V8er

iTrader: (2)

So what is the final word about replacing the stock rod bolts with ARPs? I know it is a good upgrade but I've read many posts about the bearing clearance not being correct after the ARP install. Is this fact or fiction?

I plan to install the ARPs while my engine is on the stand and don't want any problems down the road. What do I need to do to make sure everything is 100% perfect? Obviously I need to follow the torque-3-times procedure that ARP dictates, but what else?

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

I believe it was exchange at your on risk and use Katech LS1 rod bolt upgrade to minimize the clearance issues due to them being more dimensionally similiar to the stock bolt.

guadofreak

iTrader: (1)

I recently did my ARP's..not the more expensive PRO ones but the $60 ish ones. tq'd to 45 lbs or whatever it was per their instructions. I called ARP they said 4 or 5 times was fine also to strech them out.

Since then my car has repeatedly seen high RPM's include a few track passes this weeekend. I think the harder PRO's are the ones deflecting the rods clearances IMO

V8er

iTrader: (2)

I don't know much about the Katech product, are they the bolt of choice for the LS1? What makes them better than the ARPs?

What exactly is the issue with changing the bolts and what can be done to eliminate the associated risks?

AnthonyR

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/214570-arp-rod-bolts-caused-no-big-end-rod-distortion.html

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

I don't think they are better, just more dimensionally like stock.

I believe the ARP Pro's are a little longer, but that is from memory.

BuckeyeROC

iTrader: (7)

ARP Pro's here. Numerous trips to 7200 rpm and no problems so far.