixed that and let it go through it's 20 min cycle, loving the sound of it, even though it was idling at 1500 rpm, it still sounded MEAN. It did get down to 1100 rpm for a couple mins and had a VERY nice lope to it. I hope to tune the idle down to 950 rpm or so.
It was a TON of work and I am glad it's over. And I can say I did the work myself, with a little help from a few friends.
Here's a list of everything that was done, not counting having to helicoil a rocker arm bolt hole in the head (thanks ALOT Shawn!), or having to take off the driver side head b/c of a rocker arm dumping it's needle bearings and retainer in the pushrod hole (glad I was doing these mods, only way I found this out), and a few other problems that always seem to pop up along the way. Anyway, here's the list of everything done this time around...
Thunder Racing T-Rex cam (243/249 .608"/.613" 110 LSA)
Patriot Gold dual valve spring kit
Thunder Racing heat treated chrome-moly pushrods
LS6 intake manifold
Jantzer ported and black powdercoated throttle body
Rollmaster heat treated adjustable double roller timing set
Ported LS6 oil pump
March Underdrive pulley
ARP Pro Series rod bolts
Prothane poly mount motors
Edelbrock Victor Series drag headers: 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" stepped long -tubes with merge collectors and off-road y-pipe
!EGR
!A.I.R.
Doesn't sound like a whole lot, but to do all this, the engine was at one point suspended by a hoist still in the car, sitting as a shortblock with just the passenger side head on, oil pan off and the rod caps exposed for the rod bolt upgrade. Of course, the k-member was dropped, the accessories were off, the intake was off, exhaust, etc.
Other mods waiting to go in: WS6 hood, subframes, and 10 bolt 4.10's (might just wait for a 9" with 4.33's). I'm sure VERY SOON I'll need to buy a SPEC 3I clutch too.
Last edited by BuckeyeROC; 08-12-2004 at 10:42 PM.
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Thanks guys, I'll try to get some sound clips.
I'd also like to thank JmX for his install guides, they were my Bibles for all this stuff. YOUR ARE THE MAN JmX! Also, thanks to felton316 for the rod bolt info!
I'd also like to thank JmX for his install guides, they were my Bibles for all this stuff. YOUR ARE THE MAN JmX! Also, thanks to felton316 for the rod bolt info!
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Originally Posted by 2002$$
yeah post some sound clips,PLEASE.hey are you gonna daily drive this car? if so, how many miles a week?when are you going to check the springs(how many miles)?TIA.
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all right,but say you drove...100-200 miles a week.would you be safe? would it last just normal driving? b/c while your at the track..basically KILLING your motor(im not sayin i dont smash),but why would it not take the punishment,of normal everyday driving then?maybe most racing on weekend, but driving it to work a couple of days to work.
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Originally Posted by 2002$$
all right,but say you drove...100-200 miles a week.would you be safe? would it last just normal driving? b/c while your at the track..basically KILLING your motor(im not sayin i dont smash),but why would it not take the punishment,of normal everyday driving then?maybe most racing on weekend, but driving it to work a couple of days to work.
#10
congrats on the install! Isn't it great to start up the car right after a cam install? When I started mine up for the first time, it was awesome... my neighbors didn't think so though.
#11
Some people have different idead of what can and cant be daily driven. i personally tolerate alot if the product works great. People told me my PT4000 isnt good for a street car but i love it and would never take it out.
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Thanks guys, and I have to say, after hooking up the Hooker catback today, this might be THE best sounding car I've heard. Seriously, all bias aside, it sounds absolutely WICKED! Especially at 1100 rpm idle.
And I drove it 30 mins to get an alignment and 30 mins back. On stock tune w/ 3.42's, no bucking at 2000 rpm, and drivability was ok. I'm sure with a tune, it could be daily driver material.
And I drove it 30 mins to get an alignment and 30 mins back. On stock tune w/ 3.42's, no bucking at 2000 rpm, and drivability was ok. I'm sure with a tune, it could be daily driver material.
Last edited by BuckeyeROC; 08-13-2004 at 06:14 PM.
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Originally Posted by BuckeyeROC
Thanks guys, and I have to say, after hooking up the Hooker catback today, this might be THE best sounding car I've heard. Seriously, all bias aside, it sounds absolutely WICKED! Especially at 1100 rpm idle.
And I drove it 30 mins to get an alignment and 30 mins back. On stock tune w/ 3.42's, no bucking at 2000 rpm, and drivability was ok. I'm sure with a tune, it could be daily driver material.
And I drove it 30 mins to get an alignment and 30 mins back. On stock tune w/ 3.42's, no bucking at 2000 rpm, and drivability was ok. I'm sure with a tune, it could be daily driver material.
You need to hear one with a Borla Adjustable Catback You can get the sound just like you want it. I plan on putting the electric plate in to allow me to adjust it going down the road. It is interesting your idle is soo high. Mine idled perfectly with the stock tune, it fired up and instantly found the idle and I drove it for a week or so like that.
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Just took it for a REAL drive for the first time, 90 mph has NEVER come so fast and effortlessly. This thing SCREAMS from 6000-7100 rpm. I can't imagine it with a tune and 4.33's instead of the stock tune and 3.42's!!!
Used HP Tuners to adjust idle, delete AIR, EGR, and rear O2's and set rev limiter to 7100 rpm. So far, it's tripped ZERO codes. I logged some data, going to look over it.
Used HP Tuners to adjust idle, delete AIR, EGR, and rear O2's and set rev limiter to 7100 rpm. So far, it's tripped ZERO codes. I logged some data, going to look over it.
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Originally Posted by 35th SS
just wined mine up last night 3rd gear to 7k on 3.89 gearing.rev.limeter set @7200rpm.want to step it up to a 4.57gearing on the 9in.