$4.5K Motor/Trans Build: I Need Advice?
08-28-2004, 03:39 PM
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$4.5K Motor/Trans Build: I Need Advice? At 100K miles my TA finally bit it last Spring. Given the miles, and the fact I've owned it for 6 years I'm really ready for a new car (thinking CTS-V at this point), but obviously the car isn't sellable in its current condition. it is however paid off, so if I do a fun enough build up I might keep it as a toy. So I've budgeted $4,500 to repair the motor and trans (+Plus another $1500 for Labor), if it goes beyond that then I think I should just sell the TA as is with mods to someone looking for a project car. So with that in mind I would like to tap the current expertise on the board to help me reach my goals with the car.
Desired End State: I am NOT looking for a drag racer, or even a car that idles like one. I want the car to make as much power as possible in a package that idles and sounds stock, gets decent gas mileage and can go another 100K miles if needed. My primary performance goal is a car that is civil as a stocker around town, can be a daily driver commuter in stop and go traffic, and even make long hauls down to the coast. First and foremost I want to do this repair and not have to worry about tuning the car, and mothering it with maintenance. The only competition it might see again at my hands would be the occasional Autocross or Mountain run.
Existing Mods Prior to the failure the car was making 330 RWHP with all the usual bolt ons and full exhaust. It has on it right now. Mac full length headers with cats, B&B Tri Flow Exhaust, Whisper lid and MAF, HPP with no power tuning added, 3.73 gears, Raptor Ram air Hood and WS6 air box. (Lots of other mods, but those are the ones that affect power).
Existing condition The Tranny is a loss, the synchros are dead and the tranny never fully recovered from the abuse of beta testing every clutch out there back in 1998. The motor has a blown wrist pin and requires a rebuild. The rest of the motor should be in a condition you'd expect a 100K mile motor to be in.
Myself and my friends have had nothing but bad experiences with local engine builders, so I'm tempted to just get the SLP 402 Short Block and bolt on my stocker heads and cam. My only concern there is having to budget extra for front suspension mods to accommodate the extra 100 pounds in weight from the iron motor. I would much prefer sticking with the Aluminum block, but would hate to have to find a decent local builder.
Budget: So I have $4,500 for parts and $1,500 for labor. Anything more and I'll just put the TA up for sale as is. Maybe even remove all the bolt ons and sell it as a stock car in need of a drivetrain.
So now is a chance to give "Vader" a second life, anyone want to help give me some guidance on how to bring `em back from the dead?
-Adam
Desired End State: I am NOT looking for a drag racer, or even a car that idles like one. I want the car to make as much power as possible in a package that idles and sounds stock, gets decent gas mileage and can go another 100K miles if needed. My primary performance goal is a car that is civil as a stocker around town, can be a daily driver commuter in stop and go traffic, and even make long hauls down to the coast. First and foremost I want to do this repair and not have to worry about tuning the car, and mothering it with maintenance. The only competition it might see again at my hands would be the occasional Autocross or Mountain run.
Existing Mods Prior to the failure the car was making 330 RWHP with all the usual bolt ons and full exhaust. It has on it right now. Mac full length headers with cats, B&B Tri Flow Exhaust, Whisper lid and MAF, HPP with no power tuning added, 3.73 gears, Raptor Ram air Hood and WS6 air box. (Lots of other mods, but those are the ones that affect power).
Existing condition The Tranny is a loss, the synchros are dead and the tranny never fully recovered from the abuse of beta testing every clutch out there back in 1998. The motor has a blown wrist pin and requires a rebuild. The rest of the motor should be in a condition you'd expect a 100K mile motor to be in.
Myself and my friends have had nothing but bad experiences with local engine builders, so I'm tempted to just get the SLP 402 Short Block and bolt on my stocker heads and cam. My only concern there is having to budget extra for front suspension mods to accommodate the extra 100 pounds in weight from the iron motor. I would much prefer sticking with the Aluminum block, but would hate to have to find a decent local builder.
Budget: So I have $4,500 for parts and $1,500 for labor. Anything more and I'll just put the TA up for sale as is. Maybe even remove all the bolt ons and sell it as a stock car in need of a drivetrain.
So now is a chance to give "Vader" a second life, anyone want to help give me some guidance on how to bring `em back from the dead?
-Adam
08-28-2004, 04:47 PM
#2
I would just get a 346 short block from TSP for $2500. That way you can stay with aluminum, keep your gas mileage, you won't have to retune for the larger displacement, and you can keep using your nitrous with plenty of money left over. Your heads weren't hurt when the wrist pin broke?
I am a believer in waiting to upgrade stuff until it breaks to keep it from becoming a money pit. I don't like the idea of buying a new car, but that's just cause i don't have tons of money.
I am a believer in waiting to upgrade stuff until it breaks to keep it from becoming a money pit. I don't like the idea of buying a new car, but that's just cause i don't have tons of money.
08-28-2004, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by P Mack
I would just get a 346 short block from TSP for $2500. That way you can stay with aluminum, keep your gas mileage, you won't have to retune for the larger displacement, and you can keep using your nitrous with plenty of money left over. Your heads weren't hurt when the wrist pin broke?
I am a believer in waiting to upgrade stuff until it breaks to keep it from becoming a money pit. I don't like the idea of buying a new car, but that's just cause i don't have tons of money.
I am a believer in waiting to upgrade stuff until it breaks to keep it from becoming a money pit. I don't like the idea of buying a new car, but that's just cause i don't have tons of money.
08-28-2004, 07:34 PM
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IMO, don't bother with the TA, you sound like someone who can understand when I say they are nothing but cheap *** hp [/blasphemy] 
After you demod and sell both the car and mods, you'll add to your 6k and have enough for a sizable down payment on a 6.0L GTO. Think of it, passengers don't have to ball up in the fetal position to join you, nor contort like a gymnast to slide into shotgun...teenagers won't ogle your assets as you drive by the beach
, and lowly pig mustangs won't think twice when they see a car with such obvious blandness assuming it would be an easy score. Most important: you can use a true dual exhaust without having a degree in pipe bending and exhaust welding. How can you go wrong you see. 
Of course opinions are like...
After you demod and sell both the car and mods, you'll add to your 6k and have enough for a sizable down payment on a 6.0L GTO. Think of it, passengers don't have to ball up in the fetal position to join you, nor contort like a gymnast to slide into shotgun...teenagers won't ogle your assets as you drive by the beach
, and lowly pig mustangs won't think twice when they see a car with such obvious blandness assuming it would be an easy score. Most important: you can use a true dual exhaust without having a degree in pipe bending and exhaust welding. How can you go wrong you see. Of course opinions are like...
08-28-2004, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Carvinta
IMO, don't bother with the TA, you sound like someone who can understand when I say they are nothing but cheap *** hp [/blasphemy]
After you demod and sell both the car and mods, you'll add to your 6k and have enough for a sizable down payment on a 6.0L GTO. Think of it, passengers don't have to ball up in the fetal position to join you, nor contort like a gymnast to slide into shotgun...teenagers won't ogle your assets as you drive by the beach, and lowly pig mustangs won't think twice when they see a car with such obvious blandness assuming it would be an easy score. Most important: you can use a true dual exhaust without having a degree in pipe bending and exhaust welding. How can you go wrong you see. Of course opinions are like...
After you demod and sell both the car and mods, you'll add to your 6k and have enough for a sizable down payment on a 6.0L GTO. Think of it, passengers don't have to ball up in the fetal position to join you, nor contort like a gymnast to slide into shotgun...teenagers won't ogle your assets as you drive by the beach
, and lowly pig mustangs won't think twice when they see a car with such obvious blandness assuming it would be an easy score. Most important: you can use a true dual exhaust without having a degree in pipe bending and exhaust welding. How can you go wrong you see. Of course opinions are like...Anyhow so I need to do soemthing to get the TA operational again, and cost wise it looks like it's a wash between fixing it to stock vs. Throwing in an SLP Short Block.... but then there is that whole iron block thing...ugh....
